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Old 04-23-2013, 07:43 AM   #3811
Queen of Spades
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What I don't like about the TT speedos is that they are harder to read especially at night. The unit I have for my KX has a light, but you have to press a button - it's not always on. Even then, the light doesn't work very well.
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:12 AM   #3812
mxchamp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Queen of Spades View Post
What I don't like about the TT speedos is that they are harder to read especially at night. The unit I have for my KX has a light, but you have to press a button - it's not always on. Even then, the light doesn't work very well.
The TT Vapor I had on my KTM 520 had the light on at all times while the bike was running. You don't have something wired right.

The back light was very bright and worked great at night.

Maybe time to replace it!?!
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:51 AM   #3813
Kawidad
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Originally Posted by RiverRatRider13 View Post
so does that mechanical trailtech one screw into the pick up on the front wheel?? That sounds like the best way to go! I was planning on making my own mount anyways. I dont need it back to perfect stock
Yes. It is adaptable to several different bike manufacturer standards.

Edit: I looked over the Trail Tech website and I couldn't find it listed anymore. I might not be seeing or it might not be listed any longer. However, Drag Specialities used to produce the same unit, except for their annoying logo on the face. I suspect they are produced in the same factory and just branded differently.
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:03 PM   #3814
meat popsicle OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tstick14 View Post
Is there a picture heavy how-to on rewiring the bike with the 12g wiring? I'm a picture book kind of guy and all this reading doesn't help. I'd like to fix the wiring and get the accessories all plugged in before putting my bike back together.
Replacing the entire wiring harness?!? Not that I'm aware of... but it would be a ton of work.

An alternative is to replace sections that really count, like the headlights, which you can get as a kit from Eastern Beaver and from Daniel Stern Lighting. The Eastern Beaver kit is plug n' play, very easy; the Daniel Stern kit is just the components which you wire together with the wire of your choice (and length).

There is a Daniel Stern Kit for sale as mentioned in this thread:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...0#post21007380

I also used an Eastern Beaver kit to wire my dual horns.
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:32 PM   #3815
tstick14
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Meat thanks for the suggestions, I'm looking to hook in grip warmers a gps plug and maybe improve the lighting. All the talk of fuses and relays makes me dizzy, the Eastern Beaver looks good, just need to figure out what it is I need.
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Old 04-24-2013, 05:52 AM   #3816
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I'm going to be a wiring expert if it kills me! Those of you that have upgraded parts of your wiring (headlights, grip heaters etc.) Are you just adding new wiring to the bike and bypassing the old wiring, or are you removing the old wiring? I'm just going with the assumption that new fuses and relays are being placed in connected to the battery and run separately from the rest of the bikes wiring, and pulling the fuses to the old wires killing those?
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Old 04-24-2013, 05:58 AM   #3817
enduro0125
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IMHO
Using the connecters in the front have worked fine for my heated grips and GPS.

As stated others don't agree but it's worked for me.

I would use a fuse box for headlight upgrades though.
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Old 04-24-2013, 06:18 AM   #3818
dnrobertson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tstick14 View Post
I'm going to be a wiring expert if it kills me! Those of you that have upgraded parts of your wiring (headlights, grip heaters etc.) Are you just adding new wiring to the bike and bypassing the old wiring, or are you removing the old wiring? I'm just going with the assumption that new fuses and relays are being placed in connected to the battery and run separately from the rest of the bikes wiring, and pulling the fuses to the old wires killing those?
Well I'm not a wiring expert, but I have wired up on my 640A:

1. HID lights
2. LED auxillary light (this actually had replaced my HID High)
3. Switches to run LO HID / HI LED together or HID LO/HID HIGH and LED all together. This combo not only lets me see wildlife, but it cooks it for me as well
4. GPS
5. Heated Grips

All this started by running big wires from battery to an Eastern Beaver fuse box mounted between the lights and the dash at the front of the bike. The fuse box is switched on with the key by using one of the "spare" connectors under the dash.

The HID run from the fuse box to relays that are triggered by running wires from the original wiring to the relays as the trigger wire (so the original wires carry very little current).

GPS runs from the fuse box via its own little power switch so I can run the GPS all day (not losing power when I stop) and turn it off at night.

The heated grips also run through the Eastern Beaver fuse box.

Putting the fuse box at the front means short wiring runs for most of my accessories.

Don't ask me for diagrams as it's a rats nest under the dash and I dread if I ever have electrical problems. Documentation is not my strong point.

I started by buying the Eastern Beaver fuse box and wiring that in and then re-wiring the standard lights. The improvement was very noticable. From there, it just sort of snow-balled to the list above.

Good luck.
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:54 PM   #3819
biensur22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnrobertson View Post
I started by buying the Eastern Beaver fuse box and wiring that in and then re-wiring the standard lights. The improvement was very noticable. From there, it just sort of snow-balled to the list above.

Good luck.
That eastern beaver box () is suposed to be really good. But what's the advantage over just a standard fuse block from autozone? Is it waterproof? What am i missing?
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:21 PM   #3820
bmwktmbill
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If you don't want to run a new fuse block you could buy two separate relay wiring harnesses like this...and run the relays from the battery using your existing wiring and switches to trigger them.

http://dx.com/p/waterproof-9006-xeno...FYNx4Aod5XYAVA

The beauty is in case of a failure you will have either hi or lo beam as the systems are separate. Also this one looks like it is plug and play with HID ballasts.

You can use a 3 position toggle to give you both beams vs one beam on hi position and a third position to shut off both lights on low if you use that position to break the low beam ground.

It's pretty simple. Two fuses, Two heavy wire coming forward, two relays, one toggle switch.

Once you get it dialed in it's reliable and stands up to off roading and wet conditions just fine.

Well anyway that's what I did.

My GPS isn't switched. I just turn it off.

My heated grips are another separate system and have their own toggle.


bill
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Old 04-26-2013, 06:00 AM   #3821
Fulano
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starter motor

Have a brand new Rick's Electric KTM starter motor for sale in "Parts" if anyone is interested.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=881904
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Old 04-26-2013, 04:49 PM   #3822
meat popsicle OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biensur22 View Post
That eastern beaver box () is suposed to be really good. But what's the advantage over just a standard fuse block from autozone? Is it waterproof? What am i missing?
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wi...PC-8/pc-8.html
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Old 05-01-2013, 12:36 PM   #3823
Tonicu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerbuck View Post
It does sound like a float level problem... If the level is set too low when the bike is on an angle the fuel moves away enough that tips of the jets no longer get the proper supply of fuel... If the level is too high then the same thing happens except the jets take up too much fuel causing a rich stall or bog... Also if your float needle is old it may not fully stop the fuel at the correct bowl level no matter how the float is adjusted. So before you start to mess with the float level run a few tests on the float needle to make sure it does stop the fuel and make sure the float needle seat o-ring is in good shape...
Thanks, Gunner.
Float and needle doublechecked, o-ring fine ...
It's gone worse, particularly when going downhill, as if too much air -and less fuel- was getting in somehow.
I'll fit a new o-ring, but I don't believe it's the cause of trouble.
What surprises me most is that on pavement there are no bogs, stalls or any trouble whatsoever. Fuel consumption is the same as before, air filter is clean...
Any ideas?
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Old 05-01-2013, 06:10 PM   #3824
gunnerbuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonicu View Post
Thanks, Gunner.
Float and needle doublechecked, o-ring fine ...
It's gone worse, particularly when going downhill, as if too much air -and less fuel- was getting in somehow.
I'll fit a new o-ring, but I don't believe it's the cause of trouble.
What surprises me most is that on pavement there are no bogs, stalls or any trouble whatsoever. Fuel consumption is the same as before, air filter is clean...
Any ideas?
A few things to check would be:
-the venting of your gas cap
- fuel line routing {no kinks}
-water in your fuel
- tear in your slide diaphragm
- check you pilot fuel passageway to make sure it is clear
- check you carb manifold boots for cracks
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:57 PM   #3825
clintnz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tstick14 View Post
I'm going to be a wiring expert if it kills me! Those of you that have upgraded parts of your wiring (headlights, grip heaters etc.) Are you just adding new wiring to the bike and bypassing the old wiring, or are you removing the old wiring? I'm just going with the assumption that new fuses and relays are being placed in connected to the battery and run separately from the rest of the bikes wiring, and pulling the fuses to the old wires killing those?
What I did:

Got an waterproof inline blade fuse holder (30A, same fuses as bike) wired one end to the battery keeping the fuse as close as possible to batt. Ran a decent size wire from that, up left of the frame to under the dash. Zipties, sheathing & heatshrink added where required to stop it getting rubbed.

That wire goes to a standard 30A relay under the dash, switched by the park light feed. The relay powers my heated grips, plus the com system & a powered usb outlet for running gps, charging ph etc. It's a simple setup & has worked well. It has made it easy to power extra farkles by just tapping into the relay. The power all switches off with the ignition & if I want to kill everything with the bike on I just flick the lights off.

I am currently upgading my lighting so am about to add another relay off the main feed from the battery to power high beam - just switched off the high beam feed. To tidy things up I'm going to change to micro relays & put in a mounting block for my 2 relays plus the ignition one. Might add a fourth holder for a spare too.

Cheers
Clint
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