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Old 09-01-2011, 09:42 AM   #1831
Tom S
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Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Anchorage Alaska
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Those stands you guys showed are different than my ‘96 Duke.
I removed this little gizmo & one of the 2 springs.



That thing fit in behind the stand. Here is the only pic of it that I could find in the manual.



I made a stainless bracket to relocate the spring at the top & one for the bottom. The bottom one bolts on to where the two original springs attached on the lower part of the stand & curves around to get it in the right place. A clevis pin for the upper spring attachment.


I think I replaced the large bolt that now goes thru my bracket with another stainless one.
I don’t remember drilling & tapping a hole for the small stainless bolt at the bottom of the bracket, but I don’t know what it would have been for.
Yeah, that heavy wire between the clevis pin & the spring looks kind of funky. Needs something else there or a different spring.




Maybe you could make a bracket something like I did to relocate the spring. Top of the bracket would be held by the top spring attachment pin, or whatever you might call it, & kept from pivoting. Unlike mine the bolt that holds your stands on would have to hold the bracket.

Just make sure that the spring is tight enough to hold the stand up!
Mine wasn’t at first. Well, it was most of the time, but running down the highway once it worked it’s way down. Heard a scraping sound. WTF?! Then had a hard time getting it folded back because it locks in the down position when it goes past a step in the stand bracket. You have to push it in towards the bike before you can fold it back, sort of forgot that so I was fighting it. “Why won’t this thing fold?!”

Here is a tool tip for reattaching tight springs. When I pulled the muffler off I had a hell of a time getting those small springs back on. Those suckers were small & very tight. Couldn’t hold them well enough with Vice Grips.
Also couldn’t use the trick of insert some things between the spring coils, like some people have done with pennies or such. Springs were too small & way too tight.

I spied this old heater hose clamp. Now I could hold that real good with the Vice Grips. After the spring is on, just rotate the clamp around & slip it off the spring thru the opening where the clamp crosses over.



That stand!
I damn near dropped the bike the first time I touched it. I was on the right hand side & it was the first time I saw the bike.

But the real kicker was at a very, very busy gas station at the start of a big holiday weekend. There were all kinds of campers, motorhomes, boats on trailers, cars, planes, trucks trains, kids, dogs... A real madhouse there that day.

So, I have the borrowed helmet off & hanging on the mirror, gloves, sunglasses on the seat. Again, I’m on the right side of the bike & I start pumping gas.
A truck is trying to get in & the rear of the bike was slightly angled out. I thought I pull the bike over a little to give him more room. By now I was well aware of the stand & watched it as I drug the bike over a bit.
Let go, & bam! Over she goes, gas nozzle still pumping gas all over the ground, helmet, glasses & gloves hits the concrete.
The stand must have slipped part that step I mentioned, I was watching it & it was still down when I let go.
Guy at the pump ahead of me must have seen the whole thing, he exclaimed “THAT STAND!”

To top it off when I grabbed the pump nozzle & slammed it back on the pump, the bracket that holds the nozzle to the pump broke right off the pump!

I thought later that it was damn a good thing that I didn’t have a cigarette lighter or something else on the seat that made a spark when it hit the concrete next to all that gas.
Some safety item, that stand.
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Old 09-01-2011, 11:01 AM   #1832
mgib
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A friend had a shop add the SW Motech sidestand to his 640 (he was on business) and the shop added a 2" helper spring to the installation. Problem solved. I added the same stand to mine. Both of our shins are bruised! He had to move my bike around in the building and was wondering how the fuck he was gonna get the stand off his leg without dropping the bike. I still laugh about the picture in my head.
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mgib screwed with this post 09-01-2011 at 11:01 AM Reason: spelin
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Old 09-02-2011, 03:34 AM   #1833
tHEtREV
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Anyone know what I have done wrong?

I'm in the process of giving my 02 640A an 06 640 top end, and doing the clutch bearing while I'm at it.

I had the head and cylinder back together and on the bike for a while, but the clutch bearing has only arrived today so I have only just gotten the clutch cover on.

After I did that I gave the kick starter a push down just to make sure everything turns.

It went through one stroke fine, but on the next it made a horrible "thungggg" noise under the rocker cover.

I tried it again and it did the same thing on the second stroke.

It sounds like something under spring pressure hitting the rocker cover.

Any ideas?
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Old 09-02-2011, 04:32 AM   #1834
tHEtREV
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It's been that long since I have had it together I can't remember what the normal sounds are, but I just reread the manual and it said it should make an audable click when the auto decomp disengages (even says to test it by turning the crank and dive back into the top end if it doesn't make the click).

But I can't remember it being that loud.

It hasn't got any oil in it at the moment so I wonder if that makes a difference.
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Old 09-02-2011, 06:06 AM   #1835
Lortdadu
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Is that a grinding noise you are referring to? It's only supposed to be a "click", not a grinding noise for the autodecomp system.

Is your camchain at the correct tightness? Did you make sure that the camchain automatic tensioner is set to the most loose position before putting it back in?
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Old 09-02-2011, 08:52 AM   #1836
mxrider14
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Just bought a 2001 KTM 640e. It has the Magura HYMEC (aka Magura Jack, but the old one) system for the clutch cable. However, it felt like it was adjusted wrong, so I started taking everything apart to diagnose it. I've never had a hydraulic clutch like this. I was going to reverse bleed it with a syringe, but I could not find a bleeder valve anywhere.

Long story short, I got air in the lines. Now the lever is completely soft. I found out that the arm was just adjusted wrong, and I didn't even have to bleed it in the first place stupid me.

How can I get the air out of the system? I have literally been searching for the past hour and a half, and searching google as well.

It looks like where the bleeder valve is supposed to be, there is just an allen bolt that has no bleeder on it, where you would attach the hose to. That allen bolt has the hole drilled through the side of it of course. If I need to take pictures, I can. If I need to buy a new banjo bolt with a bleeder on it, does anyone know where I can get one from? The bike is just sitting in my garage now, begging to be ridden.

Thanks for your help.
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Old 09-02-2011, 09:25 AM   #1837
mxrider14
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I bought this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MAGUR...item336990da7a

I know I got totally ripped off, but I called every motorcycle shop and they couldnt order me a banjo bolt with a bleeder, I went to every auto parts and bolt specialty store with no luck. I even tried filling the slave up with ATF and gravity bleeding the line, hoping to get all the air out... no luck! Haha.
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Old 09-02-2011, 10:09 AM   #1838
Zecatfish
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Location: Arkansas USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tHEtREV View Post
It's been that long since I have had it together I can't remember what the normal sounds are, but I just reread the manual and it said it should make an audable click when the auto decomp disengages (even says to test it by turning the crank and dive back into the top end if it doesn't make the click).

But I can't remember it being that loud.

It hasn't got any oil in it at the moment so I wonder if that makes a difference.

Pull it back apart and double check the timing marks.
While your in there reexamine everything on the top end, short of pulling the head.

I'm getting ready to do a major on mine too.
Topend, and crank rebuild so I get the pleasure of learning to split the cases on the LC4.
It really don't look much tougher than it was on my ATK (Rotax) 250. At least I hope.

BTW http://www.mrcrankshaft.com/ will do the crank rebuild with a Pro-X rod and bearing for around $210. Where I'm planning on sending mine unless someone has something bad to say about them.
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Old 09-02-2011, 10:22 AM   #1839
Mo-Tarded
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Re: "THE STAND" I think I have a perma-tobin on my shin.

I simply tightened-up the fastener until there was was so much friction it couldn't slam me anymore.

Hate to say it, but thanks for the laugh.
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Old 09-02-2011, 11:10 AM   #1840
Lortdadu
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No, no, no!!!

I took the rocker cover to reseal the surface, and the auto decomp system stopped functioning again! Last time I got it fixed by changing the spring for the auto decomp system, but now I've reassembled the cover multiple times without success of getting the damn thing to click! AARGH!

Just as I got it to work two weeks ago!

Any ideas on what to do?
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Old 09-03-2011, 02:10 AM   #1841
martijn
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great

what a magnificent thread this is, thanks for the huge effort!
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Old 09-04-2011, 12:38 AM   #1842
makazica
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lortdadu View Post
No, no, no!!!

I took the rocker cover to reseal the surface, and the auto decomp system stopped functioning again! Last time I got it fixed by changing the spring for the auto decomp system, but now I've reassembled the cover multiple times without success of getting the damn thing to click! AARGH!

Just as I got it to work two weeks ago!

Any ideas on what to do?

Adjust the valve clearance. If the clearances are way out of spec you won't hear it click....

M.
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Old 09-04-2011, 01:10 AM   #1843
Lortdadu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makazica View Post
Adjust the valve clearance. If the clearances are way out of spec you won't hear it click....

M.
Hmm... That might work, I'll readjust the clearance, if that doesn't work, I'll take the cover off and clean the camshaft and see if there's anything that's blocking the autodecomp system.
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Old 09-04-2011, 06:17 AM   #1844
meat popsicle OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tHEtREV View Post
I'm in the process of giving my 02 640A an 06 640 top end, and doing the clutch bearing while I'm at it.

I had the head and cylinder back together and on the bike for a while, but the clutch bearing has only arrived today so I have only just gotten the clutch cover on.

After I did that I gave the kick starter a push down just to make sure everything turns.

It went through one stroke fine, but on the next it made a horrible "thungggg" noise under the rocker cover.

I tried it again and it did the same thing on the second stroke.

It sounds like something under spring pressure hitting the rocker cover.

Any ideas?
You should ask your question in either Laramie's thread:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188472

or in Gunnerbuck, Tseta, or clintnz's threads:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...8&postcount=56

Many have good knowledge but these are some I know do, and they may not be looking here.
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Old 09-09-2011, 09:22 AM   #1845
tim62465
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00 LC4-e bar ends

I tried putting on some bar end weights, just like I did on my KLR, but the inside diameter of the bar is too narrow. I figured the bar were similiarl, but I was mistaken. The ends from stenhouse racing are for 06-09 supermoto.

Anyone got any ideas on what the inside diameter of the stock bars are?

Thanks
Tim
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