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Old 09-29-2013, 03:18 PM   #271
DirtJack
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Location: San Antonio, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rossguzzi View Post
Great thread. Just stumbled onto it.

My 06 990 Adv has SAS in place and turned on, no charcoal canister, Tune ECU Akra map, secondary butterflies removed, G2 throttle cam and stock air box.
Fairly happy with how it runs but it could be less jerky on off.

My 950 with Rott air filter is silky smooth.

For those that have a 990 and fitted a SW filter, what do you do with the SAS stuff. Or is there a better map that I can load up, then ditch the SAS and put the blanking plates on.

Cheers !
SAS is used only during warm up to provide O2 to help heat the CAT's which you probably don't have since you are running the Akra map. As soon as the O2 sensors are up to proper temperature (if they are on -- by default the Akra map has them off but that can be changed), then the ECU switches to closed loop mode using those sensors to adjust the mixture. After switching to closed loop mode, the SAS valve stays closed. Most people find that keeping the O2 sensors on gives better mileage.

Most 990 owners replace the stock mufflers to get rid of the heat of the CAT. Not having a CAT means you don't need SAS so they take it off. If you run SW's filter you have to find a place to mount the SAS valve if you don't take it off.
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Old 09-29-2013, 05:14 PM   #272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtJack View Post

BTW Doctor_big, no gas smell on my hands after these jetting changes. 990's rock.
Yeah, yeah. Laugh it up.
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Old 09-29-2013, 07:19 PM   #273
rossguzzi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtJack View Post
SAS is used only during warm up to provide O2 to help heat the CAT's which you probably don't have since you are running the Akra map. As soon as the O2 sensors are up to proper temperature (if they are on -- by default the Akra map has them off but that can be changed), then the ECU switches to closed loop mode using those sensors to adjust the mixture. After switching to closed loop mode, the SAS valve stays closed. Most people find that keeping the O2 sensors on gives better mileage.

Most 990 owners replace the stock mufflers to get rid of the heat of the CAT. Not having a CAT means you don't need SAS so they take it off. If you run SW's filter you have to find a place to mount the SAS valve if you don't take it off.
Thanks for that info DirtJack.
I would be really interested to hear how you go with that map your playing with. I have read good things about the Powertripp ones.
I think I tried my Akra map with o2 sencor turned off but it didnt run as nice. I would have to check to see if the SAS is on or off. Im thinking on because I can hear the solinoid clicking when reving the motor. No Cats on mine. Perhaps I should try turning the SAS off.
Good luck with the map !!
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Old 10-04-2013, 01:15 PM   #274
keener
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unstable idle

Anyone else here having unstable idle issue with #45 jets ?

My bike runs well when cold but when it warms up well in a warm day, idle goes up to 2000rpm or so or comes down bellow 1400. Its impossible to keep it at 1400.

I checked the float levels as it was suggested here (see my original post:http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...4#post21920674) . They were a bit off, I set them to exactly 4mm. It got better but still not stable.

I had this issue couple of years ago with H2W jet kit when I put #45 jets in. I replaced it with stock 42 and it became OK. But 45 is recommended here.

I also have lots of popping on deceleration.

Here is my setup :
170/172 mains
45
Factory pro Ti needles on 3rd clip
Floats at 4mm
FMF pipes, SAS removed.
Have FlexJet IMS


Any thoughts?
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Old 10-04-2013, 01:26 PM   #275
Sporting Wood OP
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Swap back down to 42's or drop the needle back to 2... Depending on how high in the rpms that the over rich condition goes. Likely by the way it sounds, I'd drop to the 42 first. Also, for 45's, those are too big of mains imho. I like 163/165 with 45's. Might want to drop there first to see if it makes much difference on the low circuit. It will, though probably not enough. Those are good mains however, for running 42's in my experience.

Every 950 is different. Be patient.
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Old 10-05-2013, 08:27 AM   #276
keener
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sporting Wood View Post
Swap back down to 42's or drop the needle back to 2... Depending on how high in the rpms that the over rich condition goes. Likely by the way it sounds, I'd drop to the 42 first. Also, for 45's, those are too big of mains imho. I like 163/165 with 45's. Might want to drop there first to see if it makes much difference on the low circuit. It will, though probably not enough. Those are good mains however, for running 42's in my experience.

Every 950 is different. Be patient.
G ....thx man I will try thrm all. Good thing I can take the carbs out in 15min

Do you think its because idle is too rich? Turning in the idle mixture doesn't solve the issue.
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Old 10-07-2013, 03:34 PM   #277
Sporting Wood OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keener View Post
G ....thx man I will try thrm all. Good thing I can take the carbs out in 15min

Do you think its because idle is too rich? Turning in the idle mixture doesn't solve the issue.

Think of the fuel screws as fine adjustment.
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Old 10-07-2013, 04:05 PM   #278
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Frequently asked and answered questions. My inbox is getting pounded with these and I thought it would be a good idea to put the answers out in this thread.

I want to clear up some misconceptions regarding the SW7 product.

"Copycat Design?"

The basic baseplate design to utilize an ITG style filter has been around for quite some time. So, in essence, we're all copycats. It was popularized in club and professional road and dirt track racing, various Porsche enthusiast circles, and by experimental aircraft folks.
An example would be Coast Fabrication, a great outfit which has been selling these type of baseplates for many years for numerous applications. The remarkable innovation in the SW7 system is the patent pending sealing method utilizing space-age, custom molded polymer grommets, rather than inexpensive o-rings.

We spec an aviation quality aluminum alloy baseplate for this application due to it's remarkable anti-corrosive properties and fatigue resistance. The plate is precision cut to our CNC specs utilizing a 4000 watt Amada Gemini CO2 laser. The baseplates are then moved into a HAAS CNC milling machine for final machining. The finished baseplate is then hard anodized to a classified milspec. It's bombproof.


"Aluminum heatsoaks!"

Recent misconceptions regarding aluminum baseplate "heatsoak" is non-sensical in this application. The aluminum baseplate weighs under 100 grams, and dumps heat remarkably fast. It heats quickly, but cools quickly. It's one of the fantastic material qualities of aluminum. If the baseplate were required to be significantly more massive, say, for a turbocharged V8 intake plenum, then the mass of the material would be significant, and we'd spec an autoclaved carbon fiber composite.


"Why not a injection molded baseplate?"

It's heavier, not thermally stable, retains heat longer, and in our opinion, perhaps not the most economical and best solution for the application. Our engineering analysis lead us back to aluminum alloys after consulting experts in metalurgy, materials science and thermodynamics and after exploring various composite options.


"Garage Shop?"

Hardly. SW7 is uniqely located in the Technology Corridor of North Carolina. We utilize the most sophisticated, multi-million dollar equipment available on the planet, not antiques. We have hundreds of kits out in the market, and not a single failure or return. We're convinced that our product is not only the least expensive on the market, but the best one on the market. Period.


"How come your product is sigificantly less expensive than your competitors?"

Because we're smart enough to not to have to carry the burden of huge shop overhead, and can take advantage of precision equipment at low cost, we pass the savings and expertly crafted products to you, our customer.

We don't bother with stenciling our name on the ITG filter, applying decals, or engraving our product. It just adds cost. We are motorcycle enthusiasts, like you. We believe you deserve the finest product at the lowest cost. Why spend more?


"Jetting Experts?"

SW7 has spent literally hundreds of hours working with jetting manufacturers to help design a product that works on the carbureted LC8's in the 'real world'. We're here to help your LC8 run like KTM never could.
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Old 10-12-2013, 10:06 PM   #279
Thumper996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sporting Wood View Post
Idle air performs several functions within the carb in addition to supplying idle air to the pilot jet. It's size also determines vacuum pressure inside the fuel bowl. Larger air jets = closer to atmospheric pressure. Smaller = more vacuum. Bumping up to larger not only supplies the idle circuit with more air, which is a good thing, but it does so with the side effect of lowering the pressure within the carburetor, a bad thing. This results in slower response for the needle and sometimes less suction to draw fuel through the main jet, all things being equal. With a restrictive filter, increased vacuum somewhat compensates for this though imho, at the expense of proper atomization, efficiency and fuel mileage...

Using these free flowing setups puts a premium on the need for vacuum. Increasing idle air has a dampening effect on carb operation and seems to drastically move the low end operational parameters in the absence of a restrictive airbox or Uni prefilter. We see a lot more midrange lean issues and tall needle positions to compensate as a result. Not to say more IAJ is totally wrong... There is a certain black magic to getting the balance of air volume to vacuum to fuel correct. A lot of it overlaps and in certain circumstances can be made to work, in the right setup. My experiments showed me though, that it makes far too wide a difference, totally resetting the baseline to which all the rest of the carb is adjusted and shortening the range of idle circuit operation. For my purposes, slight IAJ swap like going from 50 to 52 or 55 is way plenty, more than enough and even then not at all necessary.

Conversely, lowering the float increases air volume making more air available to get sucked up through either circuit without much change in vacuum or complete baseline changes. In other words, this results in leaner low end operation without as much bleed over effect to the main circuit and the speed and rpm at which the needle goes up.

Well after several thousand miles over the summer i gotta say this is the best mod i have done to the bike second to suspension rework. I have decided i am going to give the 50 IAJ's a try again and drop my needle and see where i land. Current setup is 99% what i want, but when stone cold the bike can be a bit of a PITA to start even with enricher's. Have a ever so barely noticeable surge when cruising, i mean i can barley feel it.

I bet based on your EXPERT testing if i drop down to 50 IAJ's and change needles to slot 4 (possibly 3) instead of slot 5 i will fix those two issues.

Current Setup (Aggressive Street Sport Riding):
FMF cans
Part Factory Pro kit and Part H2W kit for my jetting
Main Jets 170R / 168F
Pilot Jet #45
Needles Factory Pro Ti needle 5 position from top
IMS screws 2.5 turns (Flex-Jet installed for easy adjustment)
Air Jet #70 as supplied by H2W to replace stock #50
Float Height 3.5MM
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Old 10-15-2013, 09:49 PM   #280
Hondo
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Location: Denver, Colorado
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Ordered for my 2011 990 Adventure Dakar.

Anyone know what size filterskins to get?
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Old 10-19-2013, 12:03 PM   #281
CMurgel
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what tune ecu map for 2011 A with 2:1 from remus

also want to use this setup but don't know anything about what map would be indicated for my bike and setup.

Have no experience with tune ecu. My bike is stock with a bmc filter and SAS et al.

Thanks for any info

Carlos
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Old 10-19-2013, 12:49 PM   #282
Sporting Wood OP
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Horneytown, NC
Oddometer: 892
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper996 View Post
Well after several thousand miles over the summer i gotta say this is the best mod i have done to the bike second to suspension rework. I have decided i am going to give the 50 IAJ's a try again and drop my needle and see where i land. Current setup is 99% what i want, but when stone cold the bike can be a bit of a PITA to start even with enricher's. Have a ever so barely noticeable surge when cruising, i mean i can barley feel it.

I bet based on your EXPERT testing if i drop down to 50 IAJ's and change needles to slot 4 (possibly 3) instead of slot 5 i will fix those two issues.

Current Setup (Aggressive Street Sport Riding):
FMF cans
Part Factory Pro kit and Part H2W kit for my jetting
Main Jets 170R / 168F
Pilot Jet #45
Needles Factory Pro Ti needle 5 position from top
IMS screws 2.5 turns (Flex-Jet installed for easy adjustment)
Air Jet #70 as supplied by H2W to replace stock #50
Float Height 3.5MM
I'd recommend to get rid of the fat airjets, drop the needle to the middle and dial it in with float height. I personally approach the 950 like this. I swap to 165/168 mains, fp needle at 3, 4mm floats and 45 pilots. If the bike has a hard time accepting the 45s, I'll drop down back to the 42's. I think that the 950's vary a lot due to cam timing tolerance from the factory. The crank turns the counterbalancer, then that turns the cam chain, then theres the hydraulic tensioners that kinda well, suck...not to mention the variation in the location of gear teeth to the cam lobes. Some bikes I have seen have some problems closing the front cylinder quick enough. 8 out of 10 though, run great with the aforementioned baseline. From there, once determining whether or not the 45's will work on the bike, I move to tweaking the mains for top end best hp and afr. Then its on to the needle position, what works best at 4000 rpm to transition. At this point, low end is fine tuned in with the float height. Could be a little lean and need more fuel below 4k, but its more often than not right on with 4mm floats. screws are fine adjusters, I lock the throttle and run at 2000 rpm, turning the screws for best rpm. I have been known to pull a plug and do this to each cylinder individually but its rare.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondo View Post
Ordered for my 2011 990 Adventure Dakar.

Anyone know what size filterskins to get?
AFAIK, there is no filterskin for the big filter. There is one available that fits the domed SE version filter. I don't have them, nor really recommend them. I have used filter skins and they work well enough but I find it tiresome that they clog up so quickly. In baja, its a daily exercise to swap the things on my thumper. For that reason, I think its a better alternative to use another filter that socks over the primary. ITG makes one that I am currently testing with good results. Have some on order and will put them up in the store when they arrive. I like this approach as it is easily cleaned and reused, more cost effective long run and most importantly filters the air properly for a long time before it needs to be cleaned. This filter sock is the same two layer foam as in the filter and thus effectively doubles the filters capacity too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CMurgel View Post
also want to use this setup but don't know anything about what map would be indicated for my bike and setup.

Have no experience with tune ecu. My bike is stock with a bmc filter and SAS et al.

Thanks for any info

Carlos
Tune ECU is reasonably easy. Read the TuneECU thread in the OC. One of my customers is working on a step by step tutorial I will post once its ready. Nice thing about it is that you don't get your hands smelling of gas as you do with jets. Only takes seconds to remap too, which is very nice. I have the components for the wire coming in and I will soon offer the wire at considerable savings to my customers.
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Old 10-19-2013, 05:02 PM   #283
CMurgel
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Location: Campinas Brasil
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Super I will wait when you have everyting: cable, plates, intake and any other goodies.

Carlos

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sporting Wood View Post
I'd recommend to get rid of the fat airjets, drop the needle to the middle and dial it in with float height. I personally approach the 950 like this. I swap to 165/168 mains, fp needle at 3, 4mm floats and 45 pilots. If the bike has a hard time accepting the 45s, I'll drop down back to the 42's. I think that the 950's vary a lot due to cam timing tolerance from the factory. The crank turns the counterbalancer, then that turns the cam chain, then theres the hydraulic tensioners that kinda well, suck...not to mention the variation in the location of gear teeth to the cam lobes. Some bikes I have seen have some problems closing the front cylinder quick enough. 8 out of 10 though, run great with the aforementioned baseline. From there, once determining whether or not the 45's will work on the bike, I move to tweaking the mains for top end best hp and afr. Then its on to the needle position, what works best at 4000 rpm to transition. At this point, low end is fine tuned in with the float height. Could be a little lean and need more fuel below 4k, but its more often than not right on with 4mm floats. screws are fine adjusters, I lock the throttle and run at 2000 rpm, turning the screws for best rpm. I have been known to pull a plug and do this to each cylinder individually but its rare.



AFAIK, there is no filterskin for the big filter. There is one available that fits the domed SE version filter. I don't have them, nor really recommend them. I have used filter skins and they work well enough but I find it tiresome that they clog up so quickly. In baja, its a daily exercise to swap the things on my thumper. For that reason, I think its a better alternative to use another filter that socks over the primary. ITG makes one that I am currently testing with good results. Have some on order and will put them up in the store when they arrive. I like this approach as it is easily cleaned and reused, more cost effective long run and most importantly filters the air properly for a long time before it needs to be cleaned. This filter sock is the same two layer foam as in the filter and thus effectively doubles the filters capacity too.



Tune ECU is reasonably easy. Read the TuneECU thread in the OC. One of my customers is working on a step by step tutorial I will post once its ready. Nice thing about it is that you don't get your hands smelling of gas as you do with jets. Only takes seconds to remap too, which is very nice. I have the components for the wire coming in and I will soon offer the wire at considerable savings to my customers.
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Old 10-20-2013, 09:03 PM   #284
Thumper996
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Oddometer: 592
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sporting Wood View Post
I'd recommend to get rid of the fat airjets, drop the needle to the middle and dial it in with float height. I personally approach the 950 like this. I swap to 165/168 mains, fp needle at 3, 4mm floats and 45 pilots. If the bike has a hard time accepting the 45s, I'll drop down back to the 42's. I think that the 950's vary a lot due to cam timing tolerance from the factory. The crank turns the counterbalancer, then that turns the cam chain, then theres the hydraulic tensioners that kinda well, suck...not to mention the variation in the location of gear teeth to the cam lobes. Some bikes I have seen have some problems closing the front cylinder quick enough. 8 out of 10 though, run great with the aforementioned baseline. From there, once determining whether or not the 45's will work on the bike, I move to tweaking the mains for top end best hp and afr. Then its on to the needle position, what works best at 4000 rpm to transition. At this point, low end is fine tuned in with the float height. Could be a little lean and need more fuel below 4k, but its more often than not right on with 4mm floats. screws are fine adjusters, I lock the throttle and run at 2000 rpm, turning the screws for best rpm. I have been known to pull a plug and do this to each cylinder individually but its rare.
Funny - 168/165 mains 45 pilot and 3rd slot on FP needle was where i was before i put filter kit on. I will go back to that and change the 70's back to 50's and consider float from 3.5mm to 4mm.


Thanks for response and advise
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:09 AM   #285
SpeedyR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper996 View Post
Funny - 168/165 mains 45 pilot and 3rd slot on FP needle was where i was before i put filter kit on. I will go back to that and change the 70's back to 50's and consider float from 3.5mm to 4mm.


Thanks for response and advise
this is where I am. I think I did 168/170, 45's, and middle slot on the FP needles. did floats 4mm (or thereabouts, mine were uneven but seemed to be 4mm average) and it runs great. warms up quickly, and runs solid. I'm about 700' elevation if that matters.
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