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Old 03-17-2013, 11:21 AM   #16
redprimo
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I've been watching this thread with interest because one of the next tasks onmy 1980 xl500s restoration is the exhaust system. I'm a big fan of the right tool for the job but at the same time i'm on a budget. Could some one please explain why I should buy a stud instalation tool rather than double nut the stud like I have always done in the past.

This is an honest question
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Old 03-17-2013, 02:21 PM   #17
anotherguy
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I have a Snap-On CG515B set. The price has doubled since I bought mine and it wasn't cheap then.

The reason I use it is I do this for a living and double nutting can stretch the stud weakening it and I have to do it free the second time. The kit is large and won't work for applications in tight confines.
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Old 03-17-2013, 04:19 PM   #18
S/W
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cleaning the threads

I disagree with the guy who says don't run a tap in. If you run the PROPER size tap in you will take out an insignifigant amount of metal unless the threads were incomplete anyway, in which case the metal needs to come out. The tap will take out most of the old threadlocker if there was any. Just don't cross thread the tap. Since you asked this question, I think you might want to find someone with experience to look at this project for some in person advice. Is this a replacement head, if so maybe the guy running the tapping machine was having a bad day.
I would get someone with experience to actually look at this. I have been a mechanic since 1967.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:42 AM   #19
anotherguy
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How do you determine the H (US standard) or D (metric) factor on a given hole?

I see you are a manufacturing engineer. You do know what they are w/o looking it up don't you?
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