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Old 06-03-2013, 07:28 AM   #3961
fastdadio
Still gettin faster
 
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Pinckney Mi.
Oddometer: 1,987
Quote:
Originally Posted by WVhillbilly View Post
Hate to do this, but I have a simple question that always brings on a muti page answer.

I used to run Amsoil in my LC4, can't get it locally now.
I can get about anything else locally tho, except Motorex.

Anyone have any recommendations?



I



Also, my last valve adjustment was about 2K ago. Should it be checked again now?

Has needed no adjustments the last few times clearance was checked, and only needed adjustment once since break in.
Wondering what the real world interval on this should be.
I use Shell Rotella 5-40 full synth. The 5wt aspect seems to greatly reduce the cold clutch drag effect. End of discussion.
Just as a refrence point. My 400 LC4e has needed 1 minor intake valve clearance adjustment in 8500 miles. The book says to check every 3000 miles which is about my seasonal average, so I do check annually. The bike was purchased used and they were in spec at that time. I would rate my riding style as very easy on the engine. YMMV.
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Old 06-03-2013, 07:59 AM   #3962
Kawidad
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Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Central Coast, Cal
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[QUOTE=bmwktmbill;21553227]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kawidad View Post
Okay, so I take the 640E out for a ride yesterday. Forestry road, but rough as all get-out, more like a wide single track with LOTS of rocks. I stop to take a breather and look over the bike and I see the capacitor is just hanging. I look closer and see the mounting bracket is still attached, but the metal base plate has broken off at the weld points.

Is this common?

Second question:

I have an oil leak on the starter gear housing. I tried a work around, but it didn't. I tried to gently pry it off, but it wouldn't budge.

So is there any trick to pulling the cover off?
................................


Kawidad,
I mounted my capacitor to the main frame, and... maybe your SG cover is mounted with some strong gasket sealer cause the o-ring failed.

Gentle heat(heat gun?) and a pry might help.

bill
Thanks Bill. I washed the bike and then pulled it apart to inspect the damage. The tank bracket that is welded to the frame which the capacitor bolts to actually broke at the welds. I was also missing the nut from the back of the gas tank. So, what I suspect is the weight of 18L of gas (at the start of the trip) caused a less than stellar weld to break under the extremely rough conditions I was riding in. I also found that the jagged metal left behind from the break cut into some wiring that had to be repaired also.

I welded it back up myself so we'll see what happens. Now onto the starter gear cover leak.
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Old 06-03-2013, 10:48 AM   #3963
mxchamp
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Joined: Mar 2005
Location: The corn state,11 curves in 318 miles (Iafalls IA)
Oddometer: 1,466
Gentlemen,

My rear shock and spring are totally shot.

No leaking yet but the stock spring is down as far as she will go and when fully loaded for a trip the sag is just too much. No bottoming out but would like better seat height.

I am 260 lbs. without gear.

Please give me some ideas for replacement.

Thanks!
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Old 06-03-2013, 11:02 AM   #3964
meat popsicle OP
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Joined: Feb 2004
Location: Circumlocution Office of Little Dorrit
Oddometer: 14,176
Quote:
Originally Posted by mxchamp View Post
Gentlemen,

My rear shock and spring are totally shot.

No leaking yet but the stock spring is down as far as she will go and when fully loaded for a trip the sag is just too much. No bottoming out but would like better seat height.

I am 260 lbs. without gear.

Please give me some ideas for replacement.

Thanks!
2001 should be a good vintage WP shock - why not rebuild it? If you hadn't already you should get the right spring weight, and perhaps revalve to suit your riding style. Any good shock tuner who knows WP should be able to take care of you.

There are shock threads in the index that here-and-there contain recommendations for tuners around the US.
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Old 06-03-2013, 01:12 PM   #3965
mxchamp
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Location: The corn state,11 curves in 318 miles (Iafalls IA)
Oddometer: 1,466
Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle View Post
2001 should be a good vintage WP shock - why not rebuild it? If you hadn't already you should get the right spring weight, and perhaps revalve to suit your riding style. Any good shock tuner who knows WP should be able to take care of you.

There are shock threads in the index that here-and-there contain recommendations for tuners around the US.
Thanks Meat.

Was hoping Wilber's or Ohlins would have a direct replacement that I could order and slip in place.

That way my bike isn't out of commission for any extended time.
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Old 06-03-2013, 03:39 PM   #3966
Beta450
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Location: El Centro, Ca.
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A good shock service company should have your shock done in about a week. Call around or my guy from San Diego, Ca. George Spinali at 101 suspenders.

I don,t have his number with me but I can pm it if you want to use him or you can search for his web site.
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Old 06-03-2013, 05:09 PM   #3967
mxchamp
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Location: The corn state,11 curves in 318 miles (Iafalls IA)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beta450 View Post
A good shock service company should have your shock done in about a week. Call around or my guy from San Diego, Ca. George Spinali at 101 suspenders.

I don,t have his number with me but I can pm it if you want to use him or you can search for his web site.
Thanks!!!

I need this done before west fest in August!!
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Old 06-03-2013, 08:28 PM   #3968
Beta450
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Here is Georges number 619 997 5193 www.suspension101.com. Easy to work with and backs up his work.
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Old 06-03-2013, 11:44 PM   #3969
bmwktmbill
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Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Traveler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxchamp View Post
Gentlemen,

My rear shock and spring are totally shot.

No leaking yet but the stock spring is down as far as she will go and when fully loaded for a trip the sag is just too much. No bottoming out but would like better seat height.

I am 260 lbs. without gear.

Please give me some ideas for replacement.

Thanks!

This company...

http://www.mx-tech.com/?url=locations

Jeremy was a WP factory race guy for years.
bill


bill
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:25 AM   #3970
mxchamp
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Location: The corn state,11 curves in 318 miles (Iafalls IA)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwktmbill View Post
This company...

http://www.mx-tech.com/?url=locations

Jeremy was a WP factory race guy for years.
bill


bill
Thanks Bill!

That's the ticket right there!!
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:51 AM   #3971
Hipster
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Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Mpls, Mn.
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+1 for MX Tech, they serviced my KTM 990 shock this past winter, they're great people to work with.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwktmbill View Post
This company...

http://www.mx-tech.com/?url=locations

Jeremy was a WP factory race guy for years.
bill


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Old 06-04-2013, 07:23 PM   #3972
wvrocks
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Elkins, WV
Oddometer: 598
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwktmbill View Post
WV,
Had that problem!!
When the tach bounces, crazy as it sounds, your ignition switch, or the connection, is failing.
IMHO.

We can thank Gunnerbuck for that, maybe he will comment.

When I cleaned my ignition switch internally the bouncing stopped.

Follow the tach ground wire on your wiring diagram.

BTW the bouncing drove me crazy.
(Working on your pdf.)

bill
Interesting. I just repaired and cleaned the ignition switch, filled it with silicone so the wires wouldn't wiggle free so easily too. Would a dying battery affect the Tach signal?

Now I've got bigger issues. I went for a ride after work today and the tach was all over the place, worse when I was on the throttle. I rode for about 40 min, stopped at my wife's office. I shut it down and sat on the bike for a minute and noticed that everything was completely dead, no lights, no speedo, no horn, no nothing. I had noticed the Tripmaster fading in and out a bit about a mile before I stopped.

I pulled the seat, and removed the fuses for my headlights. I have the high and low wired direct from the battery with separate fuses. They are wired to come on together on High. Low and parking light are on on Low.

I had been riding at fairly low speeds for most of the ride on tight dirt roads, I think I had the headlights on High the entire time. Last 5 miles was 70mph 4 lane into town.

I borrowed my wife's jumper cables and hooked them to the battery and let it sit for about 20 min. Took the cables off and it was still dead. Hooked them back up and hit the starter and it fired right up. Let it sit and idle for about 15 min, put the seat on and rode home with just the parking light on. Dash lights, Tripmaster, Tach and signals all worked on the way home.

Pulled in the garage and shut the bike down. Turned the key back on, same deal, all dead again. Put it on the battery tender for 2 hrs. Pulled the seat and got out my multimeter and took it off the tender.

Measured at the battery
Everything off, I get 13.16 v.
Key on, Neutral light, parking light, tail light, Tripmaster on, 12.69v
Kill switch on, Hit starter, 3v and a click from the battery area, all lights go out. Tripmaster trip resets to 0 Mi.

If I leave it sit, the dash lights and Tripmaster will slowly come back on. Hit the starter, all goes dead. Lather, Rinse, Repeat.

Fried battery or something else?
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wvrocks screwed with this post 06-04-2013 at 08:07 PM
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Old 06-04-2013, 08:20 PM   #3973
dorkpunch
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Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Blackfoot, ID
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I'm excited, haven't been riding my LC4 a lot in the last couple of years but I've got her all ready to go. Hoping to get some dirt time in this summer!

Before:






and AFTER!








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Old 06-04-2013, 08:24 PM   #3974
dolphins13
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Nice bike. The white actually works.
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Old 06-04-2013, 09:11 PM   #3975
ErikY.
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Location: North of you, probably
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dorkpunch View Post
I'm excited, haven't been riding my LC4 a lot in the last couple of years but I've got her all ready to go.

Looks great!
For some reason I feel compelled to go to 7-11 and buy a Creamsicle. CreamsYcle?
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