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Old 03-09-2013, 04:00 PM   #1
Alleycatdad OP
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Valve check help...

Ok, so I successfully checked the rear cylinder clearances without issue; however, when I attempted to move the front cylinder to TDC, the crank bolt loosened. So....how tight does it need to be?

...and, how does one go about tightening it? How do you hold the crank to get it tight? This may be complicated by the fact that I have a rekluse....can't use the engine locking bolt because it's not at TDC....

Thanks!

Steve
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Alleycatdad screwed with this post 03-09-2013 at 05:09 PM
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Old 03-09-2013, 04:36 PM   #2
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Put the sparkplugs in, turn the crank clockwise until the compression kicks in and hit the wrench with your palm a few times. Take the sparkplugs back out and you should be able to turn the crank over counterclockwise. If the bolt losens just rinse and repeat.
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Old 03-09-2013, 04:48 PM   #3
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Pull the plugs an put the bike in top gear and rotate the engine with the back wheel. If you have a cenyer stand.
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Old 03-09-2013, 04:53 PM   #4
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That crank bolt should not back out just by backing up the engine to check the valves. It's got a lot of torque on it and green Loctite. Did you do something odd like leaving in the engine block bolt in place while you tried to back up the engine to go to the second cylinder??? In my mind, if you've done something to cause that bolt to back out, you should get it torqued back in place to the right specs and using green Loctite.
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Old 03-09-2013, 05:07 PM   #5
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There's sme great help there, thanks.

I did nothing unusual to back the bolt out; even had the spark plugs out, and the engine locking bolt is out as well.

This is, however, the first time I've been in this specific engine but it has had one highly suspect dealer service.

Couldn;t find the torque spec cause I don't know what KTM calls that bolt; so that's really a big help.

Thanks!

Steve
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Old 03-09-2013, 05:09 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Katoom72 View Post


Put the sparkplugs in, turn the crank clockwise until the compression kicks in and hit the wrench with your palm a few times. Take the sparkplugs back out and you should be able to turn the crank over counterclockwise. If the bolt losens just rinse and repeat.

This is basically what I did. I was worried about turning it backwards, tho. Thanks!

S
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Old 03-10-2013, 12:46 AM   #7
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This may be a obvious statement, but here it goes: the bolt that holds the flywheel on SHOULD NOT come loose from turning the engine CCW without the plugs installed..... honestly its a VERY good thing that you caught it before it came loose while the engine was running.
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Old 03-10-2013, 06:56 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Head2Wind View Post
This may be a obvious statement, but here it goes: the bolt that holds the flywheel on SHOULD NOT come loose from turning the engine CCW without the plugs installed..... honestly its a VERY good thing that you caught it before it came loose while the engine was running.
Yep. I'll add to that and suggest that you take off the generator cover and tighten that bolt properly using the proper Loctite. It costs you a few hours of time, some odd Loctite, and one gasket. If that bolt comes off during operation, the flywheel can damage the stator, and that can make one heck of a mess, and stators are sometimes hard to find:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=339036

My guess is that the dealer accidentally left the engine block bolt in and tried to back up the engine during the first valve check, resulting in the condition you have now. That flywheel bolt should just never come out under any kind of normal use/repair conditions.
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Old 03-10-2013, 08:34 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orangecicle View Post
My guess is that the dealer accidentally left the engine block bolt in and tried to back up the engine during the first valve check, resulting in the condition you have now.
You really believe the dealer did a valve check ;)
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:38 AM   #10
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You really believe the dealer did a valve check ;)
I'm kinda torn on this, actually...given the fact that pretty much everything the dealer touched during the service was done incorrectly, left incomplete, or misassembled, I had assumed that the valves were never checked, which is why I was in there in the first place yesterday.

However...oil seepage from the valve covers, grossly overtightened valve cover bolts (except for the two that were nearly falling out), loose throttle body boot bolts, and barely finger-tight sparkplugs actually lead me to believe that they did actually get in there. My measurements were pretty close to what they got as well, which is a surprise to say the least...

Anyway, yeah, I've got a gasket on order. Got it secure enough to finish the valve check and put the covers back on, but I'll worry about it until it's right.

This crap is why I do almost all of my own work. There's a rant on the site somewhere about this service experience so I won't repeat it here, but short story is that it was the first service on the bike and I wanted to be sure I was covered if we had a later warranty issue; however, given the level of performance and service I was given I don't think I'd let these idjits fix a warranty issue anyway... I was due for the service, working 24/7, and had a big trip coming up. Shoulda just gone back and gotten the bike when they called me asking if I had spark plugs or an air filter for it...

I remember seeing another thread with this issue a while ago, but couldn't find it with a search, so thanks for all of the help!

Steve
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:48 AM   #11
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OK, I'm back.

I've seen the threads referencing loctite 648 green for the rotor locking bolt; however, my current service manual specifies 243 for this bolt.

Input?

Steve
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Old 03-10-2013, 11:10 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alleycatdad View Post
OK, I'm back.

I've seen the threads referencing loctite 648 green for the rotor locking bolt; however, my current service manual specifies 243 for this bolt.

Input?

Steve
The 648 is for the six small bolts that hold the freewheel to the rotor.
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Old 03-10-2013, 11:14 AM   #13
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The 648 is for the six small bolts that hold the freewheel to the rotor.

Thanks. I'll catch up eventually...

S
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Old 03-10-2013, 03:43 PM   #14
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The major difference between the two is the max operating temp while still retaining the fastener. IMO, using the 648 on the large center bolt is OK. Just need to remember that the bolt will need to be carefully heated to make future removal easier.

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Old 03-10-2013, 04:39 PM   #15
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http://wiki.answers.com/Q/The_actual...en_loctite_648
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