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Old 03-03-2013, 03:14 PM   #16
More_Miles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul_Rochdale View Post
But why? Out of curiousity? They will be almost certainly be seized so he's got months or years to read up about it and think of how he's going to get around it. It's ESSENTIAL he get's the correct spanner from somewhere like Motorworks. Even if it's seized and the 'nuts' have to be chiselled off, the spanner will be useful later. Of my two Boxers, I've cut the nuts of one of them. But only because I had to remove the exhaust.
Here's my thinking. Either the exhaust nuts are seized or they aren't. If they are, as long as you are gentle (i.e. not ham fisted, get a bigger cheater bar, etc) then no harm, no foul. And you KNOW they are seized and can plan on dealing with it accordingly in due time. If they aren't seized, you can get them lubed up and put back right as rain, and you KNOW they aren't seized. Then there is the third alternative, they aren't seized today, but in a couple years when he gets around to trying to remove them, they HAVE seized. An ounce of prevention and all that.

Additionally, perhaps I'm suffering from A.S.S.U.M.E (makes an ASS out of U and ME) but I wouldn't think of trying to loosen these finned nuts without the proper wrench. It was the first, and so far only special tool I bought for my airhead. I don't count the alternator removal tool since I made that one.
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Old 03-03-2013, 04:52 PM   #17
Mikepotter86 OP
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Originally Posted by Paul_Rochdale View Post

I saw the term 'ride-off stand' . In my life I've never sat astride a bike on it's CENTRE-STAND and ridden off. I saw it done during my Police Motorcycle School training and it resulted in an almighty bollocking. Take the bike off it's centre stand and onto it's side stand, sit astride it and bring it to it's upright position then retract the side stand. Standards please!!

Am I misundertanding the function of the Reynolds Ride-Off Stand? Ever try to get a bike off one of these stands on a incline like the one in my garage?

http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/reynolds/reynolds9.jpg
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:08 PM   #18
Plaka
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Originally Posted by Mikepotter86 View Post
Thanks for the support! At this point I am optimistic about the pushrod seal leak. I have run the bike 3 times since starting it originally, and each time the leak seems to have diminished.

I feel very fortunate that the bike has so many great accessories. The ride off stand is great, now that the bike is running, but it sure was a PITA when the bike wasn't running.



The bike came with all the goodies. I will do an installment on accessories, some which require repair and installation, after I finish the brakes and steering.
When not running the bike I block the ride-off stand with my toe and move the bike forward with with the grab handle.

I don't care for the ride-off. I puts both wheels on the ground which is less stable than having the rear wheel up. Also makes it impossible to turn the rear wheel. I can get a piece of 3/4 plywood under the ride-off stand and still lift the bike, but no more. That lets me turn the rear wheel kinda. Still working on solutions.

I refitted a stock stand to my '83 RS and found out why the ride-off was there. BMW screwed up the geometry and putting the bike on the stand is VERY difficult. With saddle tanks it's a flat out No Way Jose. I got it up once, near ruptured something and then put the ride-off stand back on.
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:24 PM   #19
100RT
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I have no experience with the stock 81 center stand. Mine came with the ride off and I really like it. I do slide a piece of 2x4 under each leg when I want to rotate for cleaning or change tires.

The ride off is really nice when I am fully packed for a camping rally and I can climb on with out busting my balls trying to lift it to center.
Turned 64 today, prolly has a lot to do with that!
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:34 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 100RT View Post
I have no experience with the stock 81 center stand. Mine came with the ride off and I really like it. I do slide a piece of 2x4 under each leg when I want to rotate for cleaning or change tires.

The ride off is really nice when I am fully packed for a camping rally and I can climb on with out busting my balls trying to lift it to center.
Turned 64 today, prolly has a lot to do with that!

That's a beauty! Something to aspire to.
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Old 03-03-2013, 06:03 PM   #21
Plaka
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Originally Posted by Mikepotter86 View Post
It will be a long time before I even think of removing the exhaust!
That's why you do the PM on the nuts. The bike is low on miles but long on years. The nuts have likely never been off. So next tech day you clean and lube them (if you have to borrow a wrench). When the day comes you have to take them off, you want them in good shape. If you are doing a fix 'n' flip on the bike then you ignore them.

You will be taking the mufflers off fairly soon so you will have a chance to de-carbon the joints and lube those.

Oil has stuff in it to swell the seals so the fresh oil may be swelling the pushrod tube seals some. Tightening them with the drift is a standard routine you do every so often. Takes 5 sec. per seal and isn't touchy to do. Somebody in the local club likely has a drift.
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Old 03-03-2013, 06:05 PM   #22
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 100RT View Post
I have no experience with the stock 81 center stand. Mine came with the ride off and I really like it. I do slide a piece of 2x4 under each leg when I want to rotate for cleaning or change tires.

The ride off is really nice when I am fully packed for a camping rally and I can climb on with out busting my balls trying to lift it to center.
Turned 64 today, prolly has a lot to do with that!

Do you deploy the stand first and then rock it side to side to get it on the 2x4's?
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Old 03-03-2013, 06:11 PM   #23
Plaka
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Originally Posted by Paul_Rochdale View Post
But why? Out of curiousity? They will be almost certainly be seized so he's got months or years to read up about it and think of how he's going to get around it. It's ESSENTIAL he get's the correct spanner from somewhere like Motorworks. Even if it's seized and the 'nuts' have to be chiselled off, the spanner will be useful later. Of my two Boxers, I've cut the nuts of one of them. But only because I had to remove the exhaust.

What is essential is that once removed and cleaned up, the alloy cylinder head threads are greased with Copaslip and the nuts undone, cleaned up, re-greased and replaced once a year. He'll never have problems in the future.

I saw the term 'ride-off stand' . In my life I've never sat astride a bike on it's CENTRE-STAND and ridden off. I saw it done during my Police Motorcycle School training and it resulted in an almighty bollocking. Take the bike off it's centre stand and onto it's side stand, sit astride it and bring it to it's upright position then retract the side stand. Standards please!!

Different climate here. That's why we immigrated :-) No need to assume they are seized.

The cast head is porous. Some of the oils in the antiseize soak in and leave the stuff a bit dry. Worth refreshing regularly.

The ride-off stand works well. Not your ordinary centerstand. You just sit on the bike and ride away. With a heavy touring load my side stand gets aweful flexy, I don't use it a lot.
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Old 03-03-2013, 06:19 PM   #24
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Great post!

Great post, Mike! Nice photos too!

"recently-converted BMW enthusiast friend/neighbor/coworker"
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Old 03-03-2013, 06:31 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post

Oil has stuff in it to swell the seals so the fresh oil may be swelling the pushrod tube seals some. .
only if BMW has weird oil.

as far as I know the only oil that is formulated to swell seals is "high-mileage" oil for older cars and "snake-oil" after-market additives

deliberately swelling seals essentially accelerates their destruction - its a stop gap measure
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Old 03-03-2013, 06:51 PM   #26
Plaka
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Originally Posted by kiwi_outdoors View Post
only if BMW has weird oil.

as far as I know the only oil that is formulated to swell seals is "high-mileage" oil for older cars and "snake-oil" after-market additives

deliberately swelling seals essentially accelerates their destruction - its a stop gap measure
Snake oil's good...unless you were the snake.

pushrod tube seals are static seals. Swelling is good. On a dynamic seal I agree with you, too much swelling and the seal will be too tight, won't weep enough, will run itself dry and wear more rapidly. I have to check my sources but I believe all oils have some seal swell stuff and the high mileage oil has a lot.

Plaka screwed with this post 03-03-2013 at 09:11 PM
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Old 03-03-2013, 08:09 PM   #27
Lornce
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Congratulations, Mike. You've got a fine machine, there. Unmolested R100RT's are becoming rarer every season. Make your father proud.

Plaka, Good to see you posting again. (He's one to listen to, Mike)
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Old 03-03-2013, 08:26 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by 100RT View Post
Turned 64 today, prolly has a lot to do with that!
OP: Nice bike and a good story. Enjoy!

100RT: Hope you enjoyed your b-day!
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Old 03-03-2013, 08:41 PM   #29
d mc gee
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As Paul(R100RT) mentioned there was a change in the early 80's bikes to brazed push rod tubes. Using a drift can damage the tubes. Also when the time comes to replace the pushrod tube seals there is the issue of getting the tubes back into the head at the proper depth. The correct course of action would be to replace the seals, and at that time also address the exhaust nuts since their removal is part of the process. Needlessly obsessing about the nuts is unwarranted. There is plenty of info on Snowbums website about the very subject. http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/

You seem to be on the right track, get it running, figure out what the bugs are, get them sorted out, and then ride and enjoy your heirloom. Some folks here would have you tear the whole thing down to the smallest assembly and fix or address any issues that have ever went wrong with one of these bikes. Tinkering with things that need fixed as they come up should be an enjoyable and rewarding experience, and also keep you from becoming mechanically overwhelmed.
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Old 03-03-2013, 09:00 PM   #30
100RT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
Do you deploy the stand first and then rock it side to side to get it on the 2x4's?
I have the center stand down then I start with the right side, I tilt the bike then slide a 2x4 under that side then use the lift handle to lift and slide the left side under. To lower I start with the lift handle side. Been doing it for years.
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