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Old 03-11-2013, 03:54 PM   #16
Ned1
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That's the "factory optimistic weight" with stock tank and non-cush rear wheel. I had a DRZ 400S last year and it felt about the same in terms of weight and FAR different when you grab a handful of throttle.

Get the forks re-sprung, the OEM springs (if you have them) are too mushy, especially if you hammer the bike like wrk2surf does.

Oh, if you find a sale on rear tires you like buy a half dozen of them... needless to say, you'll be going through them quickly

There's a few guys around here who rode this bike...they'll find this thread and help you get it sorted to your liking.
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:12 PM   #17
clintnz
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If you don't have a cush hub you'll want to be quite anal about properly torquing, loctiting & checking your sprocket bolts. I've seen a few non cush hubs trashed on higher power dirtbikes used on the street when things loosen up. Have fun, an SXC with the big tank & the comfy seat is an extremely versatile & fun machine.

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Old 03-11-2013, 08:18 PM   #18
Grreatdog
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I learned the torque and Loctite drill at the S500 when I Limped back to camp on three bolts. As for tires, I have yet to have a rear go 1000 miles.
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:04 PM   #19
micah360 OP
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Yeah... it will be used on the street a lot... so I will start looking for a different rear wheel with the cush. I called Woody's today and they don't have squat in stock for a used unit.

I had a feeling it would eat through the rear tires. The TKC80 that is on there now is getting low.

I will be doing an oil change on it this week. I read up on that process today. 1.5 liters, 2 filters and bleed the line... check.

Also... there is a guy on craigslist who might have a set of 17" wheels/tires from a 2005 625 SMC for sale (he converted to enduro). Would those bolt up ok? I would like to have a supermoto set to rip through the mountains on.
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:30 PM   #20
Ned1
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when you do the line bleed make sure you go easy on the banjo when tightening it so you don't rip the threads out of the engine case. smart to buy a few extra copper crush washers for that oil banjo. also, careful with the oil drain bolt; after 30-something changes I stripped the case threads and entered into the oversize drain plug conundrum which is not insurmountable but is a PITA.

SMC's run WP48 forks which is a 26mm axle. your WP43 forks are for a 20mm axle. you can get an adapter for 20 to 26mm but not the other way around. I had a set of sumo hoops for my SXC (too much fun) but they were factory 640SM wheels for a 2002 that had the WP43's on it from the factory.

if your bike doesn't have one already, get yourself a glass headlight (Baja Designs works just fine) and a brighter bulb too.
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:45 PM   #21
Young-Gun
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Originally Posted by wrk2surf View Post
I would also rebuld the 10.5 Magura clutch master plunger and the lever insert to avoid slop as well as a new Oring on the Slave and when in there make sure to put in new fluid and bleed.
I just did this to mine last night, with the right syringe and plastic/rubber hose, it's a 2min job and super easy!
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Old 03-13-2013, 11:38 AM   #22
micah360 OP
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just did an oil change this morning. Wasn't too bad but I got nervous when I was bleeding the line and nothing came out for about 3-4 seconds (I was expecting oil to come out pretty much instantly).

But it all went well and it's filled to the correct level now. When I got the bike it was a tad overfull (had to lean the bike to the right to see the oil), and who knows how old that oil was.

and thanks for the help Young-gun-640!
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Old 03-13-2013, 01:05 PM   #23
gnuttis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by micah360 View Post
just did an oil change this morning. Wasn't too bad but I got nervous when I was bleeding the line and nothing came out for about 3-4 seconds (I was expecting oil to come out pretty much instantly).

But it all went well and it's filled to the correct level now. When I got the bike it was a tad overfull (had to lean the bike to the right to see the oil), and who knows how old that oil was.

and thanks for the help Young-gun-640!
Have to fill up both oil filter! :)
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Old 03-13-2013, 01:38 PM   #24
micah360 OP
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I just got back from my first actual ride of more than 5 miles since I got the SXC. I went about 60 miles with a combination of interstate, muddy gravel roads and paved mountain twisties.

What a blast this bike is! I just wish there wouldn't have been so much sand on the corners so I could have come into and out of them like I wanted.

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Old 03-14-2013, 08:11 AM   #25
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can you guys tell me what the stock gearing was on these bikes?

Yesterday I pulled my cover off and I counted 14t on the front and I have a 45t on the back. I should probably go to a 15t or 16t front don't you think?
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Old 03-14-2013, 02:14 PM   #26
Young-Gun
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Quote:
Originally Posted by micah360 View Post
can you guys tell me what the stock gearing was on these bikes?

Yesterday I pulled my cover off and I counted 14t on the front and I have a 45t on the back. I should probably go to a 15t or 16t front don't you think?
Nice work on the oil change!

My gearing is 16-44 and works well for me, you'll probably find yours sounds like it's labouring quite a bit at the higher speeds? But that said, don't be shy on the revs, they are brilliant motors and like a good ringing now and again
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Old 03-14-2013, 08:29 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by micah360 View Post
can you guys tell me what the stock gearing was on these bikes?

Yesterday I pulled my cover off and I counted 14t on the front and I have a 45t on the back. I should probably go to a 15t or 16t front don't you think?
The 640 Adventure runs 16/42, some of use switched up to 17/42 for a more relaxed highway cruise.

Either works for me on gravel a on the ATV trails.

Fully loaded with gas(7.5 gal) and full travel camping gear 17/42 is a little weak on a hell for long rough slippery hill off road.

bill
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Old 03-14-2013, 11:30 PM   #28
Ned1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by micah360 View Post
can you guys tell me what the stock gearing was on these bikes?

Yesterday I pulled my cover off and I counted 14t on the front and I have a 45t on the back. I should probably go to a 15t or 16t front don't you think?
That front sprocket cover needs to be ditched or at least cored out so you can keep an eye on the sprocket nut. Put some marking paint on the nut and countershaft as witness marks to indicate if the nut is backing off.

14t is a little short unless you're off road a lot. I ran 15/44 for all around dual sport, 16/44 for long haul road rides and 14/44 if I was laboring in tighter, steeper ground. Make sure to buy the OEM front sprocket (the width is an important part to keep countershaft seal from leaking oil) a couple spare lock washers and a spare sprocket nut...one can never have enough small nickel and dime extras.
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Old 03-14-2013, 11:57 PM   #29
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The stock for UK/EU is 16/40 on SXC. I did 16/42 on gravel 'no enduro' for supermoto I took 17/42 but I got the rally cam shaft & 2-1-2 system from a -05smc on my 625 -04. 690R got 15/45 and it was fun but you prefer not to drive faster than 140 on tarmac with supermoto wheels.

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Old 03-15-2013, 08:06 AM   #30
micah360 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ned1 View Post
That front sprocket cover needs to be ditched or at least cored out so you can keep an eye on the sprocket nut. Put some marking paint on the nut and countershaft as witness marks to indicate if the nut is backing off.

14t is a little short unless you're off road a lot. I ran 15/44 for all around dual sport, 16/44 for long haul road rides and 14/44 if I was laboring in tighter, steeper ground. Make sure to buy the OEM front sprocket (the width is an important part to keep countershaft seal from leaking oil) a couple spare lock washers and a spare sprocket nut...one can never have enough small nickel and dime extras.
thanks. Do you know what is the torque on the countershaft nut?
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