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Old 03-04-2013, 05:49 PM   #1
brycekauai OP
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Joined: Mar 2013
Location: Hawaii
Oddometer: 74
Honda Elite 150 1987 Restoration

Hey everyone. Just joined this forum and wanted to share my new project. Got this scooter for free on Craigslist the other day. No title, no keys! Bummer! My friends said it would be too much work to get running, but I hope I'm up to the challenge. I live in Hawaii and rust just eats things away as you can see. The scooter has been sitting for just under 10 years and was in perfect working order up until the owner up and moved. Its got 13k on it and hopefully some life left as well. Body is in decent shape, but some paint would make it look cherry for sure.

Needs -
Battery, Gas tank cleaning, carb cleaning. Fluids changed. Any other suggestions?

Questions -

1.Back tire will not move one bit. I almost got it off today but need another ratchet to complete that part, all the rust has just eaten away all the bolts. The parking brake looks to be disengaged, so is it rusted out on the inside? What part would I need to fix this issue?
2.Is this scooter worth all the work, even considering it was free?

Look forward to your help and comments.

Aloha
Bryce






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Old 03-05-2013, 04:17 AM   #2
scootrboi
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I am really impressed by the rust.
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Old 03-05-2013, 06:19 AM   #3
fullmetalscooter
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dumb to ask but have you taken off the rear brake line ? Even then with this rusted of scooter the brake shoes may be stuck. You might just have to move the tire round and round will tapping it or hitting it to get it to move. Really hope this scooter was nearly free and the engine is not as screw up inside as the outside looks. Remember you can alway go get a home power coating kit for 40 bucks or less and do your wheels up at home. Note make cetrain your wfie doesn't catch you using the stove to do you powder coating in. Lots of you tube videos will show you how. For rested bolts remember the old trick of heating them up and then dumping cold water on them to shock them off. With something as rusted as that I would dump some oil down the spark plug hole just to lube it up before you start it.


As to what it's worth around a grand running or so. Is it worth getting running ? Thats the question . 1) does it turn over at all 2) Does it have compression . You ll find parts cheap for it online. Used wheels 50 bucks or less each. Might even be worth the time of finding a second one for parts.

Also I just noted you ve taken the wheel bolts off the rear brake hub . any reason for doing that?? Unline most scooter the early elite wheel and rear brake hub unbolt from each other but there's no good reason to take them apart. You also I have taken off the rear shock bolts from the side arm because that has to be done to?

Anyone still got the link for the oem elite 150 service manual ?
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fullmetalscooter screwed with this post 03-05-2013 at 06:31 AM
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Old 03-05-2013, 11:10 AM   #4
brycekauai OP
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Well I made a little progress. Got a fresh battery and some of the electrical works. Brake lights, dash lights, and Gauges. But I'm not getting any blinker or Head lights power. Checked the fuses in the dash storage and they are all good, but I'm gonna start cleaning the contacts down by the battery today and do some voltage tests to check if the current is getting around.

I opened the left side case and it still has a strong belt and the drive pulley still spins which means that the engine isn't rusted (I hope!). Anyone have any clue about getting the starter to turn over? Which electrical should I focus on? I think I'm gonna run this thing as a skeleton when I get it running. Saw some others on the forum that look sick!

I took the gas tank off as well, it doesn't need to be attached to get the starter to crank right? Any help is appreciated.

Aloha
Bryce
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Old 03-05-2013, 11:11 AM   #5
brycekauai OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scootrboi View Post
I am really impressed by the rust.
Ya, thats what Hawaii does. Wind an salt air. YOu just have to accept that everything you own will rust eventually. Just run it hard till it does.
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Old 03-05-2013, 11:50 AM   #6
brycekauai OP
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I can't seem to get this part of the back wheel off. Am I not unscrewing something on the brake? I have tried hammering it off and its just not moving, don't wanna keep hitting it and break something. The part with the ridges won't budge, but there is a little play in the seam. The tire won't spin at all on it as well. I even put all my weight on it yesterday with the wheel attached and no luck. Help!


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Old 03-05-2013, 02:43 PM   #7
Warney
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On a good day the rear drum can be a pooch to remove on a 25 year old Honda Scooter. Dissimilar metals and moisture can fuse the drive splines to the hub in a short time. That whole assembly is likely rusted tight and if the drum has a ridge inside (it probably does) you somehow need to back off the adjuster and get the brake shoes to pull in enough for the drum to clear. So there are 2 potential areas that are stuck. Problem appears that in your last picture I can't see the brake cam to the right of the clevis, which should be poking through the backing plate. PB Blaster, Kroil, or Acetone and ATF mixture might work as a penetrant. Old Farmer trick for rusty hubs stuck on a drive spline...apply some heat to the hub, lay some wax on the splines and hopefully some will suck inside and break the rust bond. On a Tractor you can use a bfh, not on the Honda! Not to discourage you from continuing with the project but that rust is a problem.
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Old 03-05-2013, 05:35 PM   #8
JerryH
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Welcome. And be careful. Free may seem to be a good thing. It can also be a nightmare. Several years ago, I was given a 1985 Goldwing LTD (the fuel injected model) because the owner was moving cross country, and had way to much to do to deal with to make it worthwhile trying to sell a bike with so little value. It looked a lot better than that scoot, and not being one to turn down free, I jumped at it. 6 months of frustration and hard work, plus nearly $3000 in parts, I had it running. Most of the work was done in the summer in AZ, in 115 degree temps. Very few new parts were available for it, and in some cases used parts were junk, especially if they were made of plastic or rubber. I used a lot of parts from other motorcycles, car parts, plumbing parts, and had to outright fabricate some of the parts.

But I did learn one thing. The "fix it at all cost" because it was free doesn't always work. You can easily put way more work and money into something than it will ever be worth. If it is worth it to YOU, you still need to be careful. Many times you can buy something in better condition than what you have will ever be for less money than what it will cost you to fix it. Not trying to be negative, but after getting my bike done, I was not happy with what I had considering what I had into it. Whatever you decide to do, best of luck with it.
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Old 03-05-2013, 11:29 PM   #9
brycekauai OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warney View Post
On a good day the rear drum can be a pooch to remove on a 25 year old Honda Scooter. Dissimilar metals and moisture can fuse the drive splines to the hub in a short time. That whole assembly is likely rusted tight and if the drum has a ridge inside (it probably does) you somehow need to back off the adjuster and get the brake shoes to pull in enough for the drum to clear. So there are 2 potential areas that are stuck. Problem appears that in your last picture I can't see the brake cam to the right of the clevis, which should be poking through the backing plate. PB Blaster, Kroil, or Acetone and ATF mixture might work as a penetrant. Old Farmer trick for rusty hubs stuck on a drive spline...apply some heat to the hub, lay some wax on the splines and hopefully some will suck inside and break the rust bond. On a Tractor you can use a bfh, not on the Honda! Not to discourage you from continuing with the project but that rust is a problem.

Yes Warney thank you for your help. I have some good news also! I got the scoot to turn over today, and it has SPARK!! So stoked. Electrical is my worst nightmare so this just made my day that much better. Tomorrow I'm gonna tackle the stuck drum, I'll get some Lubricants in there and start hammering away till I get it off. I watched some videos online and they all pretty much say the same thing. But I for sure agree with you, this is a lot of work to put into something and I'm gambling that there is a reward at the end of this. But hey, were men, this is what we do, WRENCH!

aloha.
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Old 03-06-2013, 01:12 AM   #10
fullmetalscooter
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http://www.motorscooterguide.net/Man...ice_Manual.pdf

Pdf for ch150 sevice manual . Don't think it matter much that it's for the 85-86 elite 150. If that doesn't work try this http://www.hondaspree.net/phpBB3/vie...hp?f=11&t=8558

At worst you might have to heat the drum up and dump water on it to shock it lose. but I don't know if that a good idea . You might be heat up brake pads made out of asptotus base stuff . which kill the lungs if breathed in .. You could try using a strap type wrench to twist it up and down. As for starting it does anyone know if it's got a brake cut out switch like other honda scooters? Eg helix the side stand has to be up and the foot brake in to start.

As to the rust on the case a good can of rust converter might just stop it and then some paint. Anyone know of places where he can order cheap parts online and he will not pay through the nose for shipping? I bought from these guys before . http://www.scrappydogscooters.
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Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body,but rather to skid in sideways totally worn out shouting WHAT A RUSH, WHAT A RIDE.
"Life is a tragedy when seen in close-up, but a comedy in long-shot." Charlie Chaplin

fullmetalscooter screwed with this post 03-06-2013 at 01:40 AM
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:21 AM   #11
brycekauai OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fullmetalscooter View Post
http://www.motorscooterguide.net/Man...ice_Manual.pdf

Pdf for ch150 sevice manual . Don't think it matter much that it's for the 85-86 elite 150. If that doesn't work try this http://www.hondaspree.net/phpBB3/vie...hp?f=11&t=8558

At worst you might have to heat the drum up and dump water on it to shock it lose. but I don't know if that a good idea . You might be heat up brake pads made out of asptotus base stuff . which kill the lungs if breathed in .. You could try using a strap type wrench to twist it up and down. As for starting it does anyone know if it's got a brake cut out switch like other honda scooters? Eg helix the side stand has to be up and the foot brake in to start.

As to the rust on the case a good can of rust converter might just stop it and then some paint. Anyone know of places where he can order cheap parts online and he will not pay through the nose for shipping? I bought from these guys before . http://www.scrappydogscooters.
Thanks for the pointers! I got the back brake drum cover off today finally. It took some hammering but I got the thing to spin by pulling on the clutch and pounded it out slowly.

Once that was off I Was brave enough to try and get the thing started. Cleaned the tank as best I could and put some premium gas in it......and it FIRED UP! Well, it didn't run pretty, but it sure did start! I turned the idle screw up a little to get it to idle without having to give it throttle all the time, let it run for a couple mins and on the 2nd try it started right up. WHen giving it throttle it definatly bogs, but I think a good carb cleaning is in line for tomorrow. Hopefully that will clear it up a little and get the thing purring a little sweeter while I keep working on the rest of it. Such a relief having gotten this far. Thanks for all the help so far everyone. Video of the first time running below!!!

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Old 03-07-2013, 12:24 AM   #12
brycekauai OP
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Also, I'm not seeing the Fan for the Radiator spinning. Any advice on getting that to work?

Mahalo
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:54 AM   #13
Wentwest
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The fan only runs when the thermo switch on the radiator calls for it. Mostly, it never runs. These scooters don't run hot.
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:10 AM   #14
worncog
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I have used this product in a lathe restoration project.

Evapo Rust http://www.evapo-rust.com/

Product says to soak for a few hours, but I ended up soaking some parts for several days to get all or most of the corrosion off. I even left, I mean forgot, a few machine tool bits that should have been thrown in the trash in the solution for over a month and they came out looking like brand new. Best part is you rinse the parts with water after they come out of the soak. lube or paint right after treating. It is not magic, but it sure is close. HTH
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Old 03-10-2013, 01:13 AM   #15
brycekauai OP
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Hey guys just a little update. Ordered new clutch springs and got the rear brake drum off. Now gotta get the Cam out cause its rusted pretty stiff. I also Ordered a new fuel petcock cause I wasn't really getting a good flow coming to the engine, and I cleaned the carb thoroughly as well. Hoping the petcock gets it running a little better then its clutch time. Parts are shipping to Hawaii so it takes a little time. I'll be surfing till then!

Mahalo
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