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Old 03-17-2014, 05:27 PM   #451
hooliken
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Smithfield, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ABuck99 View Post
Funny- I think I saw that face on a wanted poster somewhere....
If it lasts for more than four hours............................
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Old 03-22-2014, 01:03 PM   #452
pizzaboy
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Joined: Dec 2010
Location: Aledo, Texas
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Received my new "sausage" filter for my 950se today . About how much do I need to trim off the velocity stacks to fit under filter ?
Just to confirm, I'm currently running the BMC filter, if bottom plate is not tight, place the sticky side of gasket on throttle bodies and plate on top ?

Thanks
Barclay
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Old 03-23-2014, 06:25 PM   #453
Sporting Wood OP
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Horneytown, NC
Oddometer: 856
Quote:
Originally Posted by pizzaboy View Post
Received my new "sausage" filter for my 950se today . About how much do I need to trim off the velocity stacks to fit under filter ?
Just to confirm, I'm currently running the BMC filter, if bottom plate is not tight, place the sticky side of gasket on throttle bodies and plate on top ?

Thanks
Barclay
Hi Barclay,

The BMC is one of the reasons why I include the optional gaskets. They are made of firm uncompressable silicone and tend to distort and stretch the thermoplastic velocity stacks. Thermoplastic isn't a great idea for such a hot area IMHO...

If you look under the bottoms of the stacks you may find them warped and the prongs stretched. I usually recommend swapping for new ones but as long as they fasten well, you may use the gaskets to fit them up tight. Place the sticky side on the carb side. That way you won't have to fool with them again. Place the plate on top.

As far as trimming the velocity stacks go, I cut off the entire top flange. There are plenty of ways to do this. I set a fence on the table saw and simply spin them off. Cleanup with the belt sander and clean them up. I flame them too. I think I have a pic on the first page of a set. I sell them as a convenience for SE guys.

Chris
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Old 03-23-2014, 10:48 PM   #454
pizzaboy
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Location: Aledo, Texas
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Thanks Chris, got it all installed. I did try the gaskets like you said first but velocity stacks were too tight, couldn't fully lock them in place.
Removed gaskets and perfect snug fit.
I cut the stacks with a dremel, and cleaned them up. Not perfect but should to the trick.
Still need to pick up some filter oil and rejett carbs but I'm 90% there.
Any thoughts on my proposed jetting.. My house is at about 850' elev. with majority of riding 600-1200'. Would like to keep some decent mileage 35+

mains 168/170
Pilot 45
needle 3th position
Float Bowls 4mm




Thanks and looking forward to next weekend
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Old 03-27-2014, 01:04 AM   #455
funkenfresh
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hi will this fit a 990efi superduke?
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Old 03-27-2014, 05:21 AM   #456
Sporting Wood OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pizzaboy View Post
Thanks Chris, got it all installed. I did try the gaskets like you said first but velocity stacks were too tight, couldn't fully lock them in place.
Removed gaskets and perfect snug fit.
I cut the stacks with a dremel, and cleaned them up. Not perfect but should to the trick.
Still need to pick up some filter oil and rejett carbs but I'm 90% there.
Any thoughts on my proposed jetting.. My house is at about 850' elev. with majority of riding 600-1200'. Would like to keep some decent mileage 35+

mains 168/170
Pilot 45
needle 3th position
Float Bowls 4mm




Thanks and looking forward to next weekend
Jet kit otw. Feel free to call with questions.

I have more a process for tuning rather than a recommended setting.
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Old 03-27-2014, 05:22 AM   #457
Sporting Wood OP
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Location: Horneytown, NC
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hi will this fit a 990efi superduke?

Sure will, select the 990 version. Plenty of SD riders have this kit installed and are loving it.
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Old 03-29-2014, 06:50 AM   #458
Jaimoto
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Location: Santiago, Chile
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Hola Chris,

I received my plate and filter for my 990, gift courtesy of Geoff (ICERIDER)
For the ease of going back to stock if I sell the bike, I would like to leave it as close to stock as possible.
Is it possible to install plate and filter without removing the lower part of the airbox? It should cut the installation time big time, and also should provide some protection from debris to TPS, links and stuff down there.
A friend did this, grinding the airbox a bit with a rotary tool. However he made his own plate and used different fasteners so I'm not sure if it will work with yours.
Are you aware of any customer installing the plate this way?
Thanks.
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Old 03-29-2014, 07:34 AM   #459
Sporting Wood OP
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Location: Horneytown, NC
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Originally Posted by Jaimoto View Post
Hola Chris,

I received my plate and filter for my 990, gift courtesy of Geoff (ICERIDER)
For the ease of going back to stock if I sell the bike, I would like to leave it as close to stock as possible.
Is it possible to install plate and filter without removing the lower part of the airbox? It should cut the installation time big time, and also should provide some protection from debris to TPS, links and stuff down there.
A friend did this, grinding the airbox a bit with a rotary tool. However he made his own plate and used different fasteners so I'm not sure if it will work with yours.
Are you aware of any customer installing the plate this way?
Thanks.
Sorry Jaimoto, no. Haven't heard of anyone doing the install w/o removing the air box.

If it were me and this is just an opinion, I'd just take it off. Its one of the great things about the kit, getting that hunk of plastic out of the way so there is easier access and servicing especially for valves and better airflow for a cooler running motor. Its is simple to remove and just as simple to replace later should you want to...which I couldn't ever fathom why.
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Old 03-30-2014, 03:26 PM   #460
corsa996
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Location: Moe Australia
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Airbox in the bin

Jaimoto. Just take the airbox off completely. Its a pain in the ass to work with. Use the SW7 kit and you'll be fine. There's no real downside to using it. Best mod you can do!
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Old 04-08-2014, 03:25 AM   #461
keener
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Toronto, Canada
Oddometer: 896
Riding this spring I noticed I'm not getting a steady power delivery. I feel settle give and take while I hold the rpm at say 5000. It's noticeable in the highway and on low gears in the city.

At first I thought the carb bowl breather hoses are pointed forward or something but it's happening at lower speeds too.

It's a push and pull kinda power delivery from the engine I feel on the seat. It's not smooth. But nothing too annoying.

Any ideas?
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Old 04-09-2014, 05:55 AM   #462
ABuck99
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Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Georgia
Oddometer: 462
Very much liking my SW7 ITG set up overall. What a great performance improvement, best bang for the buck performance and rideability upgrade for the 950, next best would be 16/45 gearing. My thanks to Chris for the patience he demonstrates with all of my tuning questions. He really has a wealth of knowledge when it comes to jetting & these LC8 Keihin CV carbs.

Ive been working through a similar small but noticeable "surge" in that RPM range. It only appears around 1/4-1/3 throttle opening between 5000-5500rpm- steady cruise operation. I can roll on & power through it with out any feeling of surge but if I hang out in that zone I sense it. I experimented with moving up to next size main jets, and also moving clip position from #3 to #4. What this did was reduced the surge effect slightly and moved the surge to 6000-6500rpm- outside my cruise range. But in my quest for perfection, I am still working through eliminating the surge outright. I have borrowed an 02 sniffer to check AFR's but the damn spark arrestors in my exhausts are frozen/rusted solid in the end pipe and I havent been able to get them out yet to do the AFR testing.

Ive been through the carbs carefully measuring (& measuring twice) the float height, replaced the float valves, tried several jetting changes, and finally installed a set of flexjets to make life easier since my fat fingers wont fit under the carbs too well. The only items not addressed on my carb teardown were the air cut valve diaphragms- but I dont know if these would have much effect at steady cruise or 1/4 throttle opening (I think they manage full throttle open condition). Throttle position sensor was checked & adjusted: was .44v now .58v and runs up to 3.76v WOT. Checked the Carb Synch: (all good there). Float chamber vents have individual vent tubes: 250mm/275mm. Recently performed valve check & swapped shims up front from 2.70 to 2.75. I think I've covered all the bases.

My current set up
Garaged Altitude:950 feet (local riding altitude 500-3000 feet)
06 950 S ( 25,500 miles)
Pilots: 45
Mains: 170F/172R
Floats: 4mm
Screws: 1.25/1.0 Turns

Really runs strong every where- starts easily, very little decel pop, good rideability just about everywhere but that little zone,(which I think is maybe due to the needle taper). I especially enjoying the subtle roar of my LC8 now when I whack the throttle- sounds like a nascar
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Old 04-10-2014, 02:11 PM   #463
BoznBlack
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Whats your elevation and mpg? I'm running 42 pilots and 172 mains and getting good results at 2500 feet
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Old 04-19-2014, 03:43 PM   #464
ADV67
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: France
Oddometer: 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by ABuck99 View Post
Very much liking my SW7 ITG set up overall. What a great performance improvement, best bang for the buck ...
I especially love the roar of my LC8 now when I whack the throttle- sounds like a nascar
Great step-up Andrew! The SW7 filter is excellent.
Getting rid of that horrible airbox is really nice too. I did change the sprocket from a 17T to a 16T on my 950SE, this is even more fun and the grin doesn't come off my face when I am riding the beast now.
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Old 04-22-2014, 08:34 AM   #465
renogeorge
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Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Reno
Oddometer: 1,082
Just back from Mexico on my 2007 Adventure, with SW& filter setup and wheel bearings. They worked perfectly.

Finally got around to the FI tuning. Bought the cable and downloaded the free TuneECU program. I had loaded a "free off the internet" map for my setup, whch includes a 2 into 1 exhaust with the ITG foam filter and no airbox. This map worked well from install, although it was a little rich below 3000 RPM.

So, I just made some changes to the F Map in the below 3500 RPM range. It really cleaned up the lower speed area and improved off road rideabilty a bunch.

I am no computer whiz or FI tuning expert. But from my experience, it is not that difficult to make the tuning adjustments needed to maximize performance with this system. I am sure there is more to be gained from a wide band exhaust gas analyzer, dyno time and all of that. At this point I am very happy with the setup I got to with just the $60 cable and Tune ECU.

FWIW
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