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Old 03-09-2013, 12:39 PM   #31
knobbyjoe
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The Griz, post #30, has a good point about the new uni filter. I too don't want to start the tuning hassles, been there.

During my first venture into the LC8 at 14,000 miles I found dust and grit inside the air box past the stock filter!! I then replaced the snorkel with the uni. Can't report the value of that until I get a few miles in the dirt but I think it will solve the problem.

The point, we have an opportunity and choices for engine filtration, thats good. But trying different ones is cost prohibitive. I would like to buy the best one and be sure before hand based on real data. We do have testimonials but these may or may-not be accurate, Just how it is.

So we need a smart magazine editor to see the controversy and have an LC8 filter, scientific type, shoot-out. If a mc magazine did this I'd get a subscription. Hint to editors.
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Old 03-09-2013, 02:08 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Griz View Post
Hey Boulder, it seems to me that you wouldn't even need to take the 'trumpets' off of the throttle bodies, right? You could just slip the filter (oiled, with springs installed) over the trumpets, never having to take the trumpets off of the throttle bodies, then zip-tie to secure and velcro oiled orange filter over top.... Unless I'm missing something here.
Yes you could do it this way, I find it easier to snug the filter up to the trumpets and not over tighten the cable ties, you can see the seal around the surface this way. This is just my opinion.
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Old 03-09-2013, 02:19 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knobbyjoe View Post
The Griz, post #30, has a good point about the new uni filter. I too don't want to start the tuning hassles, been there.

During my first venture into the LC8 at 14,000 miles I found dust and grit inside the air box past the stock filter!! I then replaced the snorkel with the uni. Can't report the value of that until I get a few miles in the dirt but I think it will solve the problem.

The point, we have an opportunity and choices for engine filtration, thats good. But trying different ones is cost prohibitive. I would like to buy the best one and be sure before hand based on real data. We do have testimonials but these may or may-not be accurate, Just how it is.

So we need a smart magazine editor to see the controversy and have an LC8 filter, scientific type, shoot-out. If a mc magazine did this I'd get a subscription. Hint to editors.

When my brother and I picked our bikes up from Dalby Moto we rode them 8,500k's home across the outback, my brothers bike had the uni pre filter fitted and mine didn't only because they only had one in stock. I wish now that I would have taken pics but mine was red on the underside and very dirty and the top side also had some dirt, my brothers was as new on top and his airbox was cleaner, as soon as we got home I fitted the pre filter to mine.
PS The fuel consumption was the same on both bikes.
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boulder screwed with this post 03-09-2013 at 05:28 PM
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Old 03-09-2013, 03:03 PM   #34
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Maybe you need to remove the trumpets, in order to take the OEM filter off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Griz View Post
Hey Boulder, it seems to me that you wouldn't even need to take the 'trumpets' off of the throttle bodies, right? You could just slip the filter (oiled, with springs installed) over the trumpets, never having to take the trumpets off of the throttle bodies, then zip-tie to secure and velcro oiled orange filter over top.... Unless I'm missing something here.
You need to remove the trumpets in order to remove the OEM air filter.
Cheers.
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Old 03-09-2013, 06:41 PM   #35
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The big benefit I see with the Uni is being able to keep the airbox intact. My SE has seen a fair amount of deep water that would have drown it with the Rottweiler system. My thoughts are this would allow the use of the airbox as a water dam and if water did get in the foam could just be squeezed of most of the water. I think the top of the air box could be modded to provide more flow than the snorkle/prefilter allows.
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Old 03-09-2013, 08:21 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boulder View Post
Yes you could do it this way, I find it easier to snug the filter up to the trumpets and not over tighten the cable ties, you can see the seal around the surface this way. This is just my opinion.
Good info. Good to know.
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:16 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sporting Wood View Post
You will however, need to add a filter for the crank vent or it'll suck dust.

Since 2004/2005 there's been a one-way valve in the crank vent that only allows exhalation. Earlier bikes should have had one added. So no worries about sucking dust.
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:56 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sporting Wood View Post
I didn't think it was a one way valve, that it was a screen to attract oil only. A motor needs to breathe under the pistons, not simply exhale pressure. Are you certain about that?
Yes, I'm sure. It's a ball on a seat. I remember testing it so as to be sure of which way up to install it.
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:16 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRupert View Post
Since 2004/2005 there's been a one-way valve in the crank vent that only allows exhalation. Earlier bikes should have had one added. So no worries about sucking dust.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sporting Wood View Post
I didn't think it was a one way valve, that it was a screen to attract oil only. A motor needs to breathe under the pistons, not simply exhale pressure. Are you certain about that?
RedRupert is right. Its a one way valve. KTM part no. 60030090344
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Old 03-28-2013, 10:49 AM   #40
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Hey Boulder, and updates on how the new Uni is working? I'm super close to pulling the trigger on one.
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Old 03-28-2013, 01:52 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by The Griz View Post
Hey Boulder, and updates on how the new Uni is working? I'm super close to pulling the trigger on one.
Have you seen the MW-R filter? http://www.racingairfilters.eu/data/...C8%20%2001.jpg

We have bought one of these for Maya as well as the prefilter, we get it in about 3 weeks time in Guatemala so I can't say much more about it at this stage, they seem to have a good rep.

Let ya know when we get it if you are interested.

Cheers Andi
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:54 PM   #42
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I've seen that MW-R filter, yeah. For me it's far too thin and uses a single stage of very course foam. Too course to function properly in my opinion. I question it's ability to seal properly properly too. Not the way I want to go. I want a much thicker dual stage foam filter like the Uni. Seals well too. I just ordered the Uni! Now we'll see how long it takes to get from Australia to MN, USA.
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:36 PM   #43
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Cooli cool, yeah hopefully the MW-R will be ok, let ya know in time anyway, we will also be running the pre filter too so I would like to think we have it covered.
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:43 PM   #44
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For touring and general riding the uni is a good looking filter,, BUT if your chasing performance not having clearance around the velocity stacks is going to cost you a bit. You typically need the width of the horn flange clearance around the stack to maximize the charging affect. Trimming them etc probably wont hurt the average riders experience at all but on a motard type race situation or a road course,, it will cost a tenth or so.. There is definitely some voodoo around air flow that comes into play with stacks.

So I'd be not so worried on a ADV,, or even a SE,, but SM? no way I'd go with the Rottweiler for that environment.

Dave
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Old 03-31-2013, 06:00 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by pdxmotorhead View Post
For touring and general riding the uni is a good looking filter,, BUT if your chasing performance not having clearance around the velocity stacks is going to cost you a bit. You typically need the width of the horn flange clearance around the stack to maximize the charging affect. Trimming them etc probably wont hurt the average riders experience at all but on a motard type race situation or a road course,, it will cost a tenth or so.. There is definitely some voodoo around air flow that comes into play with stacks.

So I'd be not so worried on a ADV,, or even a SE,, but SM? no way I'd go with the Rottweiler for that environment.

Dave
That is my take too Dave, if the MW-R keeps the air clean and we can wash it on the run that is all I want from it, it will be more free flowing than factory but then we are adding the pre filter which will again slightly restrict it so plus or minus we will probably be the same, we may do the doors one day depending on how it all works out.

For us it is the ease of cleaning on the road and preservation of milage for those longer distances between fuel stops, we have 37 L on board when full but when we hit the soft stuff we will need it.
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