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Old 09-03-2014, 11:29 AM   #1
akrider OP
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help needed by an electron short gruver

OK all you voltage savvy boys and girls heres my question.

I have a Aerostich Kanetsu windstopper electric liner. Aerostich says that the 2006 and newer BMW CAN-bus outlets are limited to 5.0 amps and the liner draws 5.5 to 5.7 amps, so the CAN-bus shuts down the circuit. My bike is a 2010 GS. Seems that the liner works using the stock outlet. Am I missing something.

Aerostich suggest connecting a fused (10 amp) connection directly off the battery.

So do I add a new connection or wait for my heated liner to shut down mid ride?

Can I get by with a 7.5 amp fuse?

Thanks for the free advice.
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Old 09-03-2014, 12:56 PM   #2
Fast Idle
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Follow Aerostich's recommendation, but a 7.5A fuse would be the right fuse in their pigtail straight to the battery for a 5.7A load. I would not use the 5 amp circuit. If you add gear you change the fuse size for the total load. There should be documentation that came with the liner. Key is their adapter should have a wire size that can handle larger loads. If the CAN-bus is fused at 5 don't change it, the wires may be too small for increased load.
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Old 09-03-2014, 01:41 PM   #3
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Buy what you need from Aerostitch
http://www.aerostich.com/clothing/he...fuse-cord.html
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Old 09-03-2014, 01:43 PM   #4
Tom S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast Idle View Post
Follow Aerostich's recommendation ...
Yeah, what he said. No tellin' what else that CAN-bus thing might shut down.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast Idle
If you add gear you change the fuse size for the total load.
Maybe better yet add a relay for stuff that you want to shut down with the bike so you don't have anything that you might forget to shut off.
I can show you what I did with the Duc. It's real easy & the relay is good for 40 amps.
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Old 09-03-2014, 01:48 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Alaskahack View Post
You can get that stuff locally for much cheaper & no shipping cost.
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Old 09-03-2014, 03:36 PM   #6
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I've often heard it said that you are a few electrons short of an amp, Dennis.

By the way, did you get my PM about D2D dates?

Another option is to use the existing auxiliary port and run new wires with an inline fuse to the battery. I assume you do not have a fuse block. It would not be too much extra work or cash to install a fuse block and bypass CanBus all together. If all else fails find a teenager. Not sure how old AKMud Jr. is, but maybe he's available.
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Old 09-03-2014, 04:06 PM   #7
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I ran a separate fuse box for all of my goodies after hearing about can-bus issues. Buy a small 6 circuit fuse box and run it directly off the battery, you will have no worries.
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Old 09-03-2014, 04:43 PM   #8
Tom S
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Fuse blocks? One or the other of these is all you need & nothing more. Just connect it to the battery. If you have the SAE connector on the elect. liner it makes it even easier.

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Old 09-03-2014, 07:13 PM   #9
legion
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Pigtail off the battery, BMW accessory plug wired directly to the battery, or a John Deere accessory plug wired directly off the battery assuming you've got the BM plug style connectors on your gear.

I wouldn't mess w/ the can bus port as it's not big enough to support the required draw. You could always use it anyway and then just never turn your heated gear's thermostat (rheostat) past a predetermined point that would max out at 5.0A but that's a little more jiggery pokery than necessary. Just go w/ a pigtail connected directly to the batt and be done with it in ten minutes.
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Old 09-03-2014, 09:16 PM   #10
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Gotta love the knowledge found here

A big thanks to everyone who responded. I got the message. A direct line from the battery with an inline fuse it will be.

The liner worked fine on the 1150. Seems the 1200 is more complicated. Haven't used the jacket on the 1200 since I bought it in 2010.

Tom I have the exact hook up you suggested in the tool box. I'll use it.

Got your PM Mr. Huddy. Always the week end with a 20 in it. Hope to see you and Annie there this year. New digs worked out well this year. Miss the street
for the biker games but all is good as is. I'm working on plans for BMW gathering next year. Might have to buy another lower 48 bike.

Thanks again guy and girls. It's getting to be time to fire up the heated gear.
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Old 09-03-2014, 09:42 PM   #11
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as for fuse size... the fuse protects the wire once the accessory fries. it's a pure resistive load, so no inrush current to consider.... I would use a 10A fuse simply because they are common
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Old 09-03-2014, 09:43 PM   #12
Tom S
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Dennis, here's another tip on heat. About that D2D date that Kahudddy mentioned. ... If your wife finds out about her you'll have a hell of lot more heat than you want.
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Old 09-03-2014, 09:54 PM   #13
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If you already have a battery tender pigtail wired to your battery like most folks, you're all set. Put a 10A fuse in its fuse holder, go over to Barb's and get a short adapter pigtail that will adapt the SAE battery tender lead to whatever connector 'stich uses on their vests, and call it a day. Wait until the snow flies to fart around wiring in a dedicated heated gear pigtail, either direct to the battery(via an in line fuse of course), or add in a fuse block. When you do the permanent install, I'd highly recommend adding a heat controller, as it's way more convenient than constantly switching the gear on and off, to stay comfortable.

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Old 09-04-2014, 08:58 PM   #14
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Thanks

Thanks for all the information.

Its done. Wired in a fused SAE plug directly to the battery. Worked out great. I managed to get it to exit to a location that would be in front of my left knee making getting on and off the bike while connected a better deal than the under seat BMW socket.

By the way KHUDDY you can just call me sparky. RED is positive right? Got that ohms law thing figured now.
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Old 09-05-2014, 08:16 AM   #15
Tom S
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Quote:
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... Its done. Wired in a fused SAE plug directly to the battery.
Does it have an off/on switch? Pretty handy. I don't need a heat controller.
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