ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 03-25-2013, 05:52 PM   #1
JGatlin OP
Bonafide n00b
 
JGatlin's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Central West Virginia
Oddometer: 17
DR200SE Carb Breakdown and soak questions, picture heavy

Howdy folks,

I am trying to get a friend's 2003 (?) DR200 up and running. The bike was apparently purchased in the Flea Market from an owner in Miami a few years back. It has been sitting for 3 years with a full tank in a dry basement.

I have very little experience working on motorcycles, but I have worked on trucks in the past and am a master bicycle mechanic. Which probably don't count fer nothin, but c'est la vie. Over the past couple weeks I have perused the DR200 thread and others, secured the owner's/shop manual, and began to order some parts. Last week I pulled the carb to give it a look see and start tinkering. First, a picture of the drained gas:




Greeeeeen goodies. Egads. Ethanol? Anyhow. Onto the float bowl and whatnot:





Gunky. Varnish. No wonder it didn't start. So now I read about carb soaking and buy a thing o' Pine Sol, I consult the manual RE: how to disassemble this thing, and I set to work. Here's how far I got:



Or at least, that's all the small parts I could remove. Here's a close up of the valve seat and the needle jet. Needless to say, I can't seem to remove the needle jet:



And the little dome filter on the other side is all puckered:



Notes:
The manual indicated that I should have needed to drill through a plug to access the pilot screw. I found no such plug. Also, I can't figure out how to remove the starter plunger assembly. Like many shop manuals, the instructions do not actually instruct one how to remove a particular item, only that removal is necessary. The problem as I see it is that the choke knob is bigger than the nut below it. Therefore I cannot use a socket. and the nut has zero access to use a box end wrench:



Questions:
I want to get this bike running and I imagine I need to soak all these parts. Can I soak the body and the jets and all in Pine Sol? Do I need to figure out how to remove the pull choke? Based on the pictures above, do you think I'll need to get a rebuild kit and replace a few jets? From what I was told the carb only has about 300 miles on it since being replaced shortly after purchase. Of course, it sat unused for 3 years with gas in the bowl...

Unrelated note: I'm really, really, really excited to be working on and riding motorcycles. I got my license back in 2008 and have tooled around on borrowed rides since then, but haven't been able / willing to purchase one yet. I feel the time is nigh. I have lurked more than I care to admit in the flea market and craigslist; about every 6 months. This forum has been a goldmine of info and I can't wait to become a contributing member. Thanks in advance for your support!
JGatlin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2013, 10:07 AM   #2
bradluke0
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Tampa , Fl
Oddometer: 168
Hi all ! If you can get a gallon can of Gunk carb cleaner it will make your project alot easier . It even comes with a tray inside to put the parts in . Wish I could help you on the choke , I have never removed one . The Gunk stuff will clean everything but the pilot jet , you will have to use fine wire and the cleaner . It will take time but if you stay with it it is cleanable . Alot of guys will just order a new one . I would replace the float needle and seat . If you decide to soak the carb ...be careful , that stuff will eat the rubber parts , rinse very carefully . If you see a slotted small brass screw from the bottom / front of the carb , that is the pilot screw . It is a fuel screw as it is on the leaving side of the carb . Hope this helps....brad
bradluke0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2013, 11:07 AM   #3
JGatlin OP
Bonafide n00b
 
JGatlin's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Central West Virginia
Oddometer: 17
making progress...

Thanks for the input, Brad!

I ended up soaking all the small parts last night and today, here's what happened:


Much better! I can see through all the jets. The valve seat and that needle jet came apart easily and cleaned up decently, but I'm a little worried about the discoloration. Do you still think I ought to replace them?

JGatlin screwed with this post 03-26-2013 at 11:49 AM
JGatlin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2013, 01:07 PM   #4
Reposado1800
Juicy J fan!
 
Reposado1800's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: 5th and Main
Oddometer: 5,741
That green residue is decomposed ethanol. Thanks EPA!
I boil out the carb jets on the stove. WD40 cleans everything else without destroying rubber.
__________________
Hate gets you nowhere.
Tequila is a weapon of mass destruction.
Reposado1800 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2013, 03:32 PM   #5
dhally
Hammerhead
 
dhally's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Kennewick, WA
Oddometer: 2,006
A few answers from my memory bank. It might be best to just replace the pilot jet since it can be almost impossible to remove the gunk, and if you drill it out it can change the bore. I think a slightly larger one helps the throttle response on that bike, too.

The choke comes out by unsrewing that nut. Maybe use needle nose pliers or a bicycle wrench (skinny). Be careful, there is a spring in there. The worry with the choke (actually an enrichener circuit) is that it would stick open, not allowing the bike to run right.

The plug over the idle mixture adjustment screw could have been removed by the PO, it is a common thing to do.

If the float valve has a rubber tip may want to replace it. Also replace any gaskets and orings if they are starting to rot.

Consider replacing the screws on the carb with SST allen head - the stock ones strip out easily.
__________________
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
WR250R
Tiger 800
dhally is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2013, 03:56 PM   #6
JGatlin OP
Bonafide n00b
 
JGatlin's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Central West Virginia
Oddometer: 17
Kientech Mod

Well, the reason I didn't find a plug and whatnot is because....

There's a Kientech Jet Kit modification to this carburetor! Just got off the phone with a super nice gentleman (Jesse?) from there who helped explain the kit and shed some light on this whole carburetor thing.

I'm learning a shit ton! BTW: If you ever need a 5mm bolt to, say, tap out the needle jet below the main jet... the bolts that attach bicycle racks and bottle cages to a bicycle frame are just that.

One more question: any quick ideas for a gasket lubricant? I don't have any vaseline laying around here... Would vegetable shortening be acceptable?
JGatlin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2013, 11:03 AM   #7
bradluke0
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Tampa , Fl
Oddometer: 168
Hi all ! I would put a new needle and seat in , especially if you are using the stock petcock as they don't shut the gas off all of the time . Mine leaked all over my new work bench when I set the tank on there and went to eat dinner , came back to 1/2 gallon of gas all over . That tells me it is a good thing the carb float is working good , it is not a good thing to fill your motor with gas. Make dang sure all the gunk is out of the pilot jet , I slide small wire through it and slide the jet back and forth while drizzling carb cleaner on the wire . Good job , looks like you have a handle on it! I would just use a little motor oil on the gasket .
bradluke0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2013, 08:03 AM   #8
JGatlin OP
Bonafide n00b
 
JGatlin's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Central West Virginia
Oddometer: 17
One more question, regarding air filters -

I ordered a new stock Suzuki element and it came in yesterday. Appears to have some amount of oil or something similar already suspended in the filter. Should I clean it and then soak it? Should I just soak it as is? Or do they come properly soaked from the factory?

Thanks for all your advice! Bike is nearing completion...
JGatlin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2013, 12:25 PM   #9
FlyingFinn
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Oddometer: 1,054
If the air filter is already sticky with oil or other "sticky stuff" use it as is.
Cleaning and re-oiling a clean filter makes no sense.

I would definitely replace that whole needle valve assembly!
The valve body, needle valve itself and the o-ring that goes around the valve body. If don't replace these you're just asking for big trouble later.

Your jets still look really corroded too.
I would sure use some hard bristle brush or something similar and compressed air to make sure the tiny holes are 100% clean of any corrosion or fuel gunk.
Many people have ended up "cleaning" their carb over and over cause they never really did it properly. Just soaking in pinesoll or carb cleaner alone is not going to do it.
Did you also remove the main jet?

Another really important area to clean and inspect are the multiple little holes from the "pilot jet well" to the carb throat. There are multiple very small holes and they need to cleaned and blown clear.

If you use water to rinse off the pinesoll, you must either blow everything dry with compressed air or use wd40 or something similar to make sure no water is left behind. Water will immediately start new corrosion in the brass jets and in the zinc alloy carb body.

Also, I would for sure get a new o-ring for that fuel screw!
It's a very small o-ring, they often harden and stop sealing properly.
And when assembling it, pay attention to correct placement of parts on the fuel screw. Spring first, then the washer and last the o-ring.

Mikko
__________________
"It is not when or how you die but how and if you truly were ever alive!" Dr. Jerri Nielsen FitzGerald
FlyingFinn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2013, 08:07 PM   #10
JGatlin OP
Bonafide n00b
 
JGatlin's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Central West Virginia
Oddometer: 17
Mikko, thanks for your detailed reply. I would like to respond in depth but alas I am typing through the phone at the moment.

I have one quick question - I picked up a replacement spark plug at the local zuke store and it does not match the one currently in the bike - new one is an NGK DR8EA, existing is NGK DPR8EA-9. Thoughts?
JGatlin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2013, 10:33 AM   #11
FlyingFinn
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Oddometer: 1,054
The DPR8EA-9 will work but you should set the gap.

The -9 means that from the factory the plug gap is set to 0.9mm, DR200 spark plug gap spec is 0.6mm - 0.7mm. You should bend the tab slightly (not hitting it) and set it to the spec. Use feeler gauges or dedicated spark plug gauge to measure the gap.

The P in the DPR just means the insulator is little longer.

Most important specs are the D, 8 and E.

More spark plug info here:
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/docs/te...bols_plugs.pdf

Edit. Oh, I just noticed I got your plugs the wrong way around. I thought the DR8EA was on the bike and now you got DPR8EA-9. The DR8EA is the correct plug for the DR200, if you got that now just plug it in.

Mikko
__________________
"It is not when or how you die but how and if you truly were ever alive!" Dr. Jerri Nielsen FitzGerald
FlyingFinn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2013, 11:53 AM   #12
JGatlin OP
Bonafide n00b
 
JGatlin's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Central West Virginia
Oddometer: 17
Awesome. So awesome. It runs!

For the first few laps around the property I had to have the choke all the way out. It still occasionally revs up when I pull the clutch. but it runs it runs it run! No smoke!
JGatlin is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 05:33 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014