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Old 03-15-2013, 01:05 PM   #61
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khale View Post
Anyone had any luck with Permatex nickel based anti-seize for the header nuts? I've read that you want a copper/nickel base anti-seize to withstand the high temps.
Used to use it. Ran low, Went with a Graphite based (By Felpro I believe). Seems to work well.


http://www.newmantools.com/felpro/felpro.htm
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Old 03-15-2013, 01:30 PM   #62
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Do any of you have advice on a good compression tester kit? I'm eyeballing this one right now:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-me...x=0&isremote=0
I'm using a KAL equip 2506, FWIW. I like the quick disconnects and the fact that it comes will a bunch of parts to maintain itself (o-rings and valves). The hoses have the same fittings as my air compressor and removable valves so I can do leak downs with it. used to use a simpler one but I seem to be working on a lot of small engines these days and so I could justify the cost.

http://www.amazon.com/Kal-Tools-2506.../dp/B000I9ROQQ

http://www.actron.com/media/usermanu...it_MNL_Eng.pdf
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Old 03-15-2013, 01:55 PM   #63
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Do any of you have advice on a good compression tester kit? I'm eyeballing this one right now:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-me...x=0&isremote=0
That looks like a real good deal. I got mine from Summit Racing. The gauge itself is good but the hoses were crap. I ended up getting hoses off the Snap On truck. They work.
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Old 03-17-2013, 09:09 AM   #64
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So I'm clear, the pistons arrows, Vorn (left and right) should be facing towards the front of the engine (timing cover)? Anything I should know about putting the gudgeon pins back in place? I see some markings on one end of the pin, is there a specific orientation?
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Old 03-17-2013, 09:24 AM   #65
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Wrist pins or gudgeon pins go in either way. You should have the plain wire circlips that go in both sides of the piston. They can be tricky to get into their grooves. I start one end and push in the other with some kind of a wooden or plastic stick. You can almost get them in with finger tips. It is important to make sure the circlips are fully seated in their grooves. With a small enough probe to grab the end of each circlip spin it a small amount on the groove this is to prove it is fully seated. The operation is actually called "proofing". The clips are proved. If not fully seated the clips will come out in operation destroying many expensive engine parts.

edit;
I said "grab" but what I meant was the end of the circlip is pushed. Just enough so that it is shown to be in the groove. If not in the groove it will either not move or pop out completely.
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Old 03-17-2013, 09:37 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by disston View Post
Wrist pins or gudgeon pins go in either way. You should have the plain wire circlips that go in both sides of the piston. They can be tricky to get into their grooves. I start one end and push in the other with some kind of a wooden or plastic stick. You can almost get them in with finger tips. It is important to make sure the circlips are fully seated in their grooves. With a small enough probe to grab the end of each circlip spin it a small amount on the groove this is to prove it is fully seated. The operation is actually called "proofing". The clips are proved. If not fully seated the clips will come out in operation destroying many expensive engine parts.
Thanks disston, and to answer my first question, the arrow on the piston should face the front of the bike on both left and right side?
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Old 03-17-2013, 09:47 AM   #67
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Make sure you catch the edit I posted about proofing the circlips. I seem to hammer on this point more than anybody else around here. They have all mostly seen the same thing happen, that is the failure of the circlip because it was not fully installed. It happened to a good friend of mine two Summers ago and he had to have the entire lower end of the engine rebuilt. Not only did the engine "grenade" (a term we never like to use but is so descriptive) but he rode it home on one cylinder, insuring that the metal pieces were distributed all through out the engine case.
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Old 03-17-2013, 10:27 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by disston View Post
Make sure you catch the edit I posted about proofing the circlips. I seem to hammer on this point more than anybody else around here. They have all mostly seen the same thing happen, that is the failure of the circlip because it was not fully installed. It happened to a good friend of mine two Summers ago and he had to have the entire lower end of the engine rebuilt. Not only did the engine "grenade" (a term we never like to use but is so descriptive) but he rode it home on one cylinder, insuring that the metal pieces were distributed all through out the engine case.
Yes, both circilps are proved and flush in the groove inside the piston.
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Old 03-17-2013, 12:01 PM   #69
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http://dictionary.reverso.net/german-english/vorn
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Old 03-19-2013, 06:45 AM   #70
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Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
Used to use it. Ran low, Went with a Graphite based (By Felpro I believe). Seems to work well.


http://www.newmantools.com/felpro/felpro.htm
Ran low? haha. It's a TON of anti-seize. Either you have a lot of bikes, are a mechanic or are a nut about keeping your exhaust nut threads coated with the stuff.
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:14 AM   #71
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Also suspect your rocker assemblies. if these are bad your valve adjustments won't last very long. just put it together and if you have a problem deal with it later. You don't have to tear the whole thing down again and you want to update to the needle bearing assemblies anyway.

Always replace the pushrod tube seals. You need to own a pushrod tube seal drift in any event. (you give 'em a smack when, not if, they leak). It's a BMW special tool but like the exhaust nut wrench, not expensive. Theoretically you can make one but hardly worth it unless you are extremely poor and the real deal is nicely made (and hardened). The third tool you need is one big ass pair of channel lock pliers. Cheap ones are fine. You use these to compress the rocker arm support blocks when you torque the head bolts and also at retorque/valve setting time. They need to open up with jaws near parallel to the width of your rocker assemblies---end to end. Measure and go shopping. You may not find them this big in hecho en China. Then just break down for real channelLock brand. It is worth having the best clicker type torque wrench you can afford. Beam types will do you but there are too many places where they really suck (oil pan bolts).
Plaka - Where can a purchase a pushrod tube seal drift?
Can you elaborate a little more on compressing the rocker arm support blocks to torque down the head bolts? Does this technique just keep the rocker arms perfectly vertical? Do you recommend a light tightening of the head bolts (11 ft/lb), then bring it up to 25 ft/lb for the 2nd adjustment?
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:18 AM   #72
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I'm almost finished re-assembling the top end. I have new stainless steel headers to install. Is there anything I should know about handling new headers? I know that I should keep hand/finger oils off the headers, and use rubbing alcohol to wipe off any oil smudges before they get hot. Is it OK to wear latex gloves when installing the SS headers?
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:29 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by khale View Post
I'm almost finished re-assembling the top end. I have new stainless steel headers to install. Is there anything I should know about handling new headers? I know that I should keep hand/finger oils off the headers, and use rubbing alcohol to wipe off any oil smudges before they get hot. Is it OK to wear latex gloves when installing the SS headers?
Don't sweat it, just clean them off before you start up the engine. the pipes will go a bit brown anyway, because thats what happens with SS headers and silencers. I clean off the brown with acidic alloy wheel cleaner and polish with solvol once a year. works a treat.
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Old 03-19-2013, 10:57 AM   #74
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khale,

Please stop calling your bike an R75, in general. Sometimes would be OK but most of the time it is an R75/5 and it maters. The 750cc engines were in production in Airheads from /5 through /7. There are many R75es. There is even one that is called the R75 that was made during WWII. I'm not trying to pick on you but I've decided to start yelling at all the new guys that are having trouble with this idea. And so I have made you an example, Please forgive me, if you can't then do it anyways.

You may find more info on the subject of pushrod tube seals and their adjustment on Snowbum's site. Since you have a /5 then collars on the push rod tubes should be moveable. And yes there is a tool for adjusting this collar. It should be understood that the tool is for adjusting /5 pushrod tube collars only, when they are the original type of moveable collars. Beware that somebody may have installed later model collars that are not moveable so check to see which you have.

The tool is available at Cycle Works and a few other places;

http://cycleworks.net/

They have 2 drifts available for Airheads. #1 is for installing the push rod tubes and #2 is for adjusting the collars when they are moveable.

There are many, many tools needed that come from this place. I have bunches of them. They all work.
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Old 03-19-2013, 11:03 AM   #75
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khale,

Please stop calling your bike an R75, in general. Sometimes would be OK but most of the time it is an R75/5 and it maters. The 750cc engines were in production in Airheads from /5 through /7. There are many R75es. There is even one that is called the R75 that was made during WWII. I'm not trying to pick on you but I've decided to start yelling at all the new guys that are having trouble with this idea. And so I have made you an example, Please forgive me, if you can't then do it anyways.

You may find more info on the subject of pushrod tube seals and their adjustment on Snowbum's site. Since you have a /5 then collars on the push rod tubes should be moveable. And yes there is a tool for adjusting this collar. It should be understood that the tool is for adjusting /5 pushrod tube collars only, when they are the original type of moveable collars. Beware that somebody may have installed later model collars that are not moveable so check to see which you have.

The tool is available at Cycle Works and a few other places;

http://cycleworks.net/

They have 2 drifts available for Airheads. #1 is for installing the push rod tubes and #2 is for adjusting the collars when they are moveable.

There are many, many tools needed that come from this place. I have bunches of them. They all work.
Noted. I'll call it a R75/5 or /5, for all intensive purposes.
Any advice on my original question regarding rocker arm blocks/clamps?
I'm going to read through this, as it appears to be good literature http://largiader.com/tech/rockers/

"Setting the rocker end play required pressing the two blocks together until the correct clearance exists (once you replace the original wave washer with flat washer 11 33 1 257 825). For all pre-85 rockers, the specified clearance is essentially zero; free movement without noticeable end play."

So essentially, I'm holding the rocker blocks together with a clamp to prevent any free play of the shaft, then tightening the head bolts. Is this correct?
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