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Old 03-13-2013, 08:53 AM   #31
KickStart1
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Location: Marshall,Minnesota Scandinavian Prairie Ghetto
Oddometer: 194
Rd 350

Go to Walmart get some Castrol 10W30 or 10W40.I would get some plug's for it as the Coil's are notoriously weak and it's better to get it to fire on new plug's.If you could take some Pic's, with good lighting and get a shot of the area around where the carb meet's the head.Post them here and that should tell (if) you have an R5 or an RD as it's just a guess, right now.There is not a lot of difference Motor wise in the two,other than the Reed Valve and extra Intake Port's that the RD has and R5 did not.The RD has 7 ports and the R5 has 5 port's.But both still go like STINK,that is the truth
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Old 03-13-2013, 09:09 AM   #32
Juanjo_NY OP
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there you go..



already have this oil, is that ok the R5 trany?
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Old 03-13-2013, 11:24 AM   #33
KickStart1
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Rd 350

Yes, you do have an RD350 as I,can see the square rubber,ReedValve intake's. This bike appear's to be in very good shape, as no one has dipped them in real harsh Carb cleaner.Those little rubber boot's on top of the carb's be very careful not to get any carb cleaner etc on them.They will just melt and fall apart DAMHK. I would use the Castrol 10W40 should not be problem as factory was 10W30 and the 40W better in high temp's.I hope this all go's well for you in this RD project,you will like it
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Old 03-13-2013, 11:33 AM   #34
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Also it (appear's) you have,1975 RD350 High top carb's and can not remember,what the difference or advantage was with them as that was the last year of the aircooled RD 350.
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Old 03-13-2013, 11:39 AM   #35
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Transmission oil: Oil that does NOT SAY "Energy Conserving" in the round API donut symbol on the label will be fine.

"Energy Conserving" oils contain additives that can cause clutch slip.
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Old 03-13-2013, 12:39 PM   #36
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thanks again,

the guy who did all the stuff to this bike was an older DR fan, beside of whatever he did with the piston/head, he change every single bolt for stainless steel. Even the bolts under the seat pan!

ok, to finish with the oil questions.
is this good for the transmission?

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Old 03-13-2013, 12:42 PM   #37
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Should be just fine - it doesn't say "Energy Conserving" in the round API symbol.
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Old 03-13-2013, 12:42 PM   #38
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Old 03-13-2013, 01:42 PM   #39
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Welcome to the smokey room , where there is a smoking sign
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Old 03-13-2013, 06:50 PM   #40
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I'll be honest with ya. the two bikes I have called for motor oil in the trannies and I changed them to gear oil and didnt notice any difference in the cold vs warm weather. Gear oil has the consistency of 30w without all the additives they put in motor oil today, which helps a wet clutch keep from slipping. Just my .02.
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Old 03-14-2013, 02:23 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokin2stroke View Post
I'll be honest with ya. the two bikes I have called for motor oil in the trannies and I changed them to gear oil and didnt notice any difference in the cold vs warm weather. Gear oil has the consistency of 30w without all the additives they put in motor oil today, which helps a wet clutch keep from slipping. Just my .02.


That what I have been told from another site which is all 2 strokes
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Old 03-14-2013, 03:05 AM   #42
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One thing you need to remember, particularly first ride.

Those things use a LOT of fuel - so fill up every chance you get until you get a feel for it.

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Old 03-14-2013, 01:50 PM   #43
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ok, I think I'm ready to put this thing in the curb.

I changed the oil in the trany, fill the tank with 2-t oil, put a tea spoon of oil in each cylinder, the spark plugs are NEW.
Filled the tank with 91 octane fuel, and kick the hekk out of this thing and nothing..
Choke, no choke, with and without throttle.. the best I got was a puff.
Also there is gasoline coming out from the middle of the bottom of the engine.

I'm not spending a dime more on this damn thing.. anyone care for a R5 with DR350 heads! $1700 with title, manual, already got the seat and chain.
ALso new drag bar and on the way 4 new spark plugs and 16oz of redline 2t oil.
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Old 03-14-2013, 05:50 PM   #44
RodT
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Big mistake putting straight oil in the plug hole, that's a sure way to oil foul a plug. Is your battery fully charged? this bike requires a fully charged battery or it won't run. Also check the points and maybe file the a little. the R5 had weak coils and everything had to be right. I had to change plugs every 400 miles or it wouldn't run very good.
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Old 03-14-2013, 06:26 PM   #45
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the thing is that I didn't grow up with 2-stroke bikes, I had the curiosity, but definitely not the patient!
I put the battery to charge overnight.. just got pup pup pup pup!, much better than just PUFF!
Fingers Xed that tomorrow with a fully charged battery this thing fire up..

Thanks again for all the help! if the bike start I'll make a video to share it here..
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