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Old 11-04-2006, 02:47 AM   #241
Ovenpaa
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Heated jacket on an LC4 Adventure

It is getting cold, in fact so cold I am going to invest in a heated liner, this is fine on the GSA but I do wonder if the little Adventure will cope with the current draw. I ride to work every day 35 minutes each way in the dark and the bike always stays outside.

I am about to fit a brand new battery, but will it go the distance?

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Old 11-04-2006, 06:02 AM   #242
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Should be fine

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ovenpaa
It is getting cold, in fact so cold I am going to invest in a heated liner, this is fine on the GSA but I do wonder if the little Adventure will cope with the current draw. I ride to work every day 35 minutes each way in the dark and the bike always stays outside.

I am about to fit a brand new battery, but will it go the distance?

Cheers
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Old 11-08-2006, 02:40 PM   #243
Ovenpaa
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Starting from cold

My Adventure starts on the button - I leave it out every night in the damp and the cold and just walk out, turn the choke full on, pull the clutch in and prod the vbutton and bang off it goes, I do nothing else at all, petrol is always on and I never touch the throttle.

It's Brilliant!

Unless I stall it after a few seconds (yeah I know dont stall it!) But if I do then I have a nightmare getting it started again - i have tried full choke, no choke, full throttle, no throttle, kick start, electric start and basically 10 or 15 minutes and lot of cursing and sweating later it may start.

Any ideas guys?
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Old 11-08-2006, 02:54 PM   #244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ovenpaa
...
Unless I stall it ...
What do you mean by stall it?
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Old 11-08-2006, 03:04 PM   #245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle
What do you mean by stall it?
Good question, today I think I closed the choke down to much, but last time it was at the bottom of the road, it was on half choke and just fluffed and stopped when I opened it up to pull off. The thing is it is usually great and just goes, and if warm and I do stall it a quick prod and it is off again. tick over is set to about 1400 and it has a full Akro, rejet and airbox mods.

I plan to service it this weekend as I have not given it a full service since I got it maybe a 750 miles ago. It is a late 2002 model with 5100 miles on the clock.
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Old 11-08-2006, 03:59 PM   #246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ovenpaa
Good question, today I think I closed the choke down to much, but last time it was at the bottom of the road, it was on half choke and just fluffed and stopped when I opened it up to pull off. The thing is it is usually great and just goes, and if warm and I do stall it a quick prod and it is off again. tick over is set to about 1400 and it has a full Akro, rejet and airbox mods.

I plan to service it this weekend as I have not given it a full service since I got it maybe a 750 miles ago. It is a late 2002 model with 5100 miles on the clock.
And this only happens when the bike is cold and stalls... Perhaps one of la familia who is more up on carbs can help you with this.

I recall creeper posted some time ago that the LC4 doesn't have a true "choke", meaning it doesn't choke the airflow, and the thing we treat like a choke is an enrichner. Just thinkin' out loud...

All I can offer is a small test: just wondering if perhaps you are flooding the chamber, and the 10-15 minutes of frustration is filled with more flooding of the chamber until it finally clears? I know: why not when the bike is warm; but you are not using the "choke" (enrichner) then are ya?

One test that may work in that situation: hold the manual decompression lever down and kick (the kickstarter) thru several times (at least 5, buy maybe try 10). That could help evacuate the chamber, if it is flooded, and get you a good clean charge.
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Old 11-08-2006, 05:31 PM   #247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ovenpaa
My Adventure starts on the button - I leave it out every night in the damp and the cold and just walk out, turn the choke full on, pull the clutch in and prod the vbutton and bang off it goes, I do nothing else at all, petrol is always on and I never touch the throttle.

It's Brilliant!

Unless I stall it after a few seconds (yeah I know dont stall it!) But if I do then I have a nightmare getting it started again - i have tried full choke, no choke, full throttle, no throttle, kick start, electric start and basically 10 or 15 minutes and lot of cursing and sweating later it may start.

Any ideas guys?
  1. Check to make sure that your hot idle speed is at least 1600 rpm. (Idle too low to support efficient combustion)
  2. Check that you don't have some bizarre, oversize/undersize pilot jets. (You may already know this)
  3. Check the enrichner piston to make sure it's seating and not hanging up and that the cap nut is seated. (Possible excessive fuel delivery)
  4. Check that the spark plug cap is screwed on tight and that the high tension lead it screws onto isn't corroded. If it is, snip off about 3/8" to get fresh lead and screw the cap back on nice and tight. (Possible weak spark issue)
  5. Check the diaphragm vent hose (the one coming off the top rear of the carb body attached to an elbow) is clear and that air can flow in and out of the carb. (Vacuum in area under the diaphragm rather than atmospheric)
  6. If you want to pull the carb, you can check the float level adjustment too and make sure all the jets... fuel and air are clear and snug. (General, common... fuck'd up stuff)

That's all I have... there could be more, but I'm offering possibilities in degrees of difficulty and likelihood. Your symptoms could be the result of several handfuls of things... including too small a valve lash setting.

C
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Old 11-08-2006, 05:58 PM   #248
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A couple of thoughts for ya.

Firstly, when it stalls, try opening the throttle just a little and holding it steady while you e-start. Works for me on most cantankerous 4-strokes struggling to restart.

Secondly, your idle is at the lowest limit. 1400-1500 is the spec for mine, plus it's suggested here to run it at 1600 or 1650. Even going from 1500 to 1550 made mine much easier to live with. Low idle will make the bike more stall-prone, particularly when coming off the choke when the bike isn't fully warmed up. Higher idle will send you in the direction of my first suggestion.

My bike was stall-prone with the idle at 1500 and the idle mixture not quite right, mainly when it was new and running-in, and I wasn't much used to it. It needed adjusting a couple of times. But I never had the grief you are describing.
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Old 11-09-2006, 02:01 AM   #249
Ovenpaa
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Thanks guys for all your suggestions, I have to add some aux power points this weekend and service it so I will set the idle a bit higher, check the HT lead and give it some fresh oil filters and plug give it a good check over and cross my fingers.
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Old 11-11-2006, 09:19 AM   #250
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It was a cold day to be working outside even with the wife helping by holding stuff and making hot drinks. The Oil and filters were changed (what a PITA that is!) Plug replaced and gapped (Old was on 0.7 - I have gapped the new to 0.9) Everything torqued correctly and drain plugs lockwired because I like to do that

I increased the tickover to 1600 and killed it on cold with full choke and opened the gas a couple of times for good measure and it fired up again first time so I am well pleased.

I also fitted the cable and outlet for my heated jacket and 2 Aux sockets in the dash and then realised I had run out of cable for the sockets so that is a job for next weekend, at least the tank rubbers are greased now so the tank should come off with a bit less hassle than today.

So thanks guys for all your suggestions, an easy afternoon really with no dramas, The real test comes Monday morning. Now I am going to sit down with a nice glass of red and relax.

Cheers
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Old 11-14-2006, 05:20 PM   #251
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what should my compression be 2004 625 sxc

My KTM 2004 625 sxc started burning oil like crazy 2 days ago. I was wondering if anyone knows how many pounds of compession I should be getting(I haven't checked it yet). I tried looking at the LC4 page but just got distracted by all the info.
Thanks for any help in advance.
One
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Old 11-14-2006, 10:13 PM   #252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneof15GS
My KTM 2004 625 sxc started burning oil like crazy 2 days ago. I was wondering if anyone knows how many pounds of compession I should be getting(I haven't checked it yet). I tried looking at the LC4 page but just got distracted by all the info.
Thanks for any help in advance.
One
Yeah, sorry about that. It's hard to find stuff sometimes. Kinda like going to Home Depot for one bolt eh?

The engine manual lists the compression ratio as 11,5 : 1. Sorry, but I can't be more help than that. I see they are related but I do not know how to convert one into the other.

There is a fella around here who should know. If he doesn't show up I will drop him a line.
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Old 11-14-2006, 10:50 PM   #253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle
There is a fella around here who should know. If he doesn't show up I will drop him a line.
Doesn't work that way Meat. Mechanical compression ratio in and of itself will not give you either the corrected compression, or the amount of cylinder pressure that can be generated.
Mechanical compression ratio is, in simple terms, the multiple of times the gross cylinder volume plus the combustion chamber volume can be squeezed into the combustion chamber at TDCC. In the case of the LC4, that's 11.5 times. That's volume, not pressure.

If you want to see the variables that affect this calcualtion... look here.

Along with displacement and compression ratio, pressure is determined by cam timing... when the intake valve closes after BDCC. Later closing (longer timing) equals less "compression", earlier closing... more "compression".
Volumetric efficiency of the complete intake system has a tremendous effect on pressure as well.
If you don't have all the numbers to punch into the equation... you can't even fake it.

I've never seen a value listed for an LC4 static compression test. As someone earlier said, about 150 psi is OK... and that's on a warm engine with an open throttle after about 4-6 rotations.
To do a compression test on a CV carb equipped bike, you have to open the throttle and manually open the vacuum piston all the way, or the test is invalid. I've seen as much as a 20% variance between a manually open piston, which would be the equal of a variable venturi carb like an FCR, and a test where only the throttle was opened.

You can have a killer engine seal with long cam timings and have what uninformed people would think is piss poor compression.
You can have a shit engine that has a 15% leak down, but short cam timing... and have great static compression numbers.

That's enough for tonight... don't run with scissors kids.
C
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Old 11-15-2006, 04:55 AM   #254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creeper
That's enough for tonight... don't run with scissors kids.
C
C'mon Chris, you know you want to write a perform a leak down test - how to.

About 10+ yr's ago a was thinking of buying a Ducati 900ss (therapy got my past that stage thankfully ). It had around 100K km's (60k miles ?) on the clock so I asked the sales dude if I could get a compression test done. I was thinking of getting an independent evaluation done, but sales dude keen for a sale says sure, we've got a compression tester in the workshop.

He hooks it up to one cylinder and starts the engine up !! and revs it to keep it running .

Lets just say a dry clutched, desmodromic, 1 cylinder v-twin with termignoni pipes sounds like a rock crusher on a bad day . and I didn't by that bike, or any duke.
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Old 11-15-2006, 07:39 AM   #255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjf
C'mon Chris, you know you want to write a perform a leak down test - how to.
Why wait for Hickson to wake up when you can steal it from the 'Net:

Adjust the cylinder to be tested to TDC compression. Plug your tester into an air compressor line and adjust the regulator to get a "0" reading. Screw the hose into the spark plug hole. Connect the two. If the crankshaft turns or you hear all the compressor's air rushing out of an obviously open valve, the cylinder wasn't set exactly on TDC compression. Try again. When you get it right, the piston will stay put and the tool will indicate the amount of air that is escaping from around the rings, valves and head gasket of that cylinder. All cylinders leak a little. Large ones leak more, smaller ones less. Racing cylinders lose only 1 to 2%. Production multicylinder engines in top fiddle pass 5% and less, and no more than 10% regardless of the mileage. More than 10% leakdown means there's something wrong.


Close enuf...
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