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Old 04-18-2013, 02:55 AM   #3781
enduro0125
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Old 04-18-2013, 03:22 AM   #3782
TexasDirt
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Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Oddometer: 14
Clutch cable 58402090000

So I broke my clutch cable as I arrived at work tonight.

Has anyone tried or succesfully used an alternative cable to the OEM part(58402090000)? I need to get one on the bike ASAP since it is may primary source of transportation(yes by choice, cars are for sissy's!).
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Old 04-18-2013, 09:00 AM   #3783
Tseta
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Finland
Oddometer: 669
Quote:
Originally Posted by tstick14 View Post
So there I was re-installing my BST after new jets and all. Was "extra" careful with that cheap plastic choke nut, had it all in nice. Started connecting the throttle cables then noticed that the back side of the plastic housing was broken! I started looking and didn't see what I was looking for, can I just replace the plastic house nut, and whats the part #? Check out this video, could we do this with our choke?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4Bi4YWTaqQ

You should have asked this question in the BST-40 Bible Thread (linked on the first page of this Index Thread!), or even better, read through (at least the first page of) that thread, the answer is contained there...

But here's something even better (also contained in the mentioned BST-40 bible thread): http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=555



Cheers,

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Old 04-18-2013, 12:28 PM   #3784
dolphins13
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[QUOTE=TexasDirt;21213252]So I broke my clutch cable as I arrived at work tonight.

Has anyone tried or succesfully used an alternative cable to the OEM part(58402090000)? I need to get one on the bike ASAP since it is may primary source of transportation(yes by choice, cars are for sissy's!).[/QUOTE

There is a simple mod for the clutch cable. I cant find the link? I cant put pictures on here to show you. Basically just use a zip tie and a little piece of tubing (maybe 1.5") To hold the cable against the frame so it dosnt wiggle so much right by the handle. Actually feels smoother? I think? Maybe someone else can help you find link or explain it so you can understand better? I believe the cable will last a lot longer. Not sure how much longer tho?
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Old 04-18-2013, 03:57 PM   #3785
Blue Man
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Location: Oakhills/Phelan California
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2004 640

My buddy has an '04 with 90 miles on it, does anyone know what this thing is worth, been sitting in my shop and now he wants to get it gone.
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Old 04-18-2013, 04:16 PM   #3786
theGrinch
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Man View Post
My buddy has an '04 with 90 miles on it, does anyone know what this thing is worth, been sitting in my shop and now he wants to get it gone.
Pics? which model? does it run?

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Old 04-18-2013, 09:36 PM   #3787
TexScrotumRidesAgain
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Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Illawarra,Australia.
Oddometer: 22
LC4 Rear Hub has CRACKS,is this normal wear&tear?

G'day,I just changed the rear tyre on my 2000KTM LC4 620 Supercomp and(too my HORROR) discovered very fine cracks between the spokes and bearing housing(drive-side)on the outside of the hub,they are in the dished section.

I removed the bearing and gave the inside and outside of the hub a good clean.As far as I can see there are NO cracks inside the hub or on the other side of the hub where the sproket and spokes attach to.In other words the cracks DO NOT go all the way thru.

Now my questions are,is this normal or should I start to pannic.The bike has about 12000kms on it!

Has anybody else experienced this?

Can I get a few more rides out of it(keeping a close eye on the state of the hub)of about 80-100km in lowspeed singletrail?

Or do I risk a complete failure in the middle of no-where?

I should also ad it is NOT a cush drive .

Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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Old 04-18-2013, 09:49 PM   #3788
bmwktmbill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcguyver View Post
Hey all
I am replacing the steering head bearings on my 06.
When seating the the bottom bearing, should it be a tight fit down onto the seal or should there be a bit of freeplay between the seal and the bearing. I have applied about 150 psi of pressure to seat the bearing and am reluctant to apply any more and I still have a bit of freeplay between the seal and the bearing.
Any info appreciated.
How did you apply pressure to the bearing? I've always used the old shell to drive the bearing that was just removed from the oven.

Stick the triple clamp and bearing in the oven to warm things up or use a heat gun, add a little oil where things need to slip together, then use the old shell, a hammer and a punch to set the bearing tight.

Don't cook the seal, get things a little warm.

IMHO.
bill
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Old 04-18-2013, 11:07 PM   #3789
caribooster
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Joined: Oct 2006
Location: Langley & Cariboo, BC
Oddometer: 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by TexScrotumRidesAgain View Post
G'day,I just changed the rear tyre on my 2000KTM LC4 620 Supercomp and(too my HORROR) discovered very fine cracks between the spokes and bearing housing(drive-side)on the outside of the hub,they are in the dished section.

I removed the bearing and gave the inside and outside of the hub a good clean.As far as I can see there are NO cracks inside the hub or on the other side of the hub where the sproket and spokes attach to.In other words the cracks DO NOT go all the way thru.

Now my questions are,is this normal or should I start to pannic.The bike has about 12000kms on it!

Has anybody else experienced this?

Can I get a few more rides out of it(keeping a close eye on the state of the hub)of about 80-100km in lowspeed singletrail?

Or do I risk a complete failure in the middle of no-where?

I should also ad it is NOT a cush drive .

Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Any crack in your wheel is a problem, I would start looking for a new one immediately. If you have a wheel failure in the middle of a corner it could be your last ride forever...!
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Old 04-19-2013, 01:26 AM   #3790
TexScrotumRidesAgain
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Location: Illawarra,Australia.
Oddometer: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by caribooster View Post
Any crack in your wheel is a problem, I would start looking for a new one immediately. If you have a wheel failure in the middle of a corner it could be your last ride forever...!

Don't get me wrong ,I'm taking this very seriously or I would'nt be online trying to sort it out!

It's just that it's the start of my riding season here and this is really inconvenient as I had planned some rides very soon.I thought if there's the chance I could get more info one way or another(this maybe a common prob)

With prices for a second hand wheel going for around $500(and I might still have the same issue)it looks like I'm going to have to source an aftermarket wheel from the states which I can get here (AUS)for less than $450.

I also don't wanna be in the middle of bumfuk with a busted bike!
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Old 04-21-2013, 10:51 AM   #3791
tstick14
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Location: Meridian, ID
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what do all these electrical plugs go to?

I'm going through my bike, which I haven't done since I bought it last year. I'm finding electrical plugs that are unplugged and wonder what they go to and why they're unplugged. I'm not good at electrical diagrams and such so if you guys could look at the pics I posted below and maybe identify them for me?

Black plug pulled out on left and smaller white plug in center as well as single white plug on right above larger white plug set. All were tucked under right frame.



close up of plugs above



Two empty plugs sets under dash facing the bike



Another empty plug under dash from riders position.

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Old 04-21-2013, 12:50 PM   #3792
juames
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Location: Ottawa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tstick14 View Post
I'm finding electrical plugs that are unplugged and wonder what they go to and why they're unplugged.

I have same un-used connectors on mine...from my understand the wiring harness is used on a few different models and not all the connectors are used in each case. And as for the one under the fairing up front, I believe it's for the optional handle bar mounted odometer controls.
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Old 04-21-2013, 01:36 PM   #3793
CSF
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not sure about the ones under the seat... but the 2 2 prong plugs up front are for "accessories" (one of mine goes to a cigarette lighter port installed to supply power to a GPS), and there is a 4 prong plug for the trip master switch if you want to add that. There is a really useful wiring full color diagram floating around here somewhere, if you're interested...
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Old 04-21-2013, 01:48 PM   #3794
clintnz
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Joined: May 2004
Location: Rotoiti, New Zealand
Oddometer: 3,296
Quote:
Originally Posted by tstick14 View Post
I'm going through my bike, which I haven't done since I bought it last year. I'm finding electrical plugs that are unplugged and wonder what they go to and why they're unplugged. I'm not good at electrical diagrams and such so if you guys could look at the pics I posted below and maybe identify them for me?

Black plug pulled out on left...
The black plug with orange seal is for the EPC which has obviously been wisely junked & capped off by the previous owner. I cut that off & sealed the wires up back into the loom.

Pretty sure I also have the other 2 stray connectors there, I would be interested to know what they are for too as I am also having a wiring tidy up & would rather chop off plugs that I will never need than have them hanging there cluttering up the already cramped wiring loom & confusing me when troubleshooting. That 4 pin one under the dash is indeed the tripmaster control - chopped mine off, figured I can solder it back on in the unlikely event of needing it one day - things are much more cramped under the dash of the 640E though.

Cheers
Clint
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Old 04-21-2013, 02:53 PM   #3795
tstick14
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Thanks for the replies about my electrical connectors. The ones up front can be used to wire in heated grips and GPS? I'd like to do that, and if those can be used then that makes it easy.
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