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Old 03-12-2013, 09:04 AM   #16
brents347
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Otherwise, just go with the obvious answer. Slow down!
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:11 AM   #17
DockingPilot
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:14 AM   #18
CRW OP
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Ah great minds think alike!
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Old 03-12-2013, 11:51 PM   #19
Sumi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ABuck99 View Post
Is there any consensus out there relative to LC8's that replacing stock radiator cap with an uprated (higher) PSI limit will have positive result on reducing boil over, or negative impact on the cooling system?

Most of the late model KTM thumpers come with 1.8 bar/26psi caps. But it seems all years of KTM bikes 690-1190 are only equipped with 1.4bar/20psi caps.

Thoughts?
Some of my friends are using a 1.8 bar cap on their 950/990s.. and it seems to be ok. Also my KTM dealer recommended this and gave me a 1.8 bar cap - but I haven't tried it yet.
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Old 03-13-2013, 05:13 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sumi View Post
Some of my friends are using a 1.8 bar cap on their 950/990s.. and it seems to be ok. Also my KTM dealer recommended this and gave me a 1.8 bar cap - but I haven't tried it yet.
from what model?
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:09 PM   #21
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So had some time with the 950 today.
it dont look good.
pulled the right side faring and noticed a grey sludge stuck to the walls of the reservoir. scraped some out with a Qtip, seemed like coagulated oil. soft and greasy to the touch. Then did the water bottle test with the over flow tube running in to water. Definite bubbles. well got the gaskets(on the bright side) leftover from last winters rebuild.. skipped the head gaskets as they were fine then
wonder if i can pull the heads with out pulling the jugs?????
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Old 03-14-2013, 05:28 AM   #22
RedRupert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRW View Post
Thanks for all the responses.

Yes the cooling system has been flushed!
The bike has the updated head bolts.
The bike never boiled over or over heated!
Checked radiator cap on the trip seemed fine.
I have a hard time to believe its the head gasket as this only happened when I was doing sustained 100mph plus for at a minimum of a hour at a time. No sign of loss of oil or power.

I will try this bottle trick to rule out the head gasket
I know of a 2004 950 ADV that had not had the head nut + washer upgrade carried out. At around 11,000 miles, it was discovered that one of the head gaskets was leaking. The KTM dealer carried out the nut + washer upgrade, but did not replace the head gasket. Around 10,000 miles later, it's still OK.
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Old 03-14-2013, 08:30 AM   #23
snowhawk jockey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRW View Post
So had some time with the 950 today.
it dont look good.
pulled the right side faring and noticed a grey sludge stuck to the walls of the reservoir. scraped some out with a Qtip, seemed like coagulated oil. soft and greasy to the touch. Then did the water bottle test with the over flow tube running in to water. Definite bubbles. well got the gaskets(on the bright side) leftover from last winters rebuild.. skipped the head gaskets as they were fine then
wonder if i can pull the heads with out pulling the jugs?????

That oil slime in the overflow bottle is a sure sign for head gaskets. My other pursuit is destroying subaru wagons off-road. For a decade and a half, headgasket problems have plagued their 2.5l motors. The first sign is always that oil slick in the bottle, with accompanying exhaust smell coming from the little bubbles in the radiator...

Hope the best for your repair! Can the heads come off alone? Don't recall a section in the manual for just pulling the heads.
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Old 03-14-2013, 08:58 AM   #24
Orange Toaster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRW View Post
Definite bubbles. well got the gaskets(on the bright side) leftover from last winters rebuild.. skipped the head gaskets as they were fine then
wonder if i can pull the heads with out pulling the jugs?????
No can do - there is an allen bolt on the underside of the cylinders you can't get to - you have to follow the manual and pull the heads and the cylinders and pistons - it's a big-ish job...
Don't forget new piston clips and head nuts and washers. You don't want to repeat the procedure more than once, trust me...

Good luck
/OT
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:32 AM   #25
CRW OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orange Toaster View Post
No can do - there is an allen bolt on the underside of the cylinders you can't get to - you have to follow the manual and pull the heads and the cylinders and pistons - it's a big-ish job...
Don't forget new piston clips and head nuts and washers. You don't want to repeat the procedure more than once, trust me...

Good luck
/OT
i understand why i would use new nuts and washers. But new piston clips? wont be pulling the pistons off the rods..
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Old 03-14-2013, 10:12 AM   #26
Sumi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRW View Post
i understand why i would use new nuts and washers. But new piston clips? wont be pulling the pistons off the rods..
You should leave the pistons in the cylinders - that's why:)
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Old 03-14-2013, 10:43 AM   #27
RedRupert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRW View Post
i understand why i would use new nuts and washers. But new piston clips? wont be pulling the pistons off the rods..
Why do we need to use new nuts and washers? It does not say to do so in the manual. But they are supplied in the complete gasket set. The M10 nuts are only tightened to 38Nm, which is not enough to do them harm.

Also, why can't we remove the pistons downwards? I've done it and can see no damage, or any way in which it could be caused. I know it's written in the manual, but I can't see why.
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Old 03-14-2013, 05:55 PM   #28
GZERO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRW View Post
So had some time with the 950 today.
it dont look good.
pulled the right side faring and noticed a grey sludge stuck to the walls of the reservoir. scraped some out with a Qtip, seemed like coagulated oil. soft and greasy to the touch. Then did the water bottle test with the over flow tube running in to water. Definite bubbles. well got the gaskets(on the bright side) leftover from last winters rebuild.. skipped the head gaskets as they were fine then
wonder if i can pull the heads with out pulling the jugs?????
Do you know if when they did the TSB before if they checked the heads and the cyl for warp?
take them to a machine shop to check if the heads and cyl have any distortion.
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Old 03-14-2013, 08:26 PM   #29
snowhawk jockey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRupert View Post
Why do we need to use new nuts and washers? It does not say to do so in the manual. But they are supplied in the complete gasket set. The M10 nuts are only tightened to 38Nm, which is not enough to do them harm.

Also, why can't we remove the pistons downwards? I've done it and can see no damage, or any way in which it could be caused. I know it's written in the manual, but I can't see why.
I can't help with the nuts but can say this about LC8 pistons:

The pistons, with rings compressed, only TOP load into the cyl

Leaving the pistons in the cyl means the rings dont get touched

One way or another, you are going to have the pistons protruding from the bottom of the cyl and be circlipping them in/out of the rods.
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Old 03-15-2013, 04:07 AM   #30
RedRupert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowhawk jockey View Post

The pistons, with rings compressed, only TOP load into the cyl
Why?

I said that I've removed them from the bottom (without trouble or visible damage). I've installed them from below, also without damaging them.
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