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Old 03-06-2013, 08:51 PM   #46
KonaTheHusky OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cognugget View Post
yes, plus, you can run the tight stuff with them, braaaaaaaaaaaaap

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0I_qP...Rg9udw&index=1
I like it! The only one around here in my budget ballpark is a 2001 for $2750, but it sounds like its been sitting for 2 years - which makes me hesitant.

What are some of the common issues to be aware of with these bikes?
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:19 PM   #47
Kommando
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Originally Posted by KonaTheHusky View Post
Sounds like your recommendation would be to go for an E, do the electronics mods correctly/carefully, get skids + protectors, and go from there?

There are a couple E's in the area that might be worth checking out.

I think these are close enough to my criteria to warrant testing, but I'll be wary of on-road handling and long haul comfort/capabilities.

Thanks!
I wouldn't worry about the power or weight difference of an S. You can shave weight and bump power as you grow. The E has a pumper carb most years, a more aggressive cam, and higher compression. An S can be fitted with these, and/or built for even more power. 50+WHP on a dyno is not unheard of. The forks after 2001 were the same on both models. A kicker can be added to either. Both have the same close-ratio 5spd tranny, but the E comes with an offroad-oriented sprocket ratio. The S has a subframe that can handle a load of luggage. The S has factory lighting and wiring, and is already street-legal, even in CA. Neither S nor E is the long-haul slab bike that the dirt-capable DR650SE can be, and the new 400lb Husky TR650 is worth a look too.
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:26 PM   #48
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Buy it for cheap money. Scrub the vegetables out of the carb and ride it. Not much rocket science at work here, if it makes your thang do flippy-floppy. There's not much mystery in a single-cylinder carbed four-stroke, even one that can end you as this one may. If you want to get really weird, you can get into two-smokers and discuss port tuning, the dynamics of pipes and all that cool-ass stuff. I'd take the Berg first.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KonaTheHusky View Post
I like it! The only one around here in my budget ballpark is a 2001 for $2750, but it sounds like its been sitting for 2 years - which makes me hesitant.

What are some of the common issues to be aware of with these bikes?
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Old 03-06-2013, 11:22 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by KonaTheHusky View Post
I like it! The only one around here in my budget ballpark is a 2001 for $2750, but it sounds like its been sitting for 2 years - which makes me hesitant.

What are some of the common issues to be aware of with these bikes?
Mine was also a 2001 for sale for 2750, haha. I payed $2600. This was a low hour bike and already street legal. Not everybody can throw them around; I wouldn't wan't to be much shorter. They are also kickstart only.
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:20 AM   #50
KonaTheHusky OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canuman View Post
Buy it for cheap money. Scrub the vegetables out of the carb and ride it. Not much rocket science at work here, if it makes your thang do flippy-floppy. There's not much mystery in a single-cylinder carbed four-stroke, even one that can end you as this one may. If you want to get really weird, you can get into two-smokers and discuss port tuning, the dynamics of pipes and all that cool-ass stuff. I'd take the Berg first.
Haha. I'll shoot it around the block a bit and see what I think. Unfortunately, the weather service just upgraded the storm that's gunna hit this weekend, so the fun will have to wait.

I won't go the two-stroke route because of the noise and emission pollution, but more power to the folks that can ride 'em hard and make it look easy! Those buggers certainly rip.
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:56 AM   #51
larryboy
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Originally Posted by KonaTheHusky View Post
My DR350 is also lacking an electric start. The DR350 claims 30hp while the DRZ400E claims 48hp; comparable weight. Sounds like you're skeptical that the DRZ would handle any better or pull any harder than the DRZ... sorry if I'm putting words in your mouth.

The E model is a great bike. A buddy had one and we rode a lot together, me on a 2007 TE610 and the E was on par with the 610 in the performance department...identical. Then I got that XR650R and he rode it, then sold the E for an XRR.

One major flaw with any DRZ, they use two piece valves and they're prone to coming off the stem and scattering the engine. I wouldn't shy away from an E or any DRZ, but the first thing I'd do is rip the head off and put one piece stainless valves in it.
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Old 03-09-2013, 07:21 PM   #52
KonaTheHusky OP
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For the XR650R vs the XR650L, how different are the sub-frames? If I'm talking about 40lbs worth of gear on something like the CDT, should be concerned enough to beef up the R frame, or just go with the L? The weight of the L is still in the ballpark of what I'm looking for, but it is apparently 30 lbs heavier than the R... damn... Not super concerned about the electric start options, mostly the luggage capacity.
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Old 03-09-2013, 07:33 PM   #53
larryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KonaTheHusky View Post
For the XR650R vs the XR650L, how different are the sub-frames? If I'm talking about 40lbs worth of gear on something like the CDT, should be concerned enough to beef up the R frame, or just go with the L? The weight of the L is still in the ballpark of what I'm looking for, but it is apparently 30 lbs heavier than the R... damn... Not super concerned about the electric start options, mostly the luggage capacity.

Let's put it this way...without major mods to the L's cooling system(none) I wouldn't own one.

I have pounded loaded XRR's over rough ground for weeks on end.





The CDT has nothing like I rode here:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=644457


The subframe is fine.
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Old 03-09-2013, 08:08 PM   #54
KonaTheHusky OP
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Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
Let's put it this way...without major mods to the L's cooling system(none) I wouldn't own one.

I have pounded loaded XRR's over rough ground for weeks on end.





The CDT has nothing like I rode here:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=644457


The subframe is fine.
That's beautiful my friend! I'm glad to see I'm looking in the right place.

By a wonderful twist of fate, it looks like I'll be leaving my job at the beginning of April. Just in time for the weather to get nice. I think I'll downsize my stuff, bankroll a good bike (we'll see how I like the XRR) and load it up for a tour through Central America - so long as I can avoid getting kidnapped, robbed, or shot passing through Mexico.

No joke; this or the CDT are happening in my very near future.

Thanks again for the input!
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Old 03-09-2013, 11:43 PM   #55
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Regardless what people tell you, any bike can be ridden in any terrain. I've seen KLRs do insanely technical singletrack and tight switchbacks. The rub is that you need to decide what's important to you and make compromises from there.

There are no "do it all" bikes, but people have bikes that work exceptionally well for what they want. And if you find that what you buy isn't working? Sell it and try again, it ain't marriage. Most guys go through 2-3 bikes before they find that sweet spot.

Good luck.
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Old 03-10-2013, 07:59 AM   #56
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IMO - The bike you really need, you would have to build. You want/need a Ninja 250/300 motor, in an off-road capable chassis. I hate singles, for any street work. They all feel too vibey for prolonged periods of cruising
.
The Ninja 250 engine would be the worst off-road dual-sport power plant I can imagine. I'd hate to have to ride trails at 10,000 RPM. The engine makes way too little torque at way too high RPM.
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Old 03-10-2013, 08:14 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by KonaTheHusky View Post
By a wonderful twist of fate, it looks like I'll be leaving my job at the beginning of April. Just in time for the weather to get nice. I think I'll downsize my stuff, bankroll a good bike (we'll see how I like the XRR) and load it up for a tour through Central America
If by this you mean you have a little more $ to spend, I'd consider building up a DR-Z400S with the wide gear-set, suspension tweaks, kick-start kit, Seat Concepts seat, rear rack & Giant Loop bag, aux. lighting, large fuel tank, pumper carb, etc. Buy a clean bike, preferably already somewhat farkled, add $2k - $2.5k to get it sorted, and you'd have a great ADV bike for $5k.
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:04 AM   #58
jessepitt
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A little more DR

Now that you are talking about a serious road trip I would recommend adding the DR650 to your serious look-at-list. With a few small mods that most people do to an new bike it is ready to go around the world. It can be made to weigh within your spec, and has the most robust sub frame of ANY bike in its class. It is basically impossible to overheat, has an oil cooler for extra safety margin but can be run without it if its damaged and still have better cooling than an XRL. It does not have water pump seals to fail and it has oil jets that squirt the bottom of the piston for extra cooling. Check the largest thread in the Thumper section for more info:
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...5295&page=4980

I have a pretty nice DR 350 with a dual sport kit, hi-comp piston, steering stabilizer, re-valved suspension etc. It is totally street legal and insured. I also have a DR650, basically brand new but my second one, I put 30k on the first one before trading it. It never left me stranded. When I refer to my bikes I call the 350 my dirt bike and the 650 is just called my bike period. If I go anywhere or do anything on two wheels it will be on my 650. It is smooth as pretty much any single due to the gear driven counter balance system that does not require maintenance or adjustment.(No doohickey). My 350 is vibey and harsh on the road, it can be fun for a quick jaunt around town but I really only trail ride it. My 650 is great around town. It is surprisingly agile and zippy. I have a hard time not ridding it like a squid if I'm not loaded down. It does freeway speeds very well and twisty back roads a where the beast really comes out to play. It does not have the power of the XRR but it is lower and carries it weight lower which allows for serious cornering capabilities, combined with a fat torque and power band equal a pretty fun package. I have ridden an XRR and would take one in a heart beat but given a choice between the two I would take the DR for an all around-er particularly if long distance travel was in my plans. A well maintained DR650 is as reliable as you will find in a single.
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:41 AM   #59
trainman
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Here is why I'm now riding 250's in place of the 650's of past years.

http://www.youtube.com/user/bigdogadventures

At 67 these 250's just get the job done for us, were riding the Continental Divide, TAT, Forever West, etc., they work.




John
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:56 AM   #60
larryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KonaTheHusky View Post
That's beautiful my friend! I'm glad to see I'm looking in the right place.

By a wonderful twist of fate, it looks like I'll be leaving my job at the beginning of April. Just in time for the weather to get nice. I think I'll downsize my stuff, bankroll a good bike (we'll see how I like the XRR) and load it up for a tour through Central America - so long as I can avoid getting kidnapped, robbed, or shot passing through Mexico.

No joke; this or the CDT are happening in my very near future.

Thanks again for the input!


Here's a long term CA report on an XRR, good guy too:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735690


Same guy on the divide with the XRR:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=811067
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