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Old 03-27-2013, 12:23 AM   #31
Plaka
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Originally Posted by robtg View Post
frickin' spell checker.
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Old 03-27-2013, 12:24 AM   #32
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Yeah, I couldn't read it all the way though either.
How do you manage a manual?

Wait, you make it up as you go along...
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Old 03-27-2013, 02:31 AM   #33
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I use basic observations to set float height. It may just be an Aussie thing, not sure.

Fuel on boot/s, float too high.

Sports bikes overtaking in mountains, float too low.

Idle? I did that once.
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Old 03-27-2013, 09:43 AM   #34
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How do you manage a manual?

Wait, you make it up as you go along...
I only use the pictures. If it's important they have a picture of it. Otherwise I don't know a thing about it.
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Old 03-27-2013, 09:55 AM   #35
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I only use the pictures. If it's important they have a picture of it. Otherwise I don't know a thing about it.
mmm...guess I been doing it backwards. I figure pictures are for comic books and those aren't serious stuff. So I just read the words and ignore the pictures.

Might explain a few things.
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Old 03-27-2013, 11:43 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by ME 109 View Post

Fuel on boot/s, float too high.

For someone has adjusted the float height, do you bend the metal tab here to adjust?



Photo borrowed from Bavarian Cafe.

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Old 03-27-2013, 12:03 PM   #37
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No, not there. See the little square tab that is between your two arrows? You will see that the needle sits on it.
You can use a flat blade screwdriver to bend it one way or the other.
A little movement of the tab (tongue or tang) has a big effect on fuel level.

Others may have less barbaric methods of adjustment.
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Old 03-27-2013, 12:45 PM   #38
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No, not there. See the little square tab that is between your two arrows? You will see that the needle sits on it.
You can use a flat blade screwdriver to bend it one way or the other.
A little movement of the tab (tongue or tang) has a big effect on fuel level.

Others may have less barbaric methods of adjustment.
It looks like the square tab is the toughest part of the metal tab.

I don't know how you can bend it with a screwdriver?

Where is the screwdriver leverage?

Do you have to remove the float and bend it on the bench?
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Old 03-27-2013, 01:03 PM   #39
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It's best to bend it so, the tab is straight onto the bottom of the float needle, this is a little difficult.

I find that these bikes are quite sensitive to getting the float height too low.
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Old 03-27-2013, 01:08 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by sigpe57 View Post
It looks like the square tab is the toughest part of the metal tab.

I don't know how you can bend it with a screwdriver?

Where is the screwdriver leverage?

You can sometimes bend it by twisting a flat bladed screwdriver between the tab and the float frame otherwise use a very small pair of needle nose pliers. As Chasbmw said, because of the lateral play in the needle tube the tab should be perpendicular to the float needle so it contacts squarely. It's hard to get that perfect without using pliers.


Yes I know the wire clip is incorrectly fitted but it's a nice picture of the tab.

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Old 03-27-2013, 01:16 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by sigpe57 View Post
For someone has adjusted the float height, do you bend the metal tab here to adjust?



Photo borrowed from Bavarian Cafe.
No. bend the tab that actually touches the float needle.



On this carb you can put a screwdriver between the tab and the bridge and twist to move the tab one way, or pinch the tab to the bridge with needlenose pliers to move it the other way.

Looks like on yours you can do it all with a needle nose.

You cannot make the tab square to the float needle. Think about it. The needle moves up and down but the tab moves in an arc. There is only one place where they are square, and that might not be where you want your float height!. it don't matter, the thing works at all the angles created by the arc of the tab as it pivots around the float pin. this is why the ass end of the float needle is itty bitty while the body of the needle is huge. It's the closest thing to a spherical surface that's cheap to make. (fer cryin' out loud)

(steal my pic and I will hunt you down...)

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Old 03-27-2013, 04:02 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by ME 109 View Post
No, not there. See the little square tab that is between your two arrows? You will see that the needle sits on it.
You can use a flat blade screwdriver to bend it one way or the other.
A little movement of the tab (tongue or tang) has a big effect on fuel level.

Others may have less barbaric methods of adjustment.
I think I got it. I should bend the tab under the square metal.
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Old 03-27-2013, 04:14 PM   #43
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I use a screwdriver to open the tab and a small needle nose pliers to close it like mentioned. You should be careful to not pry against the pin that holds the float in place. You can bend the pin or ding it up. Check the movement after you have made the adjustment. The floats do have to be able to move.

Plaka's picture also shows the splines on one end of the pin. Notice the pin is driven in far enough to engage splines but they are still visible. The pins should always be driven out from the non spline end so the splines come out first and don't enlarge the holes in the stanchions.

(Thanks for the picture)
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Old 03-27-2013, 04:15 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by sigpe57 View Post
I think I got it. I should bend the tab under the square metal.
Whatever is touching the float needle. And only a tiny amount. And don''t mess up the spring clip.

You don't pry with the screwdriver. Slip it in and gently twist it. pick a size that works for this.
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:19 PM   #45
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I am about the install the flow needle back to the carb. This is what the wire orientation looks like when I opened the carburetor. Is this the right orientation or it does not matter?

Does the color of the flow shows its remaining life or not?

If the fuel overflow to my boots when I open the petcock, should I open(further apart) or close the metal tab?




Is it about time to replace the needle or keep using it?

Is the black tip made of rubber?


sigpe57 screwed with this post 03-29-2013 at 07:28 PM
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