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Old 05-06-2013, 05:47 PM   #3841
gunnerbuck
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: N.V.I, B.C.
Oddometer: 3,837
Quote:
Originally Posted by tstick14 View Post
As posted above, I finished the mods on my carb. Installed everything didn't start, bike started before just ran crappy. I sprayed some starting fluid in and it fired on that. I checked the float drain and fuel came out of that so I know fuel is getting in there. And I know the spark plug and all works being that it fired on starting fluid. I guess drain the float bowl, and try again? That entire carb should be clean, since... well.... I just cleaned it and the fuel is fresh.
If the bike ran crappy before you did these mods and is no better now, I would run a compression test, better yet a leakdown test and make sure your top end is not the cause...
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Old 05-06-2013, 07:02 PM   #3842
slackmeyer
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Location: Berzerkeley, CA
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Originally Posted by tstick14 View Post
As posted above, I finished the mods on my carb. Installed everything didn't start, bike started before just ran crappy. I sprayed some starting fluid in and it fired on that. I checked the float drain and fuel came out of that so I know fuel is getting in there. And I know the spark plug and all works being that it fired on starting fluid. I guess drain the float bowl, and try again? That entire carb should be clean, since... well.... I just cleaned it and the fuel is fresh.
A couple things:
Try the kick start. Not that I can be of much help fixing that, but my bike starts sometimes off the electric starter, but starts very well off the kickstart, 2nd kick almost every time.
Check for the enrichener metering jet. This is kind of an oddball thing, but I just noticed that mine was missing thanks to the bst-40 guide and the question of someone who found a part where it shouldn't have been. The enrichener jet is press fit into the end of the plastic tube that also holds the floats in place. Without removing the carb from the bike, you can unscrew the float bowl screws and take off the bowl, and look at that tube (or take the thing off, as you know it's just an o-ring that keeps it in place once the bowl is off. Should be a brass jet there.
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Old 05-06-2013, 08:20 PM   #3843
tstick14
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Location: Meridian, ID
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Thanks for the extra replies. Snorkel has already been removed and have the racing side cover. Right now the only thing on the bike is the tank and exhaust, so definitely no air restriction. Don't know how to perform compression leak down tests as suggested. Any of you guys live in Boise area? I'm thinking have to pull the carb again check it all, try one more time then take it in after that.
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:21 PM   #3844
Droptarotter
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Cloverdale
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Originally Posted by dolphins13 View Post
Is your snorkel on still? How is the exhaust? Might need to be opened up some? You put in a bigger main jet? I'm no expert but I think you might need to increase airflow? Remove snorkel or get racing side cover and open exhaust some or more? I got my 99 lc4e a year and a half ago. Had to clean carb and replace old gas line. my main jet was a 142.5 and I went to 157.5, removed snorkel and removed the disks from the end of my supertrapp (some drill a bigger hole in the exhaust, mine I think was already done). My bike runs perfect this way and it's not to loud unless you reall get on it. I've driven next to numerous cops. No noise compaint. I am a total noob to this bike or was. I studied the 640 page from beginning to end. Literally months of information on our bikes. Also lots of smart (not so friendly all the time) people with a lot of great advice. I just did what I read and it worked great. Maybe I got lucky? Probably something simple is wrong with your bike?

FU!!!
We're friendly all the time and we will beat you with a stock Supertrap if you say we are not!!
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Old 05-07-2013, 06:35 AM   #3845
Kawidad
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Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Central Coast, Cal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tstick14 View Post
Thanks for the extra replies. Snorkel has already been removed and have the racing side cover. Right now the only thing on the bike is the tank and exhaust, so definitely no air restriction. Don't know how to perform compression leak down tests as suggested. Any of you guys live in Boise area? I'm thinking have to pull the carb again check it all, try one more time then take it in after that.
I agree with Gunnerbuck. Low compression can act like carburation problems. I found out the hard way once. As to help, you might post something up in the regional forums. I know there is a strong ADV contingent in the Boise area. I'm sure some of them would be willing to lend a hand.
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Old 05-07-2013, 06:45 AM   #3846
jrozar
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Location: Vegas Baby!
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Anyone know where I can get an LED taillight for my 06 Adventure?
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Old 05-07-2013, 06:49 AM   #3847
enduro0125
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Location: Orchard Park,NY
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Originally Posted by jrozar View Post
Anyone know where I can get an LED taillight for my 06 Adventure?
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/t...r,1157,21,195:
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:14 AM   #3848
wvrocks
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Elkins, WV
Oddometer: 595
Starting problems

I've been going through all the wiring on my 2000 Adv. When I got it, the low beam didn't work. Turned out the wires were broken inside the insulation. Someone had used some scotch locks and jumpers to mod the wiring so both beams were on. I took all that out, cleaned up the bare wires and reinsulated them.

I decided to wire both lights direct from the battery with 2 relays triggered from the stock high beam wire and the running light wire so that low and high were on at the same time in the high position. Powered the parking light from the stock low beam wiring. All that is buttoned up and working correctly. All other lights on the dash and signals work.

I also replaced a wire to the ignition switch that was frayed and resoldered a loose connection in the switch.

Next step was to replace the broken kill switch lever. I got a used throttle assembly with the switch, dissassembled it and took out the red lever. Put the good red lever in my existing housing and put it all back together. I didn't use the entire new switch because my connector has the wires for the brake light switch tied in to it. The new one only had 4 wires, mine had 6. Anyway, Now the bike won't start with the electric start. I have the tank off but I get spark when I try to kick start.

I can hear the starter relay on the dash click when I move the red lever but get nothing when I hit the starter button. I have power to the starter solenoid from the battery. Although someone put a 10A fuse where the 20A main fuse should be. If I short the posts of the starter solenoid it kicks the starter over. Battery was at 13.11 v when I checked it. I checked the kill switch and starter button for continuity and they are good. Would an issue inside the ignition switch cause the starter solenoid not to fire?

I noticed late last night when i turned the bars that the headlights blinked so I wiggled the ignition switch wiring and they went on and off. Obviously something isn't perfect in there. Considering just ordering a new one as my soldering skills aren't great. Possibly a bad starter solenoid? Is there an easy way to test it? Other ideas?
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wvrocks screwed with this post 05-07-2013 at 07:58 AM
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:08 AM   #3849
Droptarotter
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Cloverdale
Oddometer: 1,152
Quote:
Originally Posted by wvrocks View Post
I've been going through all the wiring on my 2000 Adv. When I got it, the low beam didn't work. Turned out the wires were broken inside the insulation. Someone had used some scotch locks and jumpers to mod the wiring so both beams were on. I took all that out, cleaned up the bare wires and reinsulated them.

I decided to wire both lights direct from the battery with 2 relays triggered from the stock high beam wire and the running light wire so that low and high were on at the same time in the high position. Powered the parking light from the stock low beam wiring. All that is buttoned up and working correctly. All other lights on the dash and signals work.

I also replaced a wire to the ignition switch that was frayed and resoldered a loose connection in the switch.

Next step was to replace the broken kill switch lever. I got a used throttle assembly with the switch, dissassembled it and took out the red lever. Put the good red lever in my existing housing and put it all back together. I didn't use the entire new switch because my connector has the wires for the brake light switch tied in to it. The new one only had 4 wires, mine had 6. Anyway, Now the bike won't start with the electric start. I have the tank off but I get spark when I try to kick start.

I can hear the starter relay on the dash click when I move the red lever but get nothing when I hit the starter button. I have power to the starter solenoid from the battery. Although someone put a 10A fuse where the 20A main fuse should be. If I short the posts of the starter solenoid it kicks the starter over. Battery was at 13.11 v when I checked it. I checked the kill switch and starter button for continuity and they are good. Would an issue inside the ignition switch cause the starter solenoid not to fire?

I noticed late last night when i turned the bars that the headlights blinked so I wiggled the ignition switch wiring and they went on and off. Obviously something isn't perfect in there. Considering just ordering a new one as my soldering skills aren't great. Possibly a bad starter solenoid? Is there an easy way to test it? Other ideas?

So if you short/bypass the starter solenoid, the bike will start??

Sounds like the starter solenoid to me.

Make sure you check the wiring around the steering head as there could be a break in a wire there. Don't just assume it's your soldering skills!

Speaking of soldering skills.............did you use only Rosin cored solder? Acid core will slowly eat all your fine work!!

Cheers
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:51 AM   #3850
wvrocks
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Location: Elkins, WV
Oddometer: 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by Droptarotter View Post
So if you short/bypass the starter solenoid, the bike will start??

Sounds like the starter solenoid to me.

Make sure you check the wiring around the steering head as there could be a break in a wire there. Don't just assume it's your soldering skills!

Speaking of soldering skills.............did you use only Rosin cored solder? Acid core will slowly eat all your fine work!!

Cheers
Thanks, used rosin core. The bike will start right up if I short the solenoid across the top 2 posts. Starter relay seems to be functioning as it clicks when I move the kill switch lever. I'm hoping its just something going on inside the ignition switch not providing power to the Start button.

From the wiring diagram, the Stop/Run switch gets power from the ignition. Since the Starter relay is clicking, I have power from ignition to the Stop/Run Switch and should have it at the E-start button. Need to make sure I didn't mess something up there when I changed the lever. There is a jumper of some sort that takes power from the Stop/Run circuit to the E-start circuit.
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Old 05-07-2013, 09:42 AM   #3851
Alik
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Location: Poznan, Poland
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You can take a part the electrical part of the ignition lock - often with time the wires break, and they pull on the soldering contacts inside that ignition lock cover. Mine were loose and frail causing all sorts of electrical gremlins - I've already soldered them twice. After second time I have glued them over with silicone to prevent it to happen again.

An ignition lock Is also available as an aftermarket accessory from a factory/supplier called VICMA (of Spanish provenience) it looks just like the original one (here is a link http://intermotors.pl/product-pol-98...rmoto-03-.html).
As a bonus You will get also 2 new keys if You decide to change the lock too.
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:11 AM   #3852
wvrocks
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Location: Elkins, WV
Oddometer: 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik View Post
You can take a part the electrical part of the ignition lock - often with time the wires break, and they pull on the soldering contacts inside that ignition lock cover. Mine were loose and frail causing all sorts of electrical gremlins - I've already soldered them twice. After second time I have glued them over with silicone to prevent it to happen again.
Thanks Alik, I did take my ignition switch apart and resoldered the connections. Filled it with silicone as well. I must not have put it back together well though as the lights flash now when you move the wires around.
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:28 AM   #3853
Queen of Spades
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Location: Decatur, GA
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What are people using as an accessory fuse block for headlight/horn rewires?
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Old 05-07-2013, 11:12 AM   #3854
wvrocks
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Location: Elkins, WV
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Originally Posted by Queen of Spades View Post
What are people using as an accessory fuse block for headlight/horn rewires?
The one from Centech or Eastern Beaver look pretty nice. I've used the Centech before on a KLR and had good luck with it.
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Old 05-07-2013, 11:18 AM   #3855
Queen of Spades
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Originally Posted by wvrocks View Post
The one from Centech or Eastern Beaver look pretty nice. I've used the Centech before on a KLR and had good luck with it.
This this the one. Thanks.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wi...3_circuit.html
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