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Old 03-08-2013, 07:29 AM   #1
motor_chris OP
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Instrument Glass Replacement

Would like to know if anyone has found a good source to replace the round glass pieces in the instrument panel that cover the speedometer and tachometer?

Chris
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Old 03-08-2013, 09:44 AM   #2
CurlyMike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motor_chris View Post
Would like to know if anyone has found a good source to replace the round glass pieces in the instrument panel that cover the speedometer and tachometer?

Chris
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Old 03-08-2013, 10:15 AM   #3
Big Bamboo
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Hucky sells them too. Look about 3/4 down this page: http://www.bmwhucky.com/00d.html

Big Bamboo screwed with this post 03-08-2013 at 11:06 AM
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Old 03-08-2013, 10:27 AM   #4
motor_chris OP
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I should have also mentioned it is for a 1977 100/7.

Chris
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Old 03-08-2013, 11:46 AM   #5
driggles
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Originally Posted by motor_chris View Post
I should have also mentioned it is for a 1977 100/7.

Chris
The /7 instrument pod has a one-piece molded plastic cover around both the tach and speedo that has both clear plastic lenses cast (or cemented) to it as a one-piece unit.

Easiest solution is to source a "new" one on ebay, they're quite common but the price varies....seems like some sellers try to retire with the way they set their prices...but you can get lucky if you keep your eyes peeled.

If you get one on Ebay ask the seller about the condition of the screw bosses on the back....they are prone to splitting and when they do the mounting screws just keep turning without tightening up.

I don't think the one Hucky has is for the /7, you'd prolly have to do some fancy fab work to install it in the stock housing and have it look good (and still be able to fit the rubber visor over them).

If you've never taken one apart you'd be surprised how crappy the lens quality is.....when you look thru it, anything further than 6" away is really blurry.

Wirespokes should be able to dispense further advice.
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Old 03-08-2013, 12:21 PM   #6
boxerboy81
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One problem that goes with replacing the glass is the aluminium surround gets buggered. You need to be clever to keep it intact.

Then sealing the glass watertight is also important. I'm unsure what the adhesive of choice would be, but a smear of silicone around the outside, to be concealed by the rubber eyebrows is probably a reasonable idea.
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Old 03-08-2013, 02:32 PM   #7
100RT
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Originally Posted by driggles View Post

If you've never taken one apart you'd be surprised how crappy the lens quality is.....when you look thru it, anything further than 6" away is really blurry.
I believe thats the anit-glare doing its job.
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Old 03-08-2013, 04:34 PM   #8
Velocipede
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Wirespokes.
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Old 03-08-2013, 11:07 PM   #9
Wirespokes
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The lenses for the plastic pods are pretty much the same until the late 80s when they changed from glass to plastic.

The glass is etched on the outside (anti glare), and the plastic ones have some sort of film on both sides that probably is meant to handle both glare and scratching. I like the glass much better.

I wonder if that lens from Hucky is the european thickness or american? The lenses I have made look exactly like original, but are slightly thicker - just enough that the aluminum retainer ring won't work. So you have to come up with solutions to thin things down a little.

And boxerboy81 makes a good point about ensuring a good seal - either compress the rubber gasket a little when crimping everything back together or use a bit of silicone.

And it is important to keep the metal ring and seal everything up as original or the eyebrows (glare shields) won't fit right.

None of these pods are available new anymore - so good ones are getting valuable. I've seen them go cheaply now and then, but I've also seen nice ones go for as much as a complete set of gauges in the pod.

Remember, there are three different versions - so if watching for a used one, realize this or you could wind up with the wrong one:

74-77 - brake warning on top
78-80 - brake warning on bottom
81-95 - No brake warning - high beam indicator took its place - moved there from the bottom of the tach.

There are other differences, but other than that, the main pod housings interchange. The mounting bosses and other dimensions are all the same.
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Old 03-09-2013, 06:24 AM   #10
Stan_R80/7
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Wirespokes,

I have a question about an instrument (from ebay): I purchased a pod assembly that has the correct brake warning location for '78-'80 and instruments. However, the housing is slightly different from my original '77 ('78). The ebay housing does not have brass thread inserts and the white interior is flaking as seen in the photo.

The tachometer lens has a divot at ~5800 RPM and may be glass. I would have expected the glass to crack. The seller claimed this instrument was off a '78 R100RS but had the wrong drive ratio information - but he posted a pic of the speedometer which showed the same ratio as mine (w=1244) which prompted the purchase. The instruments appear correct with the tach having the high beam indicator at the bottom. Do you think this is an original housing or something mix-matched over time?

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Old 03-09-2013, 08:45 AM   #11
DaveBall
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Wirespokes,
I used to work as a glazier and have replaced the glass on quite a few speedometers and tachs. The standard glass you find in most shops is just a tad too thick, so using a wet belt sander with fine grit paper (about 400), you can carefully grind down the edge of the glass to make it fit. You have to be careful and do it slowly. Make sure you are using cool to cold water on that belt sander. If the glass gets too hot, you will be holding a lot of small pieces.

I start with a circle of glass that is a wee bit larger than what I need, then do the beveling carefully on the wet sander, on both sides. I do a lot of test fitting, until it fits just right. I can usually make that new lens in less than 10 minutes, from cutting the glass to final fit. Just done it way to many times.
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Old 03-09-2013, 10:12 AM   #12
driggles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wirespokes View Post
I wonder if that lens from Hucky is the european thickness or american? The lenses I have made look exactly like original, but are slightly thicker - just enough that the aluminum retainer ring won't work. So you have to come up with solutions to thin things down a little.
So it's possible to "uncrimp" then "re-crimp" the retainer ring to replace the lens? Or is the ring a one-time-use part? Just curious, hope I never need to find out....
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Old 03-09-2013, 09:45 PM   #13
Wirespokes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stan_R80/7 View Post
The ebay housing does not have brass thread inserts and the white interior is flaking as seen in the photo.

The tachometer lens has a divot at ~5800 RPM and may be glass. I would have expected the glass to crack.

Do you think this is an original housing or something mix-matched over time?
Stan - your housing was replaced at some point, and that's the way the newer ones were made - without the brass inserts, using sheet metal screws to hold it all together. The newer ones also have plastic lenses - which I believe yours has.

driggles - the metal retainers can be uncrimped. It took modifying a dental pick for me to get the job done. My first try at replacing a lens found it cracking just about the time it was done.
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Old 03-10-2013, 05:34 AM   #14
Stan_R80/7
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Wirespokes,

Thanks. I had that suspicion. I think the lenses may be plastic - although the plastic appears to be good quality if so.

I bought the pod for the instruments and both the tach and speedometer match my original '78 instruments. Although the ebay speedometer has nylon threads instead of brass for attaching the cable. My original speedometer was last repaired in 1990 through someone advertising in the MOA magazine. At that time it cost $100.00 or slightly more. The speed is ~ 2mph slow based on GPS calibration up to 80 mph, so I plan to keep it.

One of the reasons to get another instrument (aside from being a bit compulsive) was my speeodmeter needle was bouncing along with the tach being erratic. I cleaned up the tach with some electronic parts cleaner spray which fixed that problem. I replaced the speedometer cable and found if I crimped the speedometer cable - the bouncing was reduced - which is not the way the speedometer should behave. The ebay speedometer had much more needle dampening. So, after some reading about similar needle bounce problems on a CB350 site and a fix, I added some RC 30000Cp differential silicon oil to the speedometer needle cup. That seems to have fixed my needle bounce problem.
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Old 03-10-2013, 07:57 AM   #15
kantuckid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveBall View Post
Wirespokes,
I used to work as a glazier and have replaced the glass on quite a few speedometers and tachs. The standard glass you find in most shops is just a tad too thick, so using a wet belt sander with fine grit paper (about 400), you can carefully grind down the edge of the glass to make it fit. You have to be careful and do it slowly. Make sure you are using cool to cold water on that belt sander. If the glass gets too hot, you will be holding a lot of small pieces.

I start with a circle of glass that is a wee bit larger than what I need, then do the beveling carefully on the wet sander, on both sides. I do a lot of test fitting, until it fits just right. I can usually make that new lens in less than 10 minutes, from cutting the glass to final fit. Just done it way to many times.
Given that Wirespokes is getting rich (?) from curled needles and bad speedo faces,etc., I've wondered if it would be logical/possible to use UV glass in an airhead instrument? Also, how long will the bikes of today last in that spot with their plastic faced pods?
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