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Old 06-29-2013, 03:41 PM   #4051
Droptarotter
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You are not missing anything............the axle should slide out.........I would try more penetrating oil and keep moving the axle back and forth, left to right.

Good luck.
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Old 06-29-2013, 04:16 PM   #4052
enduro0125
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Keep the spacer out,thread the nut back on and hit with a rubber hammer.
It will come out.

Reapply with some good water proof grease.
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Old 06-29-2013, 05:38 PM   #4053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enduro0125 View Post
Keep the spacer out,thread the nut back on and hit with a rubber hammer.
It will come out.

Reapply with some good water proof grease.

That's how I got it as far out as it is. Now it is in the wheel but doesn't want to go further. Maybe I can find something to fit in there to pound it out more.

I tried the freeze out stuff to try to get it to contract.

I will keep at it. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something.

I am glad I am trying this at home cuz I would never be able to do this on the trail.

I clean and grease it up for reassembly. Any chance it might be bent and that is why it is giving me such a hard time?
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Old 06-29-2013, 05:51 PM   #4054
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Just make sure you use a brass punch if you do.

It's possible but not likely that its bent.
I've never seen a rear axle bend.
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Old 06-29-2013, 08:05 PM   #4055
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Tap it back in, lube it, tap it out again, lube it, tap it back in, etc. also twisting it around can help loosen it up too.
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Old 06-29-2013, 09:55 PM   #4056
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Originally Posted by dorkpunch View Post
Tap it back in, lube it, tap it out again, lube it, tap it back in, etc. also twisting it around can help loosen it up too.
Yes this and you might heat the axle and let it cool and have at it again.

Propane or a heat gun.

You could heat the hub, I know I would. Heat will help the oil work/penetrate and weaken corrosion and crud. Stay away from the sprocket carrier and the brake caliper.

For a punch your tool kit has a steel rod but as as already suggested a brass punch is best.

bill
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Old 06-29-2013, 09:57 PM   #4057
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For a punch your tool kit has a steel rod but as as already suggested a brass punch is best.

bill
I picked up my brass punch from a local Ace Hardware store. It wasn't more than a few dollars.
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Old 06-29-2013, 10:04 PM   #4058
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I picked up my brass punch from a local Ace Hardware store. It wasn't more than a few dollars.
For sure. An old guy like me has a drawer full of punches and 10 laying on the bench plus 10 or 20 odd wood pieces/punches and chunks for setting seals and ...you know.

Must have a half dozen old axles and machine bolts.

Actually it's out of control.


b
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Old 06-30-2013, 05:45 AM   #4059
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if you have some good lock pliers, you can grab on to the axle and twist it around a bit to help as well. If you have the brass punch set you can pull on the axle while you hit on the other end with a hammer.

Make sure you clean the areas where the axle is in touch and lube/grease it properly before placing it back.
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Old 06-30-2013, 07:38 AM   #4060
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Thanks for all the tips.

It came out pretty easy this morning. Sitting overnight with all the penetrating oil seemed to do the trick.

Not really any crud in it. I think it was more just lack of grease. I will use plenty in reassembly. I would hate to have to go through that effort if I was trying to change a tube in the middle of no where.
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Old 06-30-2013, 07:43 AM   #4061
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A light sanding with fine grit paper to get rid of any rust and crud before you grease and reinstall would be a good idea too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cjm1219 View Post
Thanks for all the tips.

It came out pretty easy this morning. Sitting overnight with all the penetrating oil seemed to do the trick.

Not really any crud in it. I think it was more just lack of grease. I will use plenty in reassembly. I would hate to have to go through that effort if I was trying to change a tube in the middle of no where.
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Old 06-30-2013, 09:35 AM   #4062
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Talking

Changing oil today and realized the spare filters I have are actually for my tractor, not the pumpkin.

Any chance I'll find an equivalent to the KN-156 at local auto store?
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Old 06-30-2013, 10:07 AM   #4063
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Originally Posted by Queen of Spades View Post
Changing oil today and realized the spare filters I have are actually for my tractor, not the pumpkin.

Any chance I'll find an equivalent to the KN-156 at local auto store?
The asylum to the rescue. Autozone has a puralator ML16817 in stock nearby.
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Old 07-02-2013, 02:57 PM   #4064
laramie LC4
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hey guys, i could use your help. this is a shameless request for your vote.

trying to win an intake system for my 990 and need your vote. please go to this THREAD and make a post for a vote with my member name.

thanks,

laramie
Thanks to those of you who have voted. I'm in the lead with 1 day to go. If you havnt had a chance to vote yet, I'd sure appreciate it.

Thanks,

Laramie
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Old 07-02-2013, 08:13 PM   #4065
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Originally Posted by Lortdadu View Post
if you have some good lock pliers, you can grab on to the axle and twist it around a bit to help as well. If you have the brass punch set you can pull on the axle while you hit on the other end with a hammer

Be careful tugging on that aluminum block or even hitting it, the same piece on my 950 cracked in half and is not sold separately. Your axle is probably rusted on both sides of one of the bearings. Place something heavy like a cloth wrapped 10lb sledge hammer (aka, the BFH) against the swingarm near the aluminum block so all the impact goes into moving the axle and not bowing the arms apart when the whole wheel moves.

Good luck
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