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Old 03-17-2013, 09:41 PM   #76
D_A
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Originally Posted by jtb View Post
Or on electric fences...
But what are we supposed to do with out city cousins if we can't get 'em to do that?
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Old 03-17-2013, 09:56 PM   #77
fallingoff
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buy a rolling tool chest

that way ur tools are next to u

saves time and frustation when ur family/friends

move ur tools.lol

also get into the practice of marking

ur tools

saves hassles

cheers
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Old 03-17-2013, 10:45 PM   #78
BergDonk
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Set the ground rules for access and use of the shed, but don't make it too prominent lest she be reminded of it at the wrong time and gets upset, or something. Who knows what they are thinking?



In case its a bit hard to read, the poster in the middle of the pic says, "This is a men's establishment, females are tolerated only if they refrain from excessive chatter." I have two daughters too........
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Old 03-17-2013, 10:57 PM   #79
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Chain Spiel

Chains wear and get longer as they do, and often wrongly referred to as stretch, which implies some form of elastic recovery, whatever.

A good wear indicator is pulling on the chain, away from the rear of the rear sprocket. If you expose a half tooth or so, itís probably time to spend some $s

Chains can have tight spots, or parts that have worn less, but it can also be an out of round sprocket that is the problem. Adjust when tightest, but if the tight spot moves, its a sprocket problem because one or both are out of round.

Alternatively, or the same depending on your terminology and perception, a chain can have loose spots. They're usually from a link or more wearing more due to a loss of lubrication. These are the weak links that will encourage a chain to break when the pins wear/stress excessively.

Tensile strength is a chain spec, but not necessarily and indicator of life. Other steel properties like ductility and hardness are more relevant, and not readily quoted in specs.

Sealed, O ring type chains are not completely sealed. Chains wear firstly between the pins and bush, which is sealed by the O ring, but then the roller spins on the bush and itís not sealed. The roller then contacts the sprocket and itís obviously not sealed either.



When lubing a chain, lube it on the inside of the run aiming towards the side plates each side to encourage lube to get down between the roller and pin. Then lube is centrifuged out between the side plate and rollers, and then some gets into the roller bush area. Lubing on the outside means some lube gets between the roller and sprocket teeth and the rest gets flung off.

If you donít over lube your chain, cleaning them is unnecessary.

And even if you think cleaning a chain is a good idea, more often than not, and depending on technique, it promotes wear by forcing crud down past the side plates and between the rollers and pin, and can damage the O rings too.

Changing out a counter shaft sprocket at least 3 times to a chain and rear sprocket is a cost effective way of increasing the total life. Cs sprockets wear faster because they have about 1/3 the number of teeth to deal with the same transmission loads as the rear sprocket. They are in effect the weakest link.

Use the biggest cs sprocket you can, more teeth and bigger diameter equals less wear.

Over tightening of chains is chronic in my experience. Regular tightening of your chain likely means you have it too tight to start with. An over tight chain wears it and the sprockets prematurely, and puts extra loads and therefore wear on the wheel bearings, countershaft and countershaft bearing, and compromises the rear suspension operation as the loads are transferred to the engine cases instead of the spring and damper.



Chain adjustment and tension is not dependent on load, just the geometry above. Chains should be adjusted when all 3 pivot points, ie the countershaft, swingarm pivot and rear axle are in line because thatís when the distance from the axle to the countershaft is greatest. Works for all motorcycles with chain or belt drift, even those with a coaxial css.

Modern chains rarely need adjusting. Once they do, its normally time to spend $s
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Old 03-18-2013, 01:30 AM   #80
fayeslane
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On the subject of tools - If you need to borrow something more than once, buy your own. You'll end up with a useful collection of tools and keep your friends
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Old 03-18-2013, 01:55 AM   #81
desert dog
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Eh? tourque wrench

A torque wrench is a tool used to precisely apply a specific torque to a fastener such as a nut or bolt. It is usually in the form of a socket wrench with special internal mechanisms.

A torque wrench is used where the tightness of screws and bolts is crucial. It allows the operator to measure the torque applied to the fastener so it can be matched to the specifications for a particular application. This permits proper tension and loading of all parts.

cheers matty

PS. ya need a fricken manual too.
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Old 03-18-2013, 02:03 AM   #82
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Never lend ANYONE your chain saw!
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Old 03-18-2013, 02:05 AM   #83
D_A
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Never lend ANYONE your chain saw!
and speaking of chainsaws ... bar oil. It's not just for lonely evenings.
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Old 03-18-2013, 02:26 AM   #84
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Originally Posted by D_A View Post
and speaking of chainsaws ... bar oil. It's not just for lonely evenings.
yeh and sharpen/new chains etc.

if ur too tight to do a course

look up on internet

read carefully

might save u a lot of stiches

cheers
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Old 03-18-2013, 03:10 AM   #85
D_A
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Originally Posted by fallingoff View Post
yeh and sharpen/new chains etc.

if ur too tight to do a course

look up on internet

read carefully

might save u a lot of stiches

cheers

If I have a mishap with the Stihl and only need stitches I will consider myself VERY lucky!

Nine hundred bucks for a middle of the range 24" bar chainsaw. Ambulance (road) tops out at about $5500, if you do something really silly ... Learning to use it properly and safely is CHEAP.
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Old 03-18-2013, 03:46 AM   #86
fallingoff
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Originally Posted by D_A View Post
If I have a mishap with the Stihl and only need stitches I will consider myself VERY lucky!

Nine hundred bucks for a middle of the range 24" bar chainsaw. Ambulance (road) tops out at about $5500, if you do something really silly ... Learning to use it properly and safely is CHEAP.
agree +1000
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Old 03-18-2013, 03:47 AM   #87
fayeslane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D_A View Post
If I have a mishap with the Stihl and only need stitches I will consider myself VERY lucky!

Nine hundred bucks for a middle of the range 24" bar chainsaw. Ambulance (road) tops out at about $5500, if you do something really silly ... Learning to use it properly and safely is CHEAP.
http://www.kondiningroup.com.au/web_...ia/FA78-21.pdf

Other pdfs on their website.
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Old 03-18-2013, 03:52 AM   #88
buckscreek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OzJuJu View Post
Never lend ANYONE your chain saw!
Always been a rule:
Never lend anyone your motorbike, your chainsaw or your girl, they'll all come back in the same condition!
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Old 03-18-2013, 04:10 AM   #89
Uncle Crumpet
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When someone offers you a ride on their new bike always accept, and cane the living shit out of it. It will get it out of your system and make your own bike last longer!
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Old 03-18-2013, 04:34 AM   #90
Sleepy John
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Never trust rubber!
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Women and cats will do as they please, and men and dogs should relax and get used to the idea.
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