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Old 12-18-2014, 04:15 PM   #1
ColoradoKen OP
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Laugh 26+ Useful 1190 Farkles ... without going broke

Updated On : 12/22/14
added "almost forgotten" details on various farkles, additional pics, requested info

Priority future farkles (at end of post)
a) ULTIMATE Adventure Riding Suit! ... a Mega $$$"Body Farkle" - only $4,500 (not a typo - linky below)
b) lengthen/improve sidestand
c) wider footpegs

OK ... been saving it up for some kinda giant mega-post thing, so here goes. Hope you'll find something useful, interesting. Sorted from quick, cheap and easy ... to not. Will post pics soon.

1) KTM heated grips .. plug n' play $150

2) Removed side case brackets .. I use soft luggage $0

3) SW Motech Crash Bars .. plug n' play $260

4) Connection for Battery Tender .. plug n' play $10
or Post #12 from Chris_D for a great "no-wiring" alternative

5) Dual-channel wireless controller (First Gear) for heated clothing ... plug n' play $125

6) Hyper-Lite LED Brake Lights .. plug n' play $75

7) Safety wire + duct tape spare key to frame $0

8) Dremo-tool slot in top chain slider to gauge slider wear $0 (you DO have a dremo-tool, right?)



9) Wrapped exhaust, right side (partial wrap only-important!) $35
where leg might get trapped against hot exhaust pipe if bike goes down. wrapping entire exhaust "end-to-end" can be a costly mistake (google it) and not necessary. this stuff works extremely well - so good that wrapping the whole pipe results in heat not being able to escape anywhere and even stainless steels can be damaged as a result.



10) Seal turn signals $5
mine get moisture inside from any manner of rain, washing or just drinking a glass of water nearby. no rubber/foam seal of any type incorporated, just minimal overlapping plastic .. really KTM?

11) Torque rear axle to spec. then drill nut & axle (one side only) for cotter pin $0 (you DO have a drill, right?)
If cotter pin can be fitted = axle nut properly torqued

12) drill bolt heads & safety wire assorted items $1
oil filter cover, both oil screens, lower drain & top bleed screws on radiator (left side), oil filler cap


TIP: On Torx head screws you only need to drill straight through one flat into the inner Torx bit recess (vs at an angle thru 2 flats on a hex head). "Strictly" speaking this wouldn't pass an aircraft level inspection, but for 99.9% of motorcycle applications it works just fine.

13) "Tie" left & right windshield supports together $1
safety wire works perfect as they flex outward only. significantly reduces flexing of supports and windshield "bounce". if you do this be gentle! ... lightly "snug" is all it takes (windshield in place when you do it)


14) Heat shielding to underside of tank & bottom of seat $50
aluminized ceramic cloth, attached with "spots" of silicone sealer spaced a few inches apart. aluminized side facing out.



15) A real horn $15 horn + $10 relay + $10 connectors (Posi-lock or WAGO)
automotive unit, same approx. size/shape as stock ... at least 20X louder. mounting location/manner same as stock. requires relay + fuse. remove stock horn and mounting bracket. *place bracket on paper and mark the 3 hole locations*, then flatten bracket ( **YMMV*** the horn I used was "deeper" than stock by approx. 3/4" and larger diameter as well - so I had to mod mounting bracket - flattened more than I had too ... oh well) , drill new holes in bracket using template, mount new horn in orig. location, connect relay to horn, ground/power source and stock horn connectors... good to go. My bracket has 12 holes in it - as I did NOT make a template BEFORE flattening ... duh.



16) Check/tighten all radiator hose clamps $0
Upper left clamp loose from factory, leaked from this clamp when bike was new (not uncommon). Other hose clamps not sufficiently tightened IMO

17) Torque critical fasteners and paint "witness marks" $5 paint (you DO have torque wrench, right?)
auto body touch-up paint, brush on. Quick visual verification fasteners have been torqued and/or not loosened. I eventually get around to doing most fasteners I can access
*** caution *** re. tightening LARGE Torx fasteners on this bike ... the heads are shallower depth than normal (saves 0.003g/fastener). After nearly stripping 2 while checking torque I discovered the real problem - chamfers (and not that large) on the end of my (quality) Torx socket bits! After grinding this off the problem went away ... mostly. This mod + being absolutely square to the fastener is key.


18) Grind small "tab" off of throttle housing $0
ties housing to brake lever mount (... makes lawyers happy). if you tighten screws properly it will not rotate anyway. allows rotating both independently to where I want them

19) Grind something (?? .. been a year) off left side switch control housing $0
prevents rotation of housing (not critical .. makes lawyers happy). if you tighten screws properly it will not rotate anyway.allows rotating housing where I want it.

20) Extend/improve stock windshield $25
Add extra height + plus overlap channels additional air "behind" the shield for less turbulence. shape outline of flat acyrlic sheet, heat sheet & mold (home oven, use stock shield as form), attach using 3M VHB Tape onto thin wall aluminum square tubing ---- Initially done to see how high an aftermarket shield needed to be. Worked well enough didn't buy one. After re-doing the seat a "Rev 2" is required - higher and widen it a bit as well. So I guess the cost is really $25+.




21) replace countershaft sprocket every 7- 8k miles $35 sprocket + $12 new nut/washer
cheap, relatively easy but dirty, extends life of other components. always good to have an extra nut/washer on hand as neither are "common" sizes/configurations. c/s sprocket is hardest working and fastest wearing component of final drive. each c/s tooth makes 3X the number of contacts with the chain vs tooth on rear sprocket (17T vs 45T). tooth loading on c/s is much higher than on rear sprocket ... fewer teeth must take up the same load. KTM "rubber damped" sprocket way too pricey IMO and I don't notice/hear any difference vs standard style? I use the standard style.

22) Two Pair of Baja Designs Squadron LED's

Pro $420
Sport $230
Skene Controller $60
Relays,switches,connectors (Posi-lock,WAGO) $60
Total: $770 ... and worth every penny!

Hmm, that results in: (1800x2)sport + (4300x2)pro + (1200x2)stock = 10,600 lumens
Adequate for subsonic speeds under most conditions?

Sports controlled by relay
12V key switched power to relay coil

Pros controlled by Skene IQ-175 controller
bike high beam trigger
3 levels of brightness when bikes high beam off
12V key switched power to Skene controller

2 toggle switches on dash to independently enable/disable each pair of LEDs
1 toggle on dash to control modes for high beam LEDs




23) What to do with that near useless "glove compartment"? $0
Works GREAT as a "wiring closet"! Aux led lighting control components (Skene, relay), horn relay, wiring + connectors can all be crammed in there - perfect! 7/8" dia. wiring pass-thru hole into headlight housing space. Can access all aux. control components and connections without having to remove the headlight, crashbars, side covers, tank cover, turn signals and 45 fasteners!



24) *** Fix the fiasco of an airbox ***
$25 - intake snorkel mesh
$30 - coarse foam pre-filter
$5 - airbox lid gasket material

There are aftermarket solutions for hard-core off-roaders, for me suitable mod's were cheaper and effective. My 1190 is a street-gravel-occasional easy dirt road only machine.

1) Mesh intake snorkel filters
not the $$$$, super fine mesh, short KTM ones (too fine mesh and too little surface area IMO. mine are slightly coarser mesh, 5X the length and 1/3 the price. meant to stop bugs, leaves and other large debris only. if they should get totally clogged (very unlikely) I'd just poke a hole in em' and keep riding .. why not! Could be oiled using non-solvent based oil (i.e. No-Toil) increasing its fine particle catching ability, but possibility it would clog quicker too ... depends on your riding conditions.





2) Coarse density oiled foam "pre-filter"
Approx. 1 " thick. Placed ahead of main filter inside airbox AFTER paper filter is installed (don't bugger up the sealing of the stock filter!!) Used this method for many years on dirt bikes, cuts air filter maintenance significantly. you'd be amazed at how much dirt/dust it will hold onto! greatly extends the working life of stock filter with very little - no restriction to incoming air. If it ever became clogged under extreme dust conditions you could access and discard, with a clean paper filter ready-to-go.




3) Foam airbox lid gasket
1/4" - 5/16" automotive headliner material from any auto upholstery shop. Tough cloth on outside resists tearing, foam in between takes up gaps. Cheap, durable, disposable ... just make a new one every time. Would NOT recommend using the "foam only" material with no cloth backing.



critical this gasket spans the interior wall inside the airbox - the one the air filter rests on! along with perimeter of airbox, it is HERE that crappy OEM sealing allows unfiltered air to pass

TIP!
Stripped holes airbox lid screws go into? Who wouldn't trying to get the two halves to seal properly. insert a long thin zip-tie into hole (or thicker one depending on degree of "stripped-ness") get screw started, tigthen about 1/2 way trim zip tie to length, tighten screw fully. BONUS TIP can also use toothpicks, small twigs from tree/bush (seriously, done it!), strips cut from plastic bottles, soda or beer cans etc.

In summary ... a fustercluck design of an airbox.

25) Reshaped seat to "Flatter Than Kansas" and recovered.

$175 Foam-in-place Kit, Memory Foam (good for 2 seat pours)
$80 5/8" gel pad
$40 seat cover material (good for 2 seats)
$40 1" hi-density closed cell foam
$20 materials to build form (re-useable)
Total: $355




medium density foam-in-place memory foam + 5/8" gel pad + high density closed cell foam




Most time consuming part was building a form for the seat pan to use foam-in-place construction - the best way to get shape and flatness I wanted.









Pro's
Pick a spot anywhere along the length of seat front to back, sit a few minutes (depends on outside temperature) and "settle in" to a new comfortable riding position while foam in the previous seating position returns to normal ... sweet!
Con's
With a 34" inseam the "settle in" part needs to happen before I can comfortably "dog-paddle" the bike around while stopped, I can do it but not flat-footed. Even after settling the seat height is higher than stock by 1.5 inch or so. But the other 98% of time spent in the saddle riding is WELL worth the tradeoff for me .. YMMV


26) LAST BUT MOST IMPORTANT?
Ride 13,922 miles ... Colorado, Utah, Wyoming, Arizona, Nebraska, Idaho and Montana ... trouble-free with permanent smile!
$$PRICELESS$$

Woo-hoo .. DAMN, I LOVE THIS BIKE.




27) Last Minute "Forgot About" ...
3M Scotchguard Paint Protection Film: Headlight, upper fork tubes, front fender, leading edge of side covers, tank cover. $50

28) Future Priority Farkles

ULTIMATE Adventure Riding Suit! $4,500
I know the advert. says "BMW 1200GS" ... but keep watching for the Adv. Riding Suit part. No one can top this! You'd be The "Studly King" of your riding group .. wow.
http://youtu.be/_ztsPIoI65A


Sidestand $25 - $75 (est)
Lengthen + add swivel foot with increased surface area + additional "boot tab" higher up (the stock one is a bit of reach for me). It may look cool leaned over 60 degrees with the stocker and all .. but it just wastes my time having to look for a "suitable landing spot" all the time. Stand likely made of 4130 Cro-Moly steel, if welding involved post weld annealing should probably be performed to minimize risk of cracking in use.

WIDER footpegs! $5 - $300
I hate standing up with 1/2 my foot off the pegs unless I do some sort of bow-legged stance thing. Probably weld something on, if I screw it up or don't like it - toss em' and buy some blingy $$ aftermarket item.
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ColoradoKen screwed with this post 12-24-2014 at 06:34 PM
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Old 12-18-2014, 04:28 PM   #2
CaliBerger
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great post!
some pictures of your handywork when you have time please
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Old 12-18-2014, 06:15 PM   #3
dewaynehasty
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Battery tender

I'm curious how you did your battery tender. The one I purchased has a large fuse block which I can't seem to fit in the battery area!
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Old 12-18-2014, 06:16 PM   #4
dewaynehasty
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Horn

Oh and the horn :)
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Old 12-18-2014, 06:34 PM   #5
jon_b
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColoradoKen View Post
1) Mesh intake snorkel filters
not the $$$$, super fine mesh, short KTM ones (too fine mesh and too little surface area IMO. mine are slightly coarser mesh, 5X the length and 1/3 the price. meant to stop bugs, leaves and other large debris only. if they should get totally clogged (very unlikely) I'd just poke a hole in em' and keep riding .. why not!
I would like to know more
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Old 12-18-2014, 07:47 PM   #6
AKjeff
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Great tip on the "glove compartment", thanks.
I was wondering what I was going to use that for.
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Old 12-18-2014, 07:51 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by AKjeff View Post
Great tip on the "glove compartment", thanks.
I was wondering what I was going to use that for.
Only use I've found for it so far is to store my earplugs and a usb plug and lead to charge my phone.
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Old 12-19-2014, 03:18 AM   #8
ZeZeZoom
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I use the 'glove compartment' of my 1190 to keep the highway toll identifier and my garage door command.
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Old 12-19-2014, 08:04 AM   #9
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Excellent post. I like your approach to setting up the bike Vs. just "throwing money" at it. Well done!!


Where did you dremel the slider to make the wear indicator?
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Old 12-19-2014, 08:33 AM   #10
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Pics on their way ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by scudrunner82 View Post
Excellent post. I like your approach to setting up the bike Vs. just "throwing money" at it. Well done!!


Where did you dremel the slider to make the wear indicator?
I'll gather some pics and post them tonight or this weekend for sure, along with a schematic for the wiring of the LED's.

May theory on farkling is "If I screw it up (i.e. seat, windshield) ... oh well ... it was very likely to be replaced anyway". At least I'll know what DOESN'T work.

As long as it doesn't look totally like "WTF is that?" and functions properly I'm good with it
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Old 12-19-2014, 10:23 AM   #11
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I love this post, I expected to click in here and see a bunch of nasty kludges and rigging's, but not at all. One thing that puzzles me is how some people spend big money on a beauty of a bike, then go ahead and hammer on old tin cans and washers and shit to save 5 bucks on buying the aftermarket product, and just ends up looking like total shite.
Yours was none of that, thank you for the great ideas!!
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Old 12-19-2014, 12:11 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by dewaynehasty View Post
I'm curious how you did your battery tender. The one I purchased has a large fuse block which I can't seem to fit in the battery area!

As for the Battery Tender...just buy the cigarette lighter to SAE adapter and plug it directly into the Dash's power outlet. No wiring necessary!
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Old 12-19-2014, 12:19 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHRIS_D View Post
As for the Battery Tender...just buy the cigarette lighter to SAE adapter and plug it directly into the Dash's power outlet. No wiring necessary!
What? Way too simple ... where's the "Farkle Happiness" in that?

Great idea, would've done that .. had I known.
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Old 12-19-2014, 06:17 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scudrunner82 View Post
Excellent post. I like your approach to setting up the bike Vs. just "throwing money" at it. Well done!!


Where did you dremel the slider to make the wear indicator?

pic added to orig post ...

According to inspection instructions in owner manual at 8,000 miles mine was "worn -replace" ... WTF?? Really?

Nope ... not even close. I'm at 14k miles and "plenty of slider left".
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Old 12-19-2014, 10:30 PM   #15
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I would like to know more

Pic added to original post ...

Aquarium supply stores have an amazing selecting of filtration media!

Material is polypropylene and could be oiled using No-Toil Filter Oil (non-solvent based and hot water+powder detergent clean up ... great stuff). Not sure how well polyp. would hold to solvent cleaning.
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