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Old 03-21-2013, 04:08 AM   #1
hapbob OP
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Location: Thumb of Michigan
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Winter Road King Things

Hey I admit I have cabin fever abd with the new to me ROad KIng. Sitting in Garage...

wERE LOOKING AT AT LEAST 10 days on long term weather forcast before could ride the bike. The high temp for next 10 days is 38???????

What can I upgrade or change that I will probably do in future...

So I can get it out of the way now in non riding season.

I have ordered a Mustang Seat and drivers backrest.

Other suggestions..

Hap
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Old 03-21-2013, 04:42 AM   #2
foxtrapper
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Make a 2x8 jack for the bike. It's great for doing oil changes.

Change and upgrade the rear shock oil

Change and upgrade the front fork oil

Change the gearbox and primary oil

Check the cam chain tensioners

Check the belt and chain tension

Do an air filter upgrade

Lube the cables

Rewire the front turnsignals as running lamps

Install a radioshack siren
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Old 03-21-2013, 07:50 AM   #3
boatpuller
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Add a battery tender pigtail to your battery, if not there already. Then buy a cig lighter to fit the pigtail from your local O'Reiley's Auto Parts. Those silly people think it's to plug into a flat four trailer wiring plug on your truck, but we know better. It's only a few dollars. Once plugged in, drop it in your saddle bag and you'll have a place to plug your cell phone charger into that is safe from the weather. Yes, the lid will close on the cord. (For tunes from my smart phone using ear buds, I remove the charger from the saddle bag, putting it in a little fanny pack worn on the front like a dweeb along with the smart phone. Only the ear buds and the cig lighter cord stick out of the bag. When dismounting I usually forget to unplug, but that just happens on its own with no harm.)

As you are in MI, go get some soft covers for the crash bars that will block wind/rain/slop from your feet. They work great.

Adjust your handlebars to work with new seat. If you need them higher or back more, you may be able to change the risers instead of the bars. Check into Harley's Street Slammer series for the proper riser cover, and use any Harley or aftermarket risers you want to. The stock riser is hidden by the stock cover, and is 1.5" high. I found a 4" pull back to fit me well.

Will you ride two up with a short passenger? I had to remove the rear crash bars to keep her calfs from riding on them. Used street glide style saddle bag brackets instead. Also, see if she'll want different foot boards.

Get yourself a set of ball end Allen style sockets (long ones) for working on your Road King, and a set of torx sockets. These will be used often when you modify your motorcycle. Also an INCH pound torque wrench.

Tire pressure monitoring system will make your life easier. Several kinds out there, research and choose what works best for you.

Heated grips? Heated jacket and gloves?

Better tail lights?

Wire your spot lights to stay on with the high beams.

Upgrade the horn. Stock one will die in a rain storm when you drive through deep water and splash water into it. Weeks later when you remove it and lay it flat, you'll see water run out. Or at least that's me. Twice.

Add quick detach hardware for luggage racks, back rests, trunks. Much easier to do than on the older frames.

The 2X8 stand idea is good. I just use 6X6 blocks and 2x4 cut offs. A 6X6 under the rt side frame will allow the RK to lean to the right similar to how the kick stand lets it lean to the left. Makes servicing the left side of the motorcycle as easy as servicing the right side on the kick stand. A 6X6 and a 2x4 under each side of the frame will make it very very solid and upright, allowing you to climb on the motorcycle or test fit handle bars with ease.

Rig up a drink holder of some type.

Sit on it and make vroom vroom noises.
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:05 AM   #4
Cakeeater
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Run, don't walk, and install some better bulbs in the front. Huge help at night.

If you don't have highway pegs, put 'em on.

Same with adjustable and removable HD driver's backrest.

Ditto on the horn.

That's it my book....

Cakeeater
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:55 AM   #5
grelcar
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Best upgrade I have done to my 2010 Road King was to install Progressive Monotubes in the front forks. I had never removed or disassembled a fork tube before. Took me about four hours and I was in no hurry. Besides basic hand tools and a service manual you will need a 1 3/8" wrench for the fork cap tubes, a long 6mm allen, a torque wrench and Harley glue (blue locktite).

Next best thing I have done was to upgrade the headlamp assembly and get higher wattage bulbs for the passing lamps. Do the wiring mod to keep the passing lamps on with the high beam. Stock headlamp sucks.

If tires or brakes will need to be replaced during the riding season, do it now.

Wax the paint, polish the chrome.

Above freezing is riding weather to me.

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Old 03-21-2013, 09:59 AM   #6
Rabon
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At 38 degrees, I would put the windshield on and ride it.
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:48 AM   #7
sixspeed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boatpuller View Post

Wire your spot lights to stay on with the high beams.

...
Quote:
Originally Posted by grelcar View Post
Do the wiring mod to keep the passing lamps on with the high beam...
After I bought my FLHP from NJ I brought it back to PA to be inspected.

The Harley dealership would not pass it since the Police bikes have the auxiliary lamps wired to come on with both high and low beams.

I didn't want to get into a peeing match with the dealership but IIRC every vehicle I've owned had the driving (auxiliary) lights go off when the high beams are hit.

The PA inspection regs do specifically mention specifically how and what lighting to check, which made no sense as compared to what the dealer required.

175.160:

(6) Check the lamps and lenses and reject if one or more of the following apply:

...
(ix) The fog lamps operate with the high beams of headlamps.
(x) Auxiliary driving lamps operate with the low beam of the standard headlamp system or alone.

A google search brought up a few different discussions, one of which mentioned that vehicles do not have any auxiliary lights wired to operate with high beams due to FMVSS maximum front-facing headlamp brightness standards.

Not meaning to start a war here, just giving testimony to my ordeal in the matter.
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Old 03-21-2013, 12:05 PM   #8
boatpuller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixspeed View Post
After I bought my FLHP from NJ I brought it back to PA to be inspected.

The Harley dealership would not pass it since the Police bikes have the auxiliary lamps wired to come on with both high and low beams.

I didn't want to get into a peeing match with the dealership but IIRC every vehicle I've owned had the driving (auxiliary) lights go off when the high beams are hit.

The PA inspection regs do specifically mention specifically how and what lighting to check, which made no sense as compared to what the dealer required.

175.160:

(6) Check the lamps and lenses and reject if one or more of the following apply:

...
(ix) The fog lamps operate with the high beams of headlamps.
(x) Auxiliary driving lamps operate with the low beam of the standard headlamp system or alone.

A google search brought up a few different discussions, one of which mentioned that vehicles do not have any auxiliary lights wired to operate with high beams due to FMVSS maximum front-facing headlamp brightness standards.

Not meaning to start a war here, just giving testimony to my ordeal in the matter.
The OP didn't ask for legal things to do, he asked for good things to do.
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Old 03-21-2013, 03:16 PM   #9
grelcar
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I used a 30 amp automotive style relay with a socket to do the passing lamp mod. I can pull the relay and put a jumper in for inspection. I can reach it without opening the nacelle or removing the headlamp. The entire modification costs around $10.
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Old 03-21-2013, 04:36 PM   #10
hapbob OP
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Hey

Hey you guys get it!
Those are the things I wanted to hear about
Started my list off your suggestions
I have a sears bike lift
the 6 x 2 board sounds dangerous with the weight of this bike!
I don't get it so i better just crawl under there.

But I am going to do several of these
Keep EM comming
Hap
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2007 CN250
sold2009 FLHR Road King
Hap
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Old 03-22-2013, 06:59 AM   #11
boatpuller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hapbob View Post
I have a sears bike lift
the 6 x 2 board sounds dangerous with the weight of this bike!
You are welcome to think what you want, but your Sears bike lift is no more stable than the 6x6 and 2x4 technique. Both depend upon the width of the motorcycle frame to provide the stabilizing footprint that prevents the Harley from falling over to the side. Now, if you actually lift the motorcycle off the ground with the Sears lift, than it is now LESS stable than the wood block technique which leaves the tires on the ground. The wood blocks are really an elegant, inexpensive, and stable solution for basic maintenance.
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:30 AM   #12
foxtrapper
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Yep. My RK is rock solid up on the 2x8's. Every bit as steady as any other bike on its center stand, and perhaps a bit more. Far more stable than it is sitting up on a jack. So stable that I never did bother to install the eyes for tie downs.

Great access to the drain plugs, and the pan can slip right under, which can't be done with a jack.

Gets the bike just high enough to remove the wheel at which ever end you lift.

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/bikelift.htm
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Old 03-22-2013, 05:01 PM   #13
hapbob OP
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Ok

Ok I see what your talking about?
I'll look into it
Do you build it like the link?
Or a better mouse trap?
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Old 03-22-2013, 05:39 PM   #14
Moe Wheels
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I added the Memphis shades bat wing fairing to mine. It uses a quick detach similar to the stock windshield. Also added the Garmin 660 GPS.

Moe
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:30 PM   #15
grelcar
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I added 120 miles to mine today
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