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Old 05-25-2013, 07:40 AM   #3916
Kawidad
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It looks the same as on my 01 640E. I assumed, perhaps wrongly, that is was excessive wear from vibration.
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Old 05-25-2013, 01:22 PM   #3917
slackmeyer
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It's only supposed to have a few teeth for locating on the splines, they don't go all the way around.
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Old 05-25-2013, 04:26 PM   #3918
wrya1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kawidad View Post
It looks the same as on my 01 640E. I assumed, perhaps wrongly, that is was excessive wear from vibration.
Vibes indeed! I was hoping that the kicker only came with a few teeth, they are pricey (200 bucks here in Australia), didn't want to have to return it.

Thanks for the advice!
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Old 05-26-2013, 05:06 AM   #3919
neval8ina308
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Oil in coolant

Hi Guys,

I was doing a service on my '05 KTM 640 SM and noticed the coolant had some oil in it. There wasn't much oil really and it seemed to be mostly in the right radiator with the (cap)


I checked the oil but that seemed fine (no coolant in it, not milky)

I know these bikes weakness is the water pump, but I thought that usually when the seals are going it leaks water into the oil, then as the oil level rises it ends up in the air box. My airbox was clean and oil level was ok as well.

do I need to get it pressure tested? how likely is it to be the head gasket? bike has done 19,000km
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Old 05-26-2013, 06:16 AM   #3920
Lortdadu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neval8ina308 View Post
Hi Guys,

I was doing a service on my '05 KTM 640 SM and noticed the coolant had some oil in it. There wasn't much oil really and it seemed to be mostly in the right radiator with the (cap)


I checked the oil but that seemed fine (no coolant in it, not milky)

I know these bikes weakness is the water pump, but I thought that usually when the seals are going it leaks water into the oil, then as the oil level rises it ends up in the air box. My airbox was clean and oil level was ok as well.

do I need to get it pressure tested? how likely is it to be the head gasket? bike has done 19,000km
I would change the water pump seals and see then if the problem persists.

The previous owner on my bike had two LC4's, and on one of them he had unevenly tightened the cylinder head bolts, which resulted in a very slight bend of the head that could be fixed with machining the gasket surface. I very much doubt that your bike has the same issue, unless one of the bolts has somehow gone loose.

When I got the bike, it would run for about 15 seconds and then make a really big "clack" noise and turn off. What happened was that so much water got into the combustion area and evaporated to such extent due to pressure and heat, that the engine couldn't turn anymore. You should have seen my oil then. The only thing that allowed me to separate it from whipped cream was the coffee color. I had to wash the whole engine and the case halves to make sure it was clean.

So, if your oil is the color it should be and is not different in its viscosity or in any other way different from normal, I would almost instantly rule out the head gasket. If the head gasket would blow, it would also allow the coolant to get into oil. The process of getting rid of the oil/water residue from the engine is huge, so I would test all other possibilities first.
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Old 05-26-2013, 06:35 AM   #3921
Kawidad
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I'm no LC4 expert, but do own one and my money would be on the water pump too.
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Old 05-26-2013, 07:02 AM   #3922
heatmaker
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KTM 640 adv. VRR questions

Sooo my RR gave up the ghost and is charging the battery at 19.7 vdc at idle. I am wondering if I have to use a direct replacement or if I can get away with using one off of a different model. I have known friends that have used Yamaha RR in a VFR with no problems. I am just not sure how these are rated... I am not scared of the wiring ( although I wonder if all the yellow AC wires need to be in phase....) but I do not want to throw good money after bad. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!! Matt
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Old 05-26-2013, 08:55 AM   #3923
meat popsicle OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heatmaker View Post
Sooo my RR gave up the ghost and is charging the battery at 19.7 vdc at idle. I am wondering if I have to use a direct replacement or if I can get away with using one off of a different model. I have known friends that have used Yamaha RR in a VFR with no problems. I am just not sure how these are rated... I am not scared of the wiring ( although I wonder if all the yellow AC wires need to be in phase....) but I do not want to throw good money after bad. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!! Matt
Maybe this is an opportunity to upgrade the system?

Scroll down to Earthscape's post on increasing electrical output:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...t=82712&page=2
read thru the entire thread and maybe look for recent posts by Earthscape because the process evolved - I think he ended up using the RR for the 950.

EDIT: page 6:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...t=82712&page=6
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meat popsicle screwed with this post 05-26-2013 at 09:02 AM
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:31 AM   #3924
Somewhere Far Beyond
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Adjusting high idle RPM for choke?

Hey guys, picked up a nice 2003 640 Adventure a couple weeks ago. Under 5k miles.

My question is, is there a high idle adjustment for when full choke is on? I had an 03 640 Adventure in the past, also bought secondhand, and full choke on that bike was MAYBE about 3k RPM. This one is over 4k, enough to vibrate the sucker around the shop on its own, which I feel is unnecessary. Even on cold mornings, my previous 640 would fire right up full choke around 3k, then I could almost immediately shut it off and she'd go just fine. Of course it was rejetted, but I have no idea what to cause I never messed with it. I just rejetted mine to a 160 main jet and removed the snorkle cause I can't find that KTM airbox cover everyone seems to like. No longer available (unless someone has one they wanna sell?) Also running an SXC Competition muffler.

Maybe I have to adjust free play on the choke so that it's only around 3k fully choked? Is this recommended or is there any reason not to do it that way? Didn't really find any info to support any of this in the link list, but I may have missed it.

Ideas?
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Old 05-26-2013, 11:47 AM   #3925
tdreyer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heatmaker View Post
Sooo my RR gave up the ghost and is charging the battery at 19.7 vdc at idle. I am wondering if I have to use a direct replacement or if I can get away with using one off of a different model. I have known friends that have used Yamaha RR in a VFR with no problems. I am just not sure how these are rated... I am not scared of the wiring ( although I wonder if all the yellow AC wires need to be in phase....) but I do not want to throw good money after bad. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!! Matt
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:34 PM   #3926
bmwktmbill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Somewhere Far Beyond View Post
Hey guys, picked up a nice 2003 640 Adventure a couple weeks ago. Under 5k miles.

My question is, is there a high idle adjustment for when full choke is on? I had an 03 640 Adventure in the past, also bought secondhand, and full choke on that bike was MAYBE about 3k RPM. This one is over 4k, enough to vibrate the sucker around the shop on its own, which I feel is unnecessary. Even on cold mornings, my previous 640 would fire right up full choke around 3k, then I could almost immediately shut it off and she'd go just fine. Of course it was rejetted, but I have no idea what to cause I never messed with it. I just rejetted mine to a 160 main jet and removed the snorkle cause I can't find that KTM airbox cover everyone seems to like. No longer available (unless someone has one they wanna sell?) Also running an SXC Competition muffler.

Maybe I have to adjust free play on the choke so that it's only around 3k fully choked? Is this recommended or is there any reason not to do it that way? Didn't really find any info to support any of this in the link list, but I may have missed it.

Ideas?
Is it a bst40 carb?
If so put some slack in the cable, it will self adjust rpm.

Set idle rpm per the manual.

IMHO.
bill
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Old 05-26-2013, 10:32 PM   #3927
Somewhere Far Beyond
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwktmbill View Post
Is it a bst40 carb?
If so put some slack in the cable, it will self adjust rpm.

Set idle rpm per the manual.

IMHO.
bill
Tis indeed a BST40 carb.

Slack the choke cable, you mean? I'll give it a shot when I'm with the bike in a couple days. Thanks Bill.
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Old 05-27-2013, 07:55 PM   #3928
bmwktmbill
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Originally Posted by Somewhere Far Beyond View Post
Tis indeed a BST40 carb.

Slack the choke cable, you mean? I'll give it a shot when I'm with the bike in a couple days. Thanks Bill.
Normal idle should be 1400-1500 rpm when warm.

The fuel screw is a bitch to get at but it should be set first9opened and closed) for fastest idle. Many threads deal with this.

An example...

http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...347184&page=89

bill
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"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:12 AM   #3929
meat popsicle OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwktmbill View Post
Normal idle should be 1400-1500 rpm when warm.

The fuel screw is a bitch to get at but it should be set first9opened and closed) for fastest idle. Many threads deal with this.

An example...

http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...347184&page=89

bill
Better setup thread:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79898

Idle may want to be higher than 1500 according to Creeper.

Not sure if Stenhouse Racing still has the replacement idle mixture screws that are finger adjustable, but if so they are useful.
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Old 05-28-2013, 02:15 PM   #3930
CuStOm
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Does anyone know of a wider brake pedal available for the 2000 LC4-E? It does not have the newer style with two screws on the top, its the type with one screw and wraps over the arm.
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