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Old 04-14-2013, 07:33 AM   #3766
gunnerbuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kawidad View Post
I talked to Chip Munn and he said that KTM made several design changes to the seals depending on year of production, so the one he sent me is supposedly the correct one, so we'll see.
There is one more seal that sits on the very outside between the shift shaft and the shifter.... This is a V- seal with a flange that flares out when you tighten the shifter in place... This is more of a seal to keep grit from getting into shift/kick shaft rather than keeping oil in the engine... If you have oil leaking out from the end of these shafts then replacing just the outer v-seal likely won't stop it...
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Old 04-14-2013, 01:19 PM   #3767
Tonicu
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Carb issue

Hi there,
It's been a while since my last post. I keep enjoying my 640E '03, what a bike!
There's something wrong with the carb, I guess. The engine runs perfectly ok, but when going up or downhill from, let's say, 15% gradient it seems as if you were running out of gas, and the engine finally stalls to start right away at the first touch of the button.
Float level? I took the carb apart and didn't find anything wrong. Needle ok, no noticeable wear, float ok ...
By the way, removing it is not so difficult, but putting it back in ... oh dear, what a pain!
Tank vents also checked.

Any ideas&similar experience?
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Old 04-14-2013, 03:57 PM   #3768
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonicu View Post
Hi there,
It's been a while since my last post. I keep enjoying my 640E '03, what a bike!
There's something wrong with the carb, I guess. The engine runs perfectly ok, but when going up or downhill from, let's say, 15% gradient it seems as if you were running out of gas, and the engine finally stalls to start right away at the first touch of the button.
Float level? I took the carb apart and didn't find anything wrong. Needle ok, no noticeable wear, float ok ...
By the way, removing it is not so difficult, but putting it back in ... oh dear, what a pain!
Tank vents also checked.

Any ideas&similar experience?
It does sound like a float level problem... If the level is set too low when the bike is on an angle the fuel moves away enough that tips of the jets no longer get the proper supply of fuel... If the level is too high then the same thing happens except the jets take up too much fuel causing a rich stall or bog... Also if your float needle is old it may not fully stop the fuel at the correct bowl level no matter how the float is adjusted. So before you start to mess with the float level run a few tests on the float needle to make sure it does stop the fuel and make sure the float needle seat o-ring is in good shape...
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Old 04-14-2013, 06:18 PM   #3769
Åmme
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Cylinder hight 660 Rally

I'm overhauling a 660 Rally 2002 model in Mongolia and purchased a new cylinder from a friend who have purchased it from e-bay. The original cylinder have a hight of 124.80 mm and the new one 124.20.

It's also different guides 9.8 mm (4 mm original) to engine and 17 mm to head (12.5 mm original)

Any comments would be appriciated
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Old 04-16-2013, 06:23 AM   #3770
Kawidad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerbuck View Post
There is one more seal that sits on the very outside between the shift shaft and the shifter.... This is a V- seal with a flange that flares out when you tighten the shifter in place... This is more of a seal to keep grit from getting into shift/kick shaft rather than keeping oil in the engine... If you have oil leaking out from the end of these shafts then replacing just the outer v-seal likely won't stop it...
Okay, now I'm confused.

The parts diagrams show only an outer seal and an inner o-ring. The outer seal that I got is the v shaped rubber seal, I assume you're talking about. What other seal is there? I'm not seeing it on the parts diagrams.




On a different note:

I just got back from a multi day desert dual sport trip, with oil leak and all. An the shock blew and pissed oil all over the place. Before I explore rebuilding it, I noticed that it appears to be a rather bargain bin WP unit. Is there a possible replacement from another bike that bolts on as an upgrade? (I done it before on other bikes with mixed results.)
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Old 04-16-2013, 07:15 AM   #3771
gunnerbuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kawidad View Post
Okay, now I'm confused.

The parts diagrams show only an outer seal and an inner o-ring. The outer seal that I got is the v shaped rubber seal, I assume you're talking about. What other seal is there? I'm not seeing it on the parts diagrams.




On a different note:

I just got back from a multi day desert dual sport trip, with oil leak and all. An the shock blew and pissed oil all over the place. Before I explore rebuilding it, I noticed that it appears to be a rather bargain bin WP unit. Is there a possible replacement from another bike that bolts on as an upgrade? (I done it before on other bikes with mixed results.)

The seal is there, look on page 20 in the parts book under Kickstarter:

- 9 part# 546 32 090 000 seal ring DH/GR 12x16x3


The W.P. rear shock is not what I would call a bargain bin unit, especially when you compare it to what comes stock on the Japanese DS bikes... You could pick up another WP unit for it from Ebay for a spare and send that one to a suspension shop for new fluid and seals...
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Old 04-16-2013, 07:30 AM   #3772
enduro0125
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I thought my shock blew and it was just the filler cap came loose.

It takes a special tool to get it properly tightened.
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:00 AM   #3773
Tseta
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On the topic of the rear shock, there's even a (yet unindexed ) DIY-shock service thread here on ADV, might be worth checking out...

Cheers,

Tseta
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:05 AM   #3774
Kawidad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerbuck View Post
The seal is there, look on page 20 in the parts book under Kickstarter:

- 9 part# 546 32 090 000 seal ring DH/GR 12x16x3


Okay. Thanks. It looks like I also need part #17 the seal ring too.


The W.P. rear shock is not what I would call a bargain bin unit, especially when you compare it to what comes stock on the Japanese DS bikes... You could pick up another WP unit for it from Ebay for a spare and send that one to a suspension shop for new fluid and seals...

As to the shock.

True dat, about the Japanese dual sports, but not compared to their newer MX units. I said bargain bin compared to higher end suspension components, so maybe dated is a better term.

Sometimes (on other bikes) you can take a high end/more modern donor and re-spring it and you now have a high end/state of the art shock that is good to go and it just bolts right up.
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:08 AM   #3775
Kawidad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tseta View Post
On the topic of the rear shock, there's even a (yet unindexed ) DIY-shock service thread here on ADV, might be worth checking out...

Cheers,

Tseta
Thanks I'll read up on it.
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Old 04-16-2013, 06:00 PM   #3776
gunnerbuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tseta View Post
On the topic of the rear shock, there's even a (yet unindexed ) DIY-shock service thread here on ADV, might be worth checking out...

Cheers,

Tseta
Hi Tseta,

That is a very good thread so it is now in the index part 3...
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:45 PM   #3777
RiverRatRider13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparrowhawk View Post
When I talked to Seat Concepts they said they don't have a seat for the E.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
Well I received my foam and cover from seatconcepts! Turned out great!! Highly recommend it so far, Haven't test rode it yet though..

here are some pics

before and after



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Old 04-17-2013, 08:02 AM   #3778
Kawidad
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Nice
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:50 PM   #3779
tstick14
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Help finding part number

So there I was re-installing my BST after new jets and all. Was "extra" careful with that cheap plastic choke nut, had it all in nice. Started connecting the throttle cables then noticed that the back side of the plastic housing was broken! I started looking and didn't see what I was looking for, can I just replace the plastic house nut, and whats the part #? Check out this video, could we do this with our choke?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4Bi4YWTaqQ
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:02 PM   #3780
mcguyver
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Replacing steering head bearings

Hey all
I am replacing the steering head bearings on my 06.
When seating the the bottom bearing, should it be a tight fit down onto the seal or should there be a bit of freeplay between the seal and the bearing. I have applied about 150 psi of pressure to seat the bearing and am reluctant to apply any more and I still have a bit of freeplay between the seal and the bearing.
Any info appreciated.
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