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Old 03-20-2013, 05:28 AM   #31
gravityisnotmyfriend OP
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Location: ((kg*m)/s^2), IA, USA
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I was all excited to get my bike put back together last night. Had a couple of hours to spare and thought I could get it all done. First up? Valve lash. Something I've done a dozen times, and it went smooth. So, I put the rocker covers back on and then, it was time to put on the tank, seat, and all the plastics. But, before I did, I thought maybe I oughta hook up my throttle cable to my handlebar grip.

Good thing I did. While doing so, I found out that my throttle cable is fraying and hanging up in the sheath. I'm not sure why I decided to do that before putting the tank on, but I'm darn glad I did - or I would have been taking everything right back off!

Well, what else could I do?

I did drive the new sprocket shaft seal on. That went without a hitch. I do need to remember to tighten that sprocket nut down, though. I took it off by holding the back brake too keep the sprocket from turning. But, I've got to put the chain back on - after I put the back wheel back on - after I mount my new tire.

So, I'm making progress, but I'm losing ground too. Seems like I'm leaving the bike in a more disassembled state every night. I should have had it looking like a motorcycle again, but instead it looks pretty much the same - just without a back wheel or throttle cable!













Here's the list. Plain black is yet to be addressed. Green is repairs in progress. Yellow is done.

Rear tire - mount a meatier off road tire to replace the 80/20 street tire

Throttle cable - shot, needs replaced

Clutch – adjust



Spark plug – New one will go in after checking valve lash.

Turnsignals – Needs a new flasher relay





Sprocket Shaft Seal Leaks - seal installed

Valves - lash set

Instrument lights – bulbs replaced

Waterpump – rebuilt.

Headlight – flickers
Just a loose connection.


Tail light – doesn’t work
Handlebar wiring was redone - poorly


Parking light – doesn’t work
Parking light deosn't exist. Need to buy a replacement.


Rear shock – shot
Replaced


Carbs – jetted too fat
New jets ordered. 195-170MJ; 52-45 idle jet.


Seat – I hate the white seat
Painted with vinyl interior paint. Not lasting very well.


Luggage – none
Luggage rack built. Top box acquired - but I need to mount it.


Handlebars – too low
Rotated back too far. Moved them forward and I think It'll work


Steering - spooky at highway speeds.
Steering stem had too much slack. Tightened her up.
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Old 03-25-2013, 05:20 AM   #32
gravityisnotmyfriend OP
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And, of course, when I say the text is plain black - I mean black in the post box. It's whitish gray text obviously. Anyway, the project is stalled until I can get my throttle cable. But, there was the issue of the turnsignals.


The flasher relay box has a couple of cracks in it. No idea how that happened, but the signals did flash occasionally. But, it's just a little circuit board in a box. Flasher relays for cars are around $15. I'll just grab a new one. I checked out the parts fiche, looked up the part number...

It was over $100.

Now, in the state of IA, the rules are that if you have turnsignals on your bike they have to work. But, you don't have to have turn signals. So, for $120, I'm thinking I'll just pull the damns things off and call it good. But, I figured I'd open up the flasher relay and have a look to see if I could fix it myself. What do I got to lose?

So, I popped the case off the board and here is what I see:



The long oval is around a section of conductor that seems to have become de-tinned. The more circlish oval is around an obviously bad solder joint. This looks promising! So, I get out my tools and put some heat and fresh solder to it:



I should have taken another picture after I cleaned up the flux. But, I snapped the cover back on the put it on the bike.

Works perfectly. The signals signaled every time. I couldn't get them to not. Perfect! One more thing off the list.

The sad thing is that if the relay had been cheaper - I wouldn't have bothered. I woulda just thrown this one in the land fill and paid for a new one. I'm glad I took the time to inspect it.







Here's the list. Plain white is yet to be addressed. Green is repairs in progress. Yellow is done.

Rear tire - mount a meatier off road tire to replace the 80/20 street tire

Throttle cable - shot, needs replaced

Clutch – adjust



Spark plug – New one will go in after checking valve lash.







Turnsignals – bad solder joint resoldered

Sprocket Shaft Seal Leaks - seal installed

Valves - lash set

Instrument lights – bulbs replaced

Waterpump – rebuilt.

Headlight – flickers
Just a loose connection.


Tail light – doesn’t work
Handlebar wiring was redone - poorly


Parking light – doesn’t work
Parking light deosn't exist. Need to buy a replacement.


Rear shock – shot
Replaced


Carbs – jetted too fat
New jets ordered. 195-170MJ; 52-45 idle jet.


Seat – I hate the white seat
Painted with vinyl interior paint. Not lasting very well.


Luggage – none
Luggage rack built. Top box acquired - but I need to mount it.


Handlebars – too low
Rotated back too far. Moved them forward and I think It'll work


[COLOR="yellow"]Steering - spooky at highway speeds.
Steering stem had too much slack. Tightened her up.
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Old 04-02-2013, 05:56 AM   #33
gravityisnotmyfriend OP
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So, I got my new throttle cable. I was hoping it would be everything from the grip to carb. But, there's a short piece of tubing on the carb end that needs to be replaced. I'm pretty sure that was the piece that wore through and caused the cable to fray in the first place.

I need #60:


But, it'll be $30 to order and it'll be another 2 weeks to get it.

It's a good thing I've got other bikes to ride, cause the weather is threatening to turn nice and this bike may never leave the garage at this rate!
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:30 AM   #34
Boon Booni
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gravityisnotmyfriend View Post

Love it when the fix is that easy.

What about the line at the top that is also de-tinned?
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:22 AM   #35
gravityisnotmyfriend OP
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I noticed that one too - after I uploaded the pics. I honestly don't think the de-tinned paths had anything to do with the problem. I'd bet that it was all do to the one bad solder joint. I did a continuity test of the one path I did fix. There was no appreciable difference before or after re-soldering it.

I'm just glad that my winkers wink and it didn't' cost be $120 to make that happen!
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Old 04-03-2013, 06:14 AM   #36
gravityisnotmyfriend OP
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Location: ((kg*m)/s^2), IA, USA
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So, I just couldn't wait 2 weeks on another part. It's just a peice of tubing, right? May as well fab something up.

Here's why I'm replacing it:


The old tube appears to be copper and is completely worn through. I'm sure that's what caused my cable to start fraying.

So, I found a piece of thickwalled 5/8" stainless tubing:


Grabbed my handy dandy tube bender:


And put in a radius:


Then, I threaded the end to match the cable end and put her together:


And, on the bike:



The throttle is now silky smooth, and no feeling of anything dragging. That last picture makes it look like the tube is bent a bit too much. I didn't notice that on the bike - only looking at the picture.

I'll have to take a close look at it before I put the tank on. But, I've got plenty of tubing. If I have to build a new one, it's no big deal.

So, I took a $5 piece of tubing and about 30 minutes and saved myself $30 and a two week wait.

I also got the new tire on the wheel and the wheel back on the bike. With any luck, I'll be driving this bad boy this weekend.
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Old 04-03-2013, 09:10 PM   #37
tileman
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gotta ask, where did you get the bender?
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Old 04-04-2013, 05:24 AM   #38
gravityisnotmyfriend OP
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Location: ((kg*m)/s^2), IA, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tileman View Post
gotta ask, where did you get the bender?
Same place I get my lathe, plasma cutter, mill, and any other tool that I don't use enough to justify the cost.

The maintenance shop at work! It's a great perk of the job - though I'm sure that doesn't help you out at all.



Made good progress last night despite getting a late start. Got the the tank back on and while there isn't much clearance between that throttle tube and the bottom of the tank, there is clearance. The throttle doesn't bind at all, so that's good enough for me! got the seat and all the plastics on, just gotta wrap up a few things.

Still gotta figure out how to adjust the clutch. It was slipping on me a little bit - but it seems to me it started doing that after my last oil change. So, I'll adjust the clutch first. If that doesn't take care of it, I'll wade through the billions of oil posts on this site and see if I can find whats good for the bike and change it out. I really hope I don't have to replace the actual clutch.
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Old 04-05-2013, 07:03 AM   #39
gravityisnotmyfriend OP
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With any luck, I'll be riding the old girl tomorrow. I seem to have lost a couple of bolts for the rear of my luggage rack, but I'll pick up those after work, along with a gallon of fresh anitfreeze and see if she'll run.

The clutch appears to be a simple fix. Looks like the arm spun on the shaft a little bit. I was able to fully slack the cable at the handle bar perch, then rotate the arm on the shaft, then tighten the perch a little bit. I guess I'll find out tomorrow if it doesn't rain all day.
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Old 04-05-2013, 05:25 PM   #40
gravityisnotmyfriend OP
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Or, maybe I'll ride her today! Got home from work and had a sneaking suspicion I had a full jug of 50/50 antifreeze in the shed. Sure enough. So I topped of the KTM and tightened down the remaining bolts and fasteners.

Then the moment of truth - would she start?

Turn the gas on, turn the key on, check the kill switch - it says "run", pull the choke and go through the ole 4T kick routine and kick and kick and kick and kick.

Check the kill switch - it says run

Pull the decomp and clear out the cylinder.

and kickand kick and kick and kick and kick and kick and kick and kick and kick and kick and kick and kick

Check the kill switch - it says run. Make sure the key is on. Try the hot start button

kick kick

Try half choke

kick kick.

Nothing. Not a pop. Not a fire, not a noise. I smell gas, so I know it's getting it. I check the spark plug wire, it's on. I check the kill switch - it says run.

It says run WITH A FUCKING ARROW UNDER IT!!!

It means slide the switch that way for it to fucking run. I knew this. I rode the bike all last summer. I dont' know why it didn't occur to me until 15 minutes of kicking the beast.

So I slide the swtich, and kick, and Pop!

I set the choke to half, and kick, and Pop, pa-POP! Pa PUPUPUPUPUPUPUP. Hurray! my bike runs and I'm an idiot!

So, I threw on the helmet and gloves and took her for a short spin. It took a little adjustment on the perch, but the clutch is working perfectly. No slipping at all. I really forgot how much I like this bike! It lofts the front soooo easily. And its so much more predictable with a good shock under the rear end.

But, there is a hesitation when go WOT. I'm guessing I've gone too lean on the main jet as I dropped from a 190 to a 170. I'll put the 190 back in this evening to see if it takes care of the problem. Then, I'll either leave it as is or maybe drop to a 180. Or, maybe I'll put the 170 in and raise the needle a click or two. It'll just take a bit of tweaking, but everything seems to be working like it should. No leaks on the sprocket shaft and no more smell of antifreeze when she's running. I'll post up some pics once I get her a much needed bath.
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Old 04-06-2013, 05:42 AM   #41
Young-Gun
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Location: Brisbane, AUS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gravityisnotmyfriend View Post
I set the choke to half, and kick, and Pop, pa-POP! Pa PUPUPUPUPUPUPUP. Hurray! my bike runs and I'm an idiot!


Quote:
Once I get her a much needed bath.
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Old 04-08-2013, 05:59 AM   #42
gravityisnotmyfriend OP
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Well, the bike is done. I had a couple of hours free on Saturday. I was going to clean her up, but it was just too nice of a day. I had to ride! I went on a short little 30 mile loop and found that if I pushed her hard, the temp light would come on. But, if I took it easy it'd eventually go back off. So, I cut my ride short and headed home. Once I let the bike cool off, I checked the coolant level. I guess I left more air in the system than I thought as it was pretty low. So, I topped her off and headed out again. Put about 50 miles on exploring backroads. Everything worked like it should.

The ride is oh so nice with the new shock. And riding at highway speeds is perfectly comfortable now that I've got the slack out of the steering stem. I put the Coleman ATV seat pad on her and it pretty much eliminated the vibrations in my seat. Still get a little in my feet, but it's definitely tolerable.

I didn't take any pictures - I'd say it's because I didn't wash the bike, but the truth is I forgot my camera. I did try mounting my GoPro to the handlebars. It worked - but it picks up a lot of vibration.
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:14 PM   #43
bmwktmbill
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Congrads!

bill
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The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
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Old 04-16-2013, 04:33 PM   #44
gravityisnotmyfriend OP
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The project appears to be never ending! After I got back from my last ride, I noticed my low beams weren't working. So, I checked my high beams and they did. So, I got a new bulb and installed it. Just went for a ride a few minutes ago and when I got back, my low beam was burned out again. So, I put it on my high beam again and it worked. On a hunch, I blipped the throttle. The high beam went bright white very briefly and blew out. That's when I noticed that all of the indicator lights- the ones that I had a bitch of a time sourcing - were also burned out.

Well, fuck. That's a high cost - usage ratio. So in addition to replacing all the brand new bulbs I just replaced, I'm also looking at replacing the voltage regulator and/or the capacitor. The service manual indicates that the voltage regulator won't work without the capacitor working. I'm not sure how that's possible as I though that the capacitor worked to just filter out spikes in the voltage. Regardless, I'm going to check it.

I've done a bit of searching, but have only found threads asking how big of lights they can put on these bikes. Anyone know what the VAC and Amps the alternator puts out? I've got a spare regulator/rectifier that will regulate 100 volts AC and 100 amps down to 12 VDC - well it actually stops it at around 13.8-14.1VDC, but as long as the alternator output isn't too high, I should be able to use it. It's a modern solid state unit, I'm not sure if it's any better than what was available in '94 or not - but the original regulator is no longer available from KTM.

gravityisnotmyfriend screwed with this post 04-16-2013 at 05:36 PM
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Old 04-29-2013, 09:51 AM   #45
gravityisnotmyfriend OP
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Electrical... HELP!

So, I'm baffled here. My best guess is that the voltage regulator has already gone out on this bike once, and that the one that is now bad is not the original.

I"ve looked at the wiring diagrams and none seem to be exactly like mine. There's 5 wires going in/out of the regulator. All the wiring diagrams I've looked at have 4 wires on the regulator - 2 AC in, 1 DC out and a ground. There is one case where the regulator has 5 wires, but, in that case, there is a diode in line between the regulator and capacitor, but that's not the case here as if there were a diode, it would be attached to the outside of the regulator.

Also, the wires coming from the generator look wrong. On the bike side, there's one blue wire going to one terminal in the plug and two yellow wires going to the other terminal. That has two yellow (maybe orange) wires plugged into it without a plug. Sorry about the blurry pic, but you can see the colors:


Here's the one I took off my bike:


Now, to me, the wires look like black(1), yellow(2), red(3), yellow(4), green(5). Of course, I'm red/green colorblind, So I'll call em 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. Wires, 2 & 4 are inputs from the generator. And, they produce 40-60 VAC while the bike running. wire #3 goes to the positive side of the Capacitor, and wire 5 goes to the negative side of the capacitor, as well as being split and grounded to the case of the regulator.


Then there's wire #1. I'm holding it in the index finger of my hand in the previous pic. No idea where that one goes or what it does. It's not a ground. And, if it was supposed to be, it's not grounded any more.

What I do know is that I can put 12VDC to the positive and negative terminals on the capacitor, and that powers all the lights on the bike.So, I don't think it's another power wire. And, there's no resistance between it and either of the other two generator wires, so I don't think it goes to the generator.

So, here's why I'm baffled. I tried hooking up my other regulator/rectifier. It's brand new, but I guess I've never actually checked to see if it works. But, when I hook it up, I get -2.63 VDC between the power wire and the ground.

Any guesses as to what the #1 wire is or where it's going? How about my weird voltage output? Any guesses there?

I did find a replacement regulator rectifier that is supposed to be a replacement for the discontinued stock item, but I fear I'll just end up dropping $150 on another part to find out it doesn't fix the problem.

Also, what exactly does the capacitor do? I'm assuming it's just a filter to keep the lights from flickering based on the RPM of the bike. What would happen if it were removed? Can the electrical system work without it? Any reason not to just eliminate it? I tried my new regulator wire with and without the capacitor - didn't make a difference.
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