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Old 12-05-2013, 04:39 PM   #331
hooliken
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Smithfield, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sporting Wood View Post
+1 as to what mousitsas said. Soap and water combined with compressed air are the safest way to clean the filters out and maximize their lifespan. You may use a dedicated cleaner but do not use any that contain alcohol as this breaks down the foam and glue joints. Same goes for oil, no alcohol based oils like NoToil, except for their new stuff in the green bottle, or any other containing alcohol. The stuff is for drinking. Makes a horrible fuel additive or filter cleaner!

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Originally Posted by mousitsas View Post
cleaner: dishwasher
oil: unifilter oil

Cheers

Dawn and Uni it is.

Today is my Friday and happen to be "contemplating" a Guinness right now.

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Originally Posted by Sporting Wood View Post
Talked to ITG yesterday. The ones they sent were incorrect size so they're remaking them and rushing them to me asap. Unfortunately, ASAP from England means a minimum of 2 weeks. Sorry. Doing the best that I can to hurry them up!

Same thing with Factory Pro. We've ran them out of stock and they have to get more needles made. Should ship Monday to me then as soon as I have more kits I'll get the orders out that day.
No worries. The SE shock is on the opposite coast in rehab. And it is winter, so dust is not a huge concern on the east coast at the moment. Just toss the skin in the mail when you get em.
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Old 12-06-2013, 02:50 AM   #332
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sporting Wood View Post
+1 as to what mousitsas said. Soap and water combined with compressed air are the safest way to clean the filters out and maximize their lifespan. You may use a dedicated cleaner but do not use any that contain alcohol as this breaks down the foam and glue joints. Same goes for oil, no alcohol based oils like NoToil, except for their new stuff in the green bottle, or any other containing alcohol. The stuff is for drinking. Makes a horrible fuel additive or filter cleaner!
I thought notoil oil was OK, just not the cleaner. I used some older NT oil... Am I in trouble?

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Old 12-10-2013, 08:02 AM   #333
mousitsas
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Ok, I tried the 45 slows and 172/170 combination.
FP needles @ #3, 4mm floats, 1.5 turns on the fuel screws, all else stock, sea level, open akras.

Compared to 42 slows and 180/178 seems to runs even stronger, but I noticed a bit of hesitation when I open the throttle at WOT, I close and re-open.

This is a sign of .. what, lean/rich mains?
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Old 12-10-2013, 12:41 PM   #334
SpeedyR
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Location: ATL, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doctor_big View Post
I thought notoil oil was OK, just not the cleaner. I used some older NT oil... Am I in trouble?

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I think you'll be fine. ideally move to the newer version or just let it sit for a bit before you apply it. the older oil uses alcohol as a "solvent" to help distribute the filter oil. this solvent (if I remember correctly) is a problem with the seams on the filter.

I had to clean/oil mine last week before I ride and realized I only had the older oil on hand so that's the second time I've done mine with the older oil with no ill effects. I'll start using the newer version in the very near future to see if I can prolong the life of the filter. I think mine is going to get a workout.
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Old 12-14-2013, 05:25 PM   #335
BigTony
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Hi, I'm in the midst of installing a baseplate and filter and I found Chris included some stick-on thin gaskets in the package. I think it's tight enough without them, but does anyone know the best place to stick these? (i.e., on the tb's, on the bottom of the rubber gasket, top of the rubber gasket, to the trumpet, etc.)

Also, has anyone used the no-toil evolution? It doesn't come in an aerosol and I'm not sure how to apply it properly - any tips appreciated!

Lastly, does anyone have any pictures of routing of the crankcase hose to the countershaft? Do you remove the j shaped piece of hose and attach the blue hose to that?
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Old 12-14-2013, 06:34 PM   #336
xTomKx
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I used the stick on spacers for a tighter fit of the velocity stacks. I put them on the throttle bodies under the plate.

As far as the vent hose goes, route it down the frame to the chain. Mine was just long enough to zip tie behind the output shaft.


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Old 12-14-2013, 09:04 PM   #337
Sporting Wood OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyGibbons View Post
Hi, I'm in the midst of installing a baseplate and filter and I found Chris included some stick-on thin gaskets in the package. I think it's tight enough without them, but does anyone know the best place to stick these? (i.e., on the tb's, on the bottom of the rubber gasket, top of the rubber gasket, to the trumpet, etc.)

Also, has anyone used the no-toil evolution? It doesn't come in an aerosol and I'm not sure how to apply it properly - any tips appreciated!

Lastly, does anyone have any pictures of routing of the crankcase hose to the countershaft? Do you remove the j shaped piece of hose and attach the blue hose to that?
What Tom said above. The gaskets are optional. I have found that there is enough variation between bikes that in most cases my plates fit tight. In some they are loose. The additional gaskets are for those who have a looser fit. The plate should attach firmly and tight to the velocity stacks. If its loose, add the gaskets to the bottom of the plate. No matter if you use the adhesive or not, its just a filler.

These are typically necessary on 950's especially when there has been another aftermarket filter arraignment previously installed. Often these are not manufactured of a soft durometer material and tend to stretch the plastic tabs of the velocity stacks with heat.

Most folks won't need these. Do not make it so tight that the stacks are hard to put on!
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Old 12-18-2013, 06:49 PM   #338
ICERIDER
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Chris, is it possible to get at the fuel screws easily enough under your plate? I'm thinking of fitting screws with the external knurled adjuster rather than Flexjets. Safari Tank. 950 Erzberg.

Thanks for the discount!
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Old 12-20-2013, 09:19 AM   #339
Sporting Wood OP
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Originally Posted by ICERIDER View Post
Chris, is it possible to get at the fuel screws easily enough under your plate? I'm thinking of fitting screws with the external knurled adjuster rather than Flexjets. Safari Tank. 950 Erzberg.

Thanks for the discount!
Only if you have really really tiny hands!
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Old 12-20-2013, 12:58 PM   #340
ManuC
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Joined: Dec 2013
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Hello

I am a newbie from Belgium in the Ardennes near Bastogne....

First tank to SW for his filter and all your comments for the settings.

I have try severals settings and current I have

Mains 170AV/172AR
Needles 3 from the top
Slows 45
floats 4 mm
Screw idle 2.5 turns

I have try 165AV/168AR with 1.75 turns screw idle and have the same surge like Moustisas when close and re-open, now it seams better but with the weather here I can really test it in a long ride.

PS; sorry for my English ....

ManuC screwed with this post 12-20-2013 at 01:24 PM
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Old 12-20-2013, 01:07 PM   #341
ManuC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mousitsas View Post
Ok, I tried the 45 slows and 172/170 combination.
FP needles @ #3, 4mm floats, 1.5 turns on the fuel screws, all else stock, sea level, open akras.

Compared to 42 slows and 180/178 seems to runs even stronger, but I noticed a bit of hesitation when I open the throttle at WOT, I close and re-open.

This is a sign of .. what, lean/rich mains?

I have almost the same setting and I thing it is lean try 2 or 2.5 on the screws idle
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Old 12-20-2013, 02:07 PM   #342
Sporting Wood OP
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Horneytown, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mousitsas View Post
Ok, I tried the 45 slows and 172/170 combination.
FP needles @ #3, 4mm floats, 1.5 turns on the fuel screws, all else stock, sea level, open akras.

Compared to 42 slows and 180/178 seems to runs even stronger, but I noticed a bit of hesitation when I open the throttle at WOT, I close and re-open.

This is a sign of .. what, lean/rich mains?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManuC View Post
Hello

I am a newbie from Belgium in the Ardennes near Bastogne....

First tank to SW for his filter and all your comments for the settings.

I have try severals settings and current I have

Mains 170AV/172AR
Needles 3 from the top
Slows 45
floats 4 mm
Screw idle 2.5 turns

I have try 165AV/168AR with 1.75 turns screw idle and have the same surge like Moustisas when close and re-open, now it seams better but with the weather here I can really test it in a long ride.

PS; sorry for my English ....
Probably rich judging by you guys settings. If it coughs and stumbles, surges then that's typically a sign of lean. A hesitant, lazy throttle is a sign of rich. At what rpm are you getting this?

If its at wot, could also be a sign of a weak fuel pump or partially clogged fuel filter. I mention it as I've seen this already on a couple bikes. Spent some time chasing it and wondering why mains didn't fix it too!

If you find its lean at the top end, that means a bigger main...
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Old 12-20-2013, 02:32 PM   #343
ManuC
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Location: Ardennes Belgium
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sporting Wood View Post
Probably rich judging by you guys settings. If it coughs and stumbles, surges then that's typically a sign of lean. A hesitant, lazy throttle is a sign of rich. At what rpm are you getting this?

If its at wot, could also be a sign of a weak fuel pump or partially clogged fuel filter. I mention it as I've seen this already on a couple bikes. Spent some time chasing it and wondering why mains didn't fix it too!

If you find its lean at the top end, that means a bigger main...
In my case it is not in the top end it is when I close en re)open the thorthle slowly 1/8 open I have a hesitation that is why I think it's the screws fuel
But I don't know if it's to rich or lean...
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Old 12-20-2013, 02:48 PM   #344
Sporting Wood OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManuC View Post
In my case it is not in the top end it is when I close en re)open the thorthle slowly 1/8 open I have a hesitation that is why I think it's the screws fuel
It could be lots of things. The screws though, treat them as a fine adjustment. I tend tonser them in the middle of their range, 1.5 turns out, and adjust the other parameters. If its rich just above idle and below 4500 rpm then its the most common issue we have setting up these carbs. Its all about float height and the pilot jet size. Some bikes simply cannot take the 45 pilots, or it could be that you may have a tight exhaust valve, or you may not have factory airjets installed, or can timing could be a little off, tensioner weak, etc...


I would verify float height as they are a pia to get right. If OK, I may would set a little leaner. Pull the plastic top flange and make sure idle air jets are 80 & 50. Clean float valves... Watch it running w/o the filter and look for whisps of back charge coming out of one of the carbs. If that's the case, adjust the valves good then try everything again. If you have more than the usual valve clatter, check out cam chain tensioners.

If you are encountering rich feeling at 4000 rpm, you may consider dropping the needle to 2 and richen up the floats a little to compensate.

If you simply cannot get the thing to run on the 45's well, drop back to 42 pilots and beef up the mains a few sizes. You may need to lower the float to compensate some too, passing by the target.

Hope it helps and good luck.
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Old 12-20-2013, 03:05 PM   #345
ManuC
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Thanks SW for your implication and reply
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