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Old 07-26-2013, 04:54 AM   #4201
muttley92
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Oddometer: 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by WVhillbilly View Post
I bet the seat hasn't softened up yet.



Rich at the bottom, but a dead spot.

Without running it more, it will be hard to judge.

When you have hot start issues does it smell like it's flooded?

It doesn't smell rich, no. I leaned the air screw off half a turn (now 2 turns out) and for reference the jet sizes are 168, 85 and 45 respectively. It is now much easier to start when hot.

I am however worries about cooling. I am running koso RX2N clocks that came with their own temperature sensor. So ot should be correctly calibrated. But it is only 20mm long opposed to the much longer stock one. The temp on the clocks reads 130C before the rad even starts to get warm! I'm wondering if there may be a vapour pocket under the sensor that is throwing off the reading or if the conventional way I've plumbed in the rad is incorrect.

If I'm not mistaken the stock pipes flow to the top of the radiator? Where I have mine flowing into the bottom. Could this cause a significant issue?

Also I have. 1.8 bar cap rather than 1.4.

Many thanks.
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Old 07-26-2013, 08:50 AM   #4202
gunnerbuck
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Location: N.V.I, B.C.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcguyver View Post
Thanks Gunner

Did all most of that put it all back together, turned fuel on Andes pouring out the drain hose at the bottom.
I have obviously put the something I incorrectly. Will pull it all apart again.

Wouldn't be so bad if the carb wasn't such a pain in the ass to get out and back in again.
For sure a float issue, maybe your float needle tip is shot or the float seat O-ring is not working... Check your float height and make sure it is paralell or a little higher than parallel...

I have had lots of practice so it only takes me about 15 minutes to pull the fairing, tank and have the carb in my hand... It does wiggle up between the frame rails, the only things to remove before are the choke cable, TPS + the vent and vacuum hoses... I loosen the front clamp and take the rear one completely off to allow the rubber boot to collapse clear of the airboot bell when you pull the carb back and upward...
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Old 07-26-2013, 03:33 PM   #4203
Tonicu
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Oddometer: 168
Neutral light

Continuing with the problem and possible culprit, I wiggled all the cables under the dash unfortunately without success.
To my surprise, the engine didn't start, just made the typical relais sound as when the battery is almost dead. But it wasn't.
I managed to get it started, and while out for a singletrack quick blast, the engine stalled several times while in 1st gear with almost no throttle. And there ... I saw the light.
The neutral one, I mean.
It lit for about a second, then it went off again.
I happened to use the engine cut switch and saw a hint of light in the neutral led every time I pushed the button. I only noticed it because it was pitch black.
So ... I think Clint was right and I owe him a beer. Anytime, antipodian.
Next step ... dismantling the engine cut-off switch, unless you have a better idea.
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Old 07-27-2013, 04:58 AM   #4204
Queen of Spades
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How much should I pay for a used Akrapovic full system in average condition? There are a few small dents on the header.. not clean.
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Old 07-28-2013, 02:27 AM   #4205
Tonicu
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Question Neutral light ... and more

Further investigation shows a bit more trouble than expected. I didn't find the cause of the unlit neutral light, but I did find this

Brushes were changed only 5K kms. ago, so I don't quite understand this kind of wear.


This explains the relais "click" sound when the brushes got stuck at that damaged copper plate. So I ordered a new starter motor.
Problem sorted out, but ... there were debries here and there




And these bits ... maybe parts of the countershaft bearing with some play I posted a couple of months ago?



The oil plugs looked like this when the oil was changed 500 km. ago.
Apart from that neutral light issue, the bike runs fine, full of performance -and enjoyment - and doesn't burn more oil than say half a liter in the 4 or 5000Kms oil services.


Could this be connected with the great difficulty of starting the bike with the kickstarter, which watching the state of the starter motor probably means it's taking more work than it's supposed to, therefore making me think ... of the sprague clutch. But it should make weird noises, and apart from a rattle sound that disappears as soon as I press the clutch lever, the engine sounds healthy and runs fine. Maybe a bit of an increase on fuel consumption, but I'll put that to the chain&sprockets wearing out.

So you have all info, I replaced an inlet rocker roller bearing ( and every other bearing under the rocker cover for my peace of mind ) 15000 kms ago, and have found some debries on the plugs, but I'd say all that - or most of it - should have been flushed after the first oil service.

Then ... where would you start from?

Tonicu screwed with this post 07-29-2013 at 05:20 AM
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Old 07-29-2013, 05:15 PM   #4206
mcguyver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerbuck View Post
For sure a float issue, maybe your float needle tip is shot or the float seat O-ring is not working... Check your float height and make sure it is paralell or a little higher than parallel...

I have had lots of practice so it only takes me about 15 minutes to pull the fairing, tank and have the carb in my hand... It does wiggle up between the frame rails, the only things to remove before are the choke cable, TPS + the vent and vacuum hoses... I loosen the front clamp and take the rear one completely off to allow the rubber boot to collapse clear of the airboot bell when you pull the carb back and upward...

Thanks Gunnabuck. I am losing patience with this thing. You wouldnt like to come for a nice holiday to Australia would you? You sort my bike out and I will give you a bike to ride around.
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:28 PM   #4207
Queen of Spades
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Did Dirt Rider, Dirt Bike or whoever eles ever test the LC4 Enduro or include it in a dual sport shootout?
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Old 07-30-2013, 02:31 AM   #4208
WVhillbilly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muttley92 View Post
It doesn't smell rich, no. I leaned the air screw off half a turn (now 2 turns out) and for reference the jet sizes are 168, 85 and 45 respectively. It is now much easier to start when hot.

I am however worries about cooling. I am running koso RX2N clocks that came with their own temperature sensor. So ot should be correctly calibrated. But it is only 20mm long opposed to the much longer stock one. The temp on the clocks reads 130C before the rad even starts to get warm! I'm wondering if there may be a vapour pocket under the sensor that is throwing off the reading or if the conventional way I've plumbed in the rad is incorrect.

If I'm not mistaken the stock pipes flow to the top of the radiator? Where I have mine flowing into the bottom. Could this cause a significant issue?

Also I have. 1.8 bar cap rather than 1.4.

Many thanks.
You want to get your coolant pipes routed correctly. You could have an air pocket, or are just not getting a correct reading.
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Old 07-30-2013, 05:06 PM   #4209
HydroDog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Queen of Spades View Post
Did Dirt Rider, Dirt Bike or whoever eles ever test the LC4 Enduro or include it in a dual sport shootout?
CycleWorld had a quick test by Jimmy Lewis back in Dec. 99. He liked the bike and thought the stock suspension was good enough to race Barstow to Vegas.
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Old 07-30-2013, 05:22 PM   #4210
Queen of Spades
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HydroDog View Post
CycleWorld had a quick test by Jimmy Lewis back in Dec. 99. He liked the bike and thought the stock suspension was good enough to race Barstow to Vegas.
That would be my model too.. thanks... off to fleabay.
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Old 07-30-2013, 05:41 PM   #4211
theGrinch
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Question

Put a new earth-x battery in the LC4 and it was taking a minute for the lights to come on (dash and running lights) before it would start. Today I go to start and no light no start. checked fuses and none blown been looking for a short but can't find one.
Any ideas?

this is starting to dive me nuts.

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Old 07-30-2013, 09:55 PM   #4212
meat popsicle OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theGrinch View Post
Put a new earth-x battery in the LC4 and it was taking a minute for the lights to come on (dash and running lights) before it would start. Today I go to start and no light no start. checked fuses and none blown been looking for a short but can't find one.
Any ideas?

this is starting to dive me nuts.

Delayed response to power on? Maybe Luke could help you with that kind of nonsense.
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Old 07-30-2013, 10:06 PM   #4213
bmwktmbill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theGrinch View Post
Put a new earth-x battery in the LC4 and it was taking a minute for the lights to come on (dash and running lights) before it would start. Today I go to start and no light no start. checked fuses and none blown been looking for a short but can't find one.
Any ideas?

this is starting to dive me nuts.

What's the battery voltage?

Are the connections tight?

Do the other functions like horn and lights still work?

b
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Old 07-31-2013, 09:23 AM   #4214
theGrinch
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Cool2

Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle View Post
Delayed response to power on? Maybe Luke could help you with that kind of nonsense.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwktmbill View Post
What's the battery voltage?

Are the connections tight?

Do the other functions like horn and lights still work?

b
Found it, it was the wire that comes from the main fuse off the battery that joins to the voltage regulator and continues on to power the ignition. Had fixed it in the passed but wires are small and heat had caused them to melt again. My guess is they could not take the power from the new battery, plus the bike has been sitting for a year. All is well now, I hope.

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Old 07-31-2013, 08:20 PM   #4215
bmwktmbill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theGrinch View Post
Found it, it was the wire that comes from the main fuse off the battery that joins to the voltage regulator and continues on to power the ignition. Had fixed it in the passed but wires are small and heat had caused them to melt again. My guess is they could not take the power from the new battery, plus the bike has been sitting for a year. All is well now, I hope.

Man, I am happy for you!!!
Easy to imagine the worst.

bill
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'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
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