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Old 03-14-2013, 04:58 PM   #16
MANXMAN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco Dean View Post
I made my socket today and will be doing the switch over on the weekend.

Maybe I can beat manxman to it!!!
Installed the ball joint today and will reassemble the forks and fender on Saturday.

Disco Dean, you will beat me to the finish line though because my wheel will not be here in time to complete the installation by this weekend.



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Old 03-14-2013, 08:09 PM   #17
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Good ta see a few of ya's getting stuck into it.
Just a tip for avoiding potential disaster - make sure and keep abs sensor wire away from the pinch point (just in front of the ball joint pivot area.)
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Old 03-15-2013, 07:03 AM   #18
Disco Dean OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MANXMAN View Post
Installed the ball joint today and will reassemble the forks and fender on Saturday.

Disco Dean, you will beat me to the finish line though because my wheel will not be here in time to complete the installation by this weekend.



Looks like it will be a horse race!!! My wheels won't be in for a little while also. I have ordered them but had to do a few payments to alleviate pressure on the CCard... But, all good. I will have it up and running this weekend with the old wheels though so will post pics.

Did you use heat to get the nut off? I am thinking of torching it a bit to get it loose as I know the BMW oem ball joint is sealed in.

Funny thing is the rep rom says to put some moly on it???

What did you do Manxman?

D
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Old 03-15-2013, 11:38 AM   #19
MANXMAN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco Dean View Post

Did you use heat to get the nut off? I am thinking of torching it a bit to get it loose as I know the BMW oem ball joint is sealed in.

Funny thing is the rep rom says to put some moly on it???

What did you do Manxman?

D
No torch, use a heat gun to the underside of the ball joint. It didn't take more than a few minutes and it was easy to break it loose. Real sticky unscrewing it because of the factory thread locker.

Once removed, wire brush the threads of the ball joint real clean and apply red thread locker then install into the new Ralle Moto clamp.

Do not use a 12 point socket! 6 point only. There is not enough nut to grab with the 12 point with that kind of torque.
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Old 03-15-2013, 12:47 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by MANXMAN View Post
No torch, use a heat gun to the underside of the ball joint. It didn't take more than a few minutes and it was easy to break it loose. Real sticky unscrewing it because of the factory thread locker.

Once removed, wire brush the threads of the ball joint real clean and apply red thread locker then install into the new Ralle Moto clamp.

Do not use a 12 point socket! 6 point only. There is not enough nut to grab with the 12 point with that kind of torque.
Got it... good thing I got the 6 point!

I turned it down flat at the bottom of the socket and chamfered the end so it would fit as tight as possible. Still a lot of play with such a big socket to my mind but I guess they think it will be applied to monster nuts!!
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Old 03-16-2013, 08:57 AM   #21
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No pun intended. ;)
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Old 03-16-2013, 08:09 PM   #22
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Did it today first heat and it came right off.

The the forks in. Careful to line them up. Put the axle in loose then adjust. Then tighten and make sure the axle spins freely.



Then put the baby on!!!



Dab of red paint for safety.



Then bleed the brakes.



Tomorrow I wire an aux plug up front. Then wheels. Woodys will be coming this week. I'll post tomorrow the fender and clearance for the 21incher. Wish we didn't have much snow but no bother I'm riding tomorrow!!!
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Old 03-17-2013, 12:26 PM   #23
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Done. All good. But check the fender screws. The oem ones I had are smaller than the Rallymoto's. All cool unless you have to search for some short M6's on Sunday!!! Had to dig a trench through the snow to get out but made it and now for a wonderful early spring sunny day ride. Next week I slide the wheels on.



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Old 03-17-2013, 02:36 PM   #24
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Done. All good. But check the fender screws. The oem ones I had are smaller than the Rallymoto's. All cool unless you have to search for some short M6's on Sunday!!!
Was surprised to find that too. I had plenty of bolts the right size, but seeing as clearance is the whole point of the replacement clamp, I will try to find some with very thin screw type heads to retain the maximum clearance.

I wonder if Quirky's bike which was used for the development of the clamp has larger fender screws than ours does. I think his bike is newer.
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Old 03-17-2013, 03:47 PM   #25
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I checked the fiche and the 2010 has the M5 like ours - so they must have put in the M6... I don't mind either as I think those are the only M5's on the bike. And, M6 is alright - but I too will have to find some nice low profile bolts.

Dean
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Old 03-17-2013, 04:24 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by MANXMAN View Post
Was surprised to find that too. I had plenty of bolts the right size, but seeing as clearance is the whole point of the replacement clamp, I will try to find some with very thin screw type heads to retain the maximum clearance.

I wonder if Quirky's bike which was used for the development of the clamp has larger fender screws than ours does. I think his bike is newer.
I now have had my memory jolted and do remember Mark telling me they went up a size on them 4 bolts. Why? nope, I don't remember.
Think he likes the beefier bolts.

Could also have something to do with a few less tool changes on the mill and or longevity of the tools.

Cheers,

Quirky
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Old 03-17-2013, 11:31 PM   #27
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Bolt Size

Hi guys, Im really sorry about the no bolts in the package..... It was my bad I simply forgot to put them in with the first 4 clamps that went out

We made the bolts bigger because they are simply stronger and the M6 screws are what almost every bike uses for the front mudguard.

We us a M6 x 20mm button head cap screw stainless steel.

Cheers
Vaughan
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Old 03-18-2013, 07:02 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by mark0ne View Post
Hi guys, Im really sorry about the no bolts in the package..... It was my bad I simply forgot to put them in with the first 4 clamps that went out

We made the bolts bigger because they are simply stronger and the M6 screws are what almost every bike uses for the front mudguard.

We us a M6 x 20mm button head cap screw stainless steel.

Cheers
Vaughan
I think that these bolts are such a big issue for me that you should give me a integrated steering dampener to make me feel better for it!!!

...seriously all good. The little oem "turd" like bolts that came off - stripped the head of one anyway as the Torx was so small... so having to get new ones regardless. Good choice on the bolts. Just hard to find them at the hardware store on Sunday.

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Old 03-19-2013, 04:24 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco Dean View Post
I think that these bolts are such a big issue for me that you should give me a integrated steering dampener to make me feel better for it!!!

...seriously all good. The little oem "turd" like bolts that came off - stripped the head of one anyway as the Torx was so small... so having to get new ones regardless. Good choice on the bolts. Just hard to find them at the hardware store on Sunday.

No probs mate here you go a free steering damper!! Just see the bottom to read terms and conditions!


Photo only damper not included!!!
But at least it can give you something to work towards

Cheers mate hope you find those bolts if not let me know and I can organise something for you?
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Old 03-19-2013, 05:26 AM   #30
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No probs mate here you go a free steering damper!! Just see the bottom to read terms and conditions!


Photo only damper not included!!!
But at least it can give you something to work towards

Cheers mate hope you find those bolts if not let me know and I can organise something for you?
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