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Old 03-16-2013, 02:59 AM   #16
Sand Goanna
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tHEtREV View Post
If you are getting dodgy looking Philips head screws out, give the screw driver a sharp tap or two with a hammer to help seat the driver and loosen the screw a bit...

I think thats what it does anyway...
Touch of valve grinding paste between the surfaces of the screw and driver will also help. LOTS!!
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Old 03-16-2013, 02:59 AM   #17
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Old 03-16-2013, 03:45 AM   #18
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Bearings come witrh basically no grease in them, always pluck the seal cover and add some grease and reseal



then use the old bearing to install


Needle rollers such as in swingarms are very thin walled, a correct size drift is nice, of course not everyone has a lathe!
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Old 03-16-2013, 03:49 AM   #19
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For old school style forks, a broom handle can be jammed into the damper to lock it while removing the lower bolt



then once you have one out, you can determine what size nut you need, and make one up
PS, Suzuki PE250 is 19 mm!

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Old 03-16-2013, 04:07 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by nazza View Post
If something's too hard to fix, flash your tits and some poor sucker will do it for you.
Come over to my place Naz, I will fix everything for you eventually......
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Old 03-16-2013, 04:17 AM   #21
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Old 03-16-2013, 05:43 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidetrack one View Post
Bearings come with basically no grease in them, always pluck the seal cover and add some grease and reseal
With slow moving bearings like head stems and swing arms this is always a good thing, but be careful not to over-fill any bearings in a high speed application. The extra grease drag causes the bearing to overheat and forces the grease out of the seal, then when the bearing cools it sucks the seal in against the bearing race and it will grind and cause early failure. This can happen on any bearing spinning 3000rpm, and higher speeds make it worse. I've seen this a bunch of times on electric motors with high speed stuff (6k rpm) being really bad for it. I don't think a bike wheel will be spinning much more than 1500rpm at 100Kph but it's still a good idea not to pack a sealed bearing too tight.

The little bit of grease that's in the bearings as delivered is the right amount to get the rated life and speed out of the bearing under the conditions used for testing, but that doesn't allow for wash-out which isn't unusual on bikes.

+1 for putting the new bearings in a bag in the freezer. The cold makes the bearing shrink and they drop into location much easier, often with no driving necessary. The same trick can be used for the shaft that goes inside the bearing ... once the bearing has warmed up and expanded again or course.
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Old 03-16-2013, 05:59 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by UncleGra View Post
Yeah..I've used the socket trick before...the new cones were a bit tight to get started and that freezing thing came to mind...couldn't remember whether it was freeze the bearing or freeze the hub...either way I would have been scalded for putting bike parts in freezer...so I just blundered on..
Remember your nuts - whatever freezes, shrinks....
I met a bloke who got divorced because he put some hubcaps in the dishwasher: too bad about the paint-stripper on them - and the gold leaf on the plates that were also in there....
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Old 03-16-2013, 06:13 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by nazza View Post
If something's too hard to fix, flash your tits and some poor sucker will do it for you.
At the risk of sounding as one taking the high moral ground........ it's precisely this perception of us (suckers) blokes that in recent times has made me reluctant to help a woman in need on the road or whatever scenario. Perhaps i'm just another jaded retrosexual.
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Old 03-16-2013, 06:33 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleGra View Post

....so this is where my big idea comes in...which I invented naturally of course.....time for a pic..

Mechanics have been using old bearing races as a makeshift tool for
installing the new races in the hub for many decades. Rather than
split the race usually a slight bit of grinding around the outer circumference
of the old race to prevent it from becoming "stuck" in the hub is the preferred
method. You need to remove maybe .003" from the outer surface.


There are better ways to install the new races, such as using a
tool which is actually designed for the purpose and is made of metal which is
softer than the races or the hub so damage to the hub and races is avoided,
but if you are careful the old race works well enough.


Usually there is no need to use a freezer or that sort of thing because the
interference fit is not that "tight" and a few taps with the correct hammer
will easily seat the new races.


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Old 03-16-2013, 07:13 AM   #26
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Old 03-16-2013, 07:21 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleGra View Post
Nice ti s Na...oops tip Nazza...in the same vain...if you have had a serious accident in a remote area and you dont have a plb, sat phone , spot or the like...if you can make it to your feet..or knees even...just unzip and take a leak...a vehicle will suddenly appear out of nowhere...
Never a truer word spoken !!
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Old 03-16-2013, 08:02 AM   #28
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Old 03-16-2013, 01:48 PM   #29
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When fitting new bearings it is best to freeze the bearing and warm the hub,whatever as each time a new bearing is fitted some metal, just microscopic amounts are removed. Do it enough times there's no longer a resistance fit for your bearing
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Old 03-16-2013, 04:26 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vagueout View Post
At the risk of sounding as one taking the high moral ground........ it's precisely this perception of us (suckers) blokes that in recent times has made me reluctant to help a woman in need on the road or whatever scenario. Perhaps i'm just another jaded retrosexual.
It's okay, I don't flash my tits at dogs anyway. The rspca might arrest me
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