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View Results: How did your failure happen?
No notice at all ,left me stranded on the spot. 66 22.53%
Noticed a problem ,but was able to ride back to civilazation 106 36.18%
Just checked and felt fine ,but died a few hundred miles later 17 5.80%
Noticed problem,rode bike hundreds of miles without total failure 104 35.49%
Voters: 293. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 07-12-2005, 07:44 AM   #16
Mike Butt
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Ouch

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeO
Noticed a resonant 'thrumming' throught the handlebars for a couple of hundred miles. This disappeared and then I started getting weird feelings from the rear wheel (not unlike a puncture). Eventually, some 30 miles later (I was in the middle of nowhere and had to reach civilisation) the rear wheel started moving laterally - locking momentarily on occasion (I was doing <10mph by now). I eventually reached a town , put the bike on the side stand and...



Took the wheel off back at Jorge's place to find...



The wheel had moved about sufficiently to gouge metal out of the rear disc and caliper carrier (hence the intermittent lock-ups).

Mike
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Old 07-12-2005, 10:00 AM   #17
MikeO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Berlien
Ouch
Quite.
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Old 07-12-2005, 10:19 AM   #18
Steptoe
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Wink

In emergencies/ long trips, You can fix this problem by the side of the road -

Take a spare bearing and seal with you - you probably won't need the seal -


wheel and rear brake caliper off - undo the bevel case - ( you can leave the abs sensor in place)



Pull the cover off, be careful that the crownwheel doesn't drop out of the case onto the floor


you may have crap like this inside - you may have nothing



Push the crown wheel gear out from the cover - it's only the seal holding it in place





This bearing is toast - but there was no play at all in the rear wheel, just a vibration and rumble when the wheel was rotated




The hardest part is removing the old bearing, you can do it with a couple of small braod faced drifts, keep hitting it around the edges under the bearing and it will gradually lift - obviously don't worry about damaging the old bearing : )

Put the new bearing on the exhaust down pipes, with the engine running, while your removing the old bearing - you want it very hot

when it's very hot ( if there are a few bikes, take it in turns to move the bearing from one bikes exhaust to another ) take the bearing and drop it onto the crown wheel - if it's hot enough, it'll just drop all the way down -



Sorry, image shack has decided to go off line, i'm missing lots of pictures - i'll post the rest later -
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Old 07-12-2005, 10:36 AM   #19
marathonpaul
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Thumb Very nice summary

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steptoe
In emergencies/ long trips, You can fix this problem by the side of the road - -
Nice summary!! Its not rocket science, and no worse than trying to fix flat (like when you have to pull the tire from the rim).

Thanks for showing what a simple job this is.

$.02
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Old 07-12-2005, 10:40 AM   #20
Tourmeister
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Howdy,

First came this...



Then about 4 miles later...





No rumble or funny vibrations, just a sudden violent shuddering in the rear as the wheel flopped eccentricly around the shaft. Major pucker factor. The dealer replaced the bearing under warranty. The worst part is that I was leading a ride for a rally I had organized... The ribbing lasted a longggg time and I still get teased about it. Bike had 28K on it when it blew. 02 model. Has about 45K on it now and no further problems as of yet. I have to admit though that I always have that nagging doubt in the back of the mind. This has been getting louder as I prepare to leave for a week of DS riding in Southwestern Colorado...

I have heard that there is an inspection or cleaning that can be done that might stave off the impending doom. Anyone know anything about that?
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Old 07-12-2005, 10:49 AM   #21
Steptoe
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why did you carry on when the oil was coming out ?


this usually means the bearings collapsed, and taken out the seal -

On all the bearings i've ever changed, you could always feel a rumble or vibration when turning the wheel
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Old 07-12-2005, 11:17 AM   #22
Steptoe
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image shack is back on line -

bearing drops straight back on the crown wheel - if it doesn't you'll have to take it off and get it hotter - SO if it doesn't want to drop on all the way,take it off and heat it up hotter -





Put the cover over the crown wheel ( use the old shim ) and replace in the opposite way you removed all the parts .

If the seal wasn't leaking - leave the old seal in place, including the large outer cover "O" ring , you don't want to be messing around doing a perfect workshop job, you just want to carry on with your trip, or get to where your going. Then you can do the proper job.
Even if you can't do it yourself, take a bearing and seal with you ( takes up no space and very little money) , you'll always be able to find a workshop that can do the job, if you've got the correct bearing and seal to hand.
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Old 07-12-2005, 12:16 PM   #23
Tourmeister
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Quote:
why did you carry on when the oil was coming out ?
Like the poll said, we were in the middle of nowhere... I checked the final drive oil and it was still completely topped off. And since there was no grinding or any other syptoms, I was hoping to make it back to our base at a subdued pace. It appeared to be a slow leak. Apparently, the bearing had already started coming apart enough to tear the seal. Oddly, it was smooth right up to the moment it let go, and at that time, it was still full of oil. So I don't think a lack of lubrication was the issue. I did not realize the bearing failure would be so sudden. Lesson learned.
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Old 07-12-2005, 06:09 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tourmeister
it was smooth right up to the moment it let go
It may have felt smooth to your back end, but I bet that your right hand would have felt the roughness 1000 miles earlier.

Steptoe, thanks a lot for the pictures! I can attest that the whole procedure is doable as Steptoes says, and that the only hard part is to drive the old bearing out. A bit of side-road desperation would have easily taken care of the problem.
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Old 07-12-2005, 06:44 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeO

Took the wheel off back at Jorge's place to find...



The wheel had moved about sufficiently to gouge metal out of the rear disc and caliper carrier (hence the intermittent lock-ups).

Mike
That is sooooooo ugly.
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Old 07-12-2005, 08:36 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steptoe



Even if you can't do it yourself, take a bearing and seal with you ( takes up no space and very little money) , you'll always be able to find a workshop that can do the job, if you've got the correct bearing and seal to hand.
ok part numbers would be GREAT help to us GS noobs......If i have those...order goes in tomorrow

thanks for the great info....easing my mind on the GS reliability
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Old 07-18-2005, 01:51 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steptoe
Even if you can't do it yourself, take a bearing and seal with you ( takes up no space and very little money) , you'll always be able to find a workshop that can do the job, if you've got the correct bearing and seal to hand.
Is there an aftermarket part number for these? I checked with NAPA on this FAG bearing and they couldn't cross it. The dealer is selling me theirs for $120. Kinda pricey. Thanks for the instructions on doing the job!
Fate
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Old 07-19-2005, 02:35 PM   #28
Steptoe
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Standard bearing manufacture number of the rear bevel drive bearing ( crown wheel) is, 61917 C3 -
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Old 07-19-2005, 05:38 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steptoe
Standard bearing manufacture number of the rear bevel drive bearing ( crown wheel) is, 61917 C3 -
Dealer price $132. Aftermarket bearing place $172.
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Old 07-20-2005, 05:46 AM   #30
BiG DoM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steptoe
Standard bearing manufacture number of the rear bevel drive bearing ( crown wheel) is, 61917 C3 -
Is this a BMW part number? FAG etc???
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