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Old 03-02-2013, 08:55 PM   #16
Half Fast
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Hose down the new concrete and apply a mix of 2 parts water to one part muriatic acid. Scrub it with an acid brush and etch the "new" film from the surface. Rinse with a hose.

It will help some and mother nature will do the rest over the next year or so.

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Old 03-02-2013, 11:13 PM   #17
BillsR100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adios Pantalones View Post
Coffee. Go get a bunch of cheap azz Maxwell house and brew it up.
I've used dark brewed tea on interior mortar.
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Old 03-03-2013, 12:28 AM   #18
Big Bird 928
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I know someone dropped an automotive battery on my concrete pad and split the case, nice white concrete turned a tanish brown color in that spot only.
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:06 AM   #19
Half Fast
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Originally Posted by Big Bird 928 View Post
I know someone dropped an automotive battery on my concrete pad and split the case, nice white concrete turned a tanish brown color in that spot only.

That's similar to the etch I described above. The cement slurry on new concrete is often too bright next to weathered surfaces. The acid etch removes this layer and exposes the sand in the matrix. This is a kind of accelerated weathering. (The battery acid most likely stained the surface AND etched it)

The muriatic method is permanent, cheap and involves no stain. A 3:1 solution can be used instead of 2:1 for slower etching and more control. Multiple passes will give the desired etch then rinse well to stop the reaction.

MSDS, etc, etc. Gloves, glasses, safety gear. Muriatic is only about $6 bucks a gallon at the hardware store, cut 3:1 you get 4 gallons of acid which is enough to do about 250 s.f.

The only reason I would try this first is because it involves no staining. If you try a stain and get the wrong color you may be worse off.

It will never be a perfect match since the concrete came from different batches at different times. Sand color varies and some grey cements are cool grey while some have a warmer buff tone. Numerous variables.

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