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Old 04-30-2013, 07:08 PM   #106
Scootern29 OP
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Actually back in them olden days when the canisters wouldn't work, the guys around here would put different fork caps on them and put fitting to be compatible with a centerally located schraeder valve to make sure the air pressure was balanced. The only down fall with the air forks was when you bottomed real hard you could blow the seals and then you got to ride the bike in with no front forks.

I am doing this bike not so much as a rider, but more of somehting I can ride every once and a while. I have plenty of modern bikes to ride. This one is going to go next to my 76 MX 125C so I can look at it. The wife likes it all ready. That is a big bonus.
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Old 04-30-2013, 07:43 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scootern29 View Post
I am doing this bike not so much as a rider...
I do plan on riding my YZ, but my riding is really just cruising around the desert. Occasionally I might catch some BIG AIR (one-to-two feet off the ground). Hope the forks can take the IMPACT.
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:03 PM   #108
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Cool2

Why not just put springs in them? then you know it's balanced and reliable.
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Old 04-30-2013, 09:01 PM   #109
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That was also an option. In those days it was te "new" thing. Obviously it only lasted about a year. I dont' really care either way as mine will not be really put through its paces as there really isn't a class it is competitive in. It is more for my own entertainment on my back porch. People can see it and go WOW, thats a cool bike and I can say yeah it is..............I allways wanted one. LMAO
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Old 05-01-2013, 04:34 AM   #110
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Why not just put springs in them? then you know it's balanced and reliable.
I suppose one could swap for a set off another model such as a YZ250. I've seen a few pairs of YZ250 forks and complete front ends on eBay. I will give my air forks a try but if they cause too many problems I will swap 'em for a set of REAL forks.
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craydds screwed with this post 05-01-2013 at 04:35 AM Reason: y
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Old 05-01-2013, 09:21 AM   #111
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The reason that these fork didn't work back then... too complicated.
The special tool offered by YIC to adjust air pressure was expensive.
I've scoured the web, but have failed to find any photos of it.
It had a fiiting that would screw on to the shrader valve, but would not depress the core/stem of the valve. There was a small "T" shaped screw that was then twisted to open the shrader valve and allow the air pressure to be read. When the "T" shaped screw was backed out after reading/adjusting the pressure, there was no loss of Upper chamber pressure. This was the "Low Loss" tool that was necessary to properly set the air pressure... Specifically, the top chamber due to it's very small volume of air. I you set the top pressure with a stick or dial gauge, most of that pressure would be lost when the gauge was pull off the shrader valve. Blah, Blah Blah....
Clear as mud?
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:51 PM   #112
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valley rider, If you look at about page 2 of this, I used a Fox pump to set the air pressure's. It doesn't let the air out during adjustment. Kinda like the tool you were talking about.

Scootern29 screwed with this post 05-01-2013 at 08:51 PM Reason: spelling
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Old 05-01-2013, 10:27 PM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scootern29 View Post
valley rider, If you look at about page 2 of this, I used a Fox pump to set the air pressure's. It doesn't let the air out during adjustment. Kinda like the tool you were talking about.
Guess I missed that... Great build!!
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Old 05-02-2013, 06:27 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scootern29 View Post
valley rider, If you look at about page 2 of this, I used a Fox pump to set the air pressure's. It doesn't let the air out during adjustment. Kinda like the tool you were talking about.
Cool pump, I want one. But, would it be better to have one schrader valve into a splitter to both chambers? Same on the lower fork tubes. I saw a good set-up for this and now I cannot find it... . I will keep trying.
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Old 05-02-2013, 07:35 PM   #115
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Ray, I have no idea what you are talking about on the lower tubes. These forks did not work that way. They were controled by the canisters and back pressure. Kinda like a pop off valve. You are thinking way too deep into this.
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Old 05-03-2013, 05:13 AM   #116
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Originally Posted by Scootern29 View Post
You are thinking way too deep into this.
I have never been accused nor convicted of thinking.
Two separate upper chambers are pressurized by schrader valves on top:


Lower "chambers" - the fork tubes - are pressurized by the schrader valves at the bottom of the cannisters:


There are four separate "chambers" to pressurize. Can we tie the two upper chambers together with a common tube and one schrader? Same for the lower fork? Something similar to this:
http://www.motorcycleforksairequaliz...nda_models.php . Sorry, don't know how to copy and paste a pic here.
Or, something like this:
https://www.denniskirk.com/air-fork-....prd/58318.sku
It seems like it would be fairly easy to make a set-up like this for both the upper chamber and the fork air pressure. I swear I saw a schrader/hose kit that was simple, probably easy to adapt to our suspension, but I CANNOT find it again.
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craydds screwed with this post 05-03-2013 at 05:15 AM Reason: spell check
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Old 05-03-2013, 04:05 PM   #117
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The only way I know to balance out the air pressure would be to find another set of fork caps that will fit the forks. Put some brass fittings in them and plumb them to a tee with a schraeder valve. The canisters would have to go.
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Old 05-03-2013, 04:10 PM   #118
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This week was a little slow for me physically. In the first photo you can see tape on a couple of toes. One is broken. Yes........ it hurt. I did this on Monday morning about 3 am when I walked into a corner of a wall in the dark middle of the night. OUCH!!!!!

So last night I figured what the hell lets do the rear tire.



Got it to this point in about 5 minutes.



Had a couple of sips on an adult beverage and had it done in about 15 minuts total.

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Old 05-03-2013, 05:14 PM   #119
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Since I was on a roll, this part has been bugging me for a couple of weeks.




When I disassembled the motor I found this Oring on the floor where I was working on the motor. I tried to put it on every shaft and clutch part I could think of. It didn't fit anywhere. So I figured it didn't go to this motor. Then I was surfing around on the Yamaha Enduro site and some member was having a problem with oil being used from the tranny. One of the guys on there asked if he had put the oring behind the crank gear on the clutch side. LIGHT BULB goes off over my head. That is where the Oring came from. So off comes the side case again. And of course you have to take off the footpeg and the rear brake lever to even get to it. Boy is this fun.

Clutch pulled off again. Third times the charm.



Stripped down.




Yep............that's where it goes.



I get it all back together and get ready to put the side cover back on. The gasket was trashed so I had the local bike shop make me a new one as they have the plotter to do it. Wrong gasket so I am dead in the water till they can make a new one. I picked it up today.

More to come.
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Old 05-04-2013, 08:48 AM   #120
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I had been waiting to do this teardown till I received the side cover bolts I had on order from one of my salesmen at work. They also showed up this week. I had also forgotten to install the kick start shaft seal the last time I had the cover off. All the parts ready to go.



Even received this in the mail this week. I picked this up on the bay for $12.95, brandy new NOS cable. The other guy who sent me the wrong cable for $25 wanted $44 bucks for a cable. I guess he wanted me to pay a pretty good price for his screw up.



Putting it back together.



All done, third time is the charm. I could just about do this blindfolded at this point.

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