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Old 03-29-2013, 08:42 PM   #46
boxerboy81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ME 109 View Post
No, not there. See the little square tab that is between your two arrows? You will see that the needle sits on it.
You can use a flat blade screwdriver to bend it one way or the other.
A little movement of the tab (tongue or tang) has a big effect on fuel level.

Others may have less barbaric methods of adjustment.
So, to clarify, with the carb on the bike, pushing the tab marginally higher will lower the float height, causing the bowl to fill a little more?
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:15 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by sigpe57 View Post
I am about the install the flow needle back to the carb. This is what the wire orientation looks like when I opened the carburetor. Is this the right orientation or it does not matter?

Does the color of the flow shows its remaining life or not?

If the fuel overflow to my boots when I open the petcock, should I open(further apart) or close the metal tab?




Is it about time to replace the needle or keep using it?

Is the black tip made of rubber?

That's your trouble right there. It's shot.

The color of the float does not mean anything. Very yellow floats can still work for decades.
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Old 03-30-2013, 04:09 AM   #48
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That float needle looks kaput to me too.

My 81 R100RS float bowls are clean, no dirt, no extra weight.
When removed carefully after a ride, taps off, the left weighs 169gms, the right 170gms. New bowl gaskets a month or so ago. Diaphragms seated well and not torn.

The fluid level is 14mm from the top edge.

I do get a petrol smell on the right boot after a long ride. I can wipe a film of petrol from the front of the bowl. No drips or leaks otherwise.

160 main jets, new needles @ 2nd notch, new needle jets 2.68. Bike starts easily, doesn't need much choke. At higher rpm in 4th or 5th it seems to struggle along, nqr. It can rev to redline in lower gears. It struggled more in the mountains (over 1200metres) last weekend and was better, but not right, at lower altitude. Too rich? Change to 2.66 needle jets?

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Old 03-30-2013, 12:49 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by boxerboy81 View Post
So, to clarify, with the carb on the bike, pushing the tab marginally higher will lower the float height, causing the bowl to fill a little more?
I think it's the other way round, lower float height = less fuel in bowl= cutting out over 60 MPH.

I adjust with the carb on the bike, lowering the float bowl with the fuel on, I'm looking for the fuel to just start to flow as the float bowl moulding mark becomes parallel with the bottom of the carb. Easy to do with the carbs on the bike.
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Old 03-30-2013, 04:56 PM   #50
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I changed out the fuel needle and the float. Turn on the Fuel petcock, the fuel still pours out(not dripping). I took a mirror and looked under the carburetor. I found the fuel is not coming out from the overflow hole. It actually coming out from the braided fuel line connected to the carburetor. I changed out the fuel line. Fuel leak stopped. For all the trouble, I had learned many new things. Thanks. Guys. Next time, look at the fuel line area first before working on the fuel needle and float.



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Old 03-30-2013, 05:01 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boxerboy81 View Post
That float needle looks kaput to me too.

My 81 R100RS float bowls are clean, no dirt, no extra weight.
When removed carefully after a ride, taps off, the left weighs 169gms, the right 170gms. New bowl gaskets a month or so ago. Diaphragms seated well and not torn.

The fluid level is 14mm from the top edge.

I do get a petrol smell on the right boot after a long ride. I can wipe a film of petrol from the front of the bowl. No drips or leaks otherwise.

160 main jets, new needles @ 2nd notch, new needle jets 2.68. Bike starts easily, doesn't need much choke. At higher rpm in 4th or 5th it seems to struggle along, nqr. It can rev to redline in lower gears. It struggled more in the mountains (over 1200metres) last weekend and was better, but not right, at lower altitude. Too rich? Change to 2.66 needle jets?
Half of your story sounds lean and the other half rich. One thing is for sure, your needle jets have almost nothing to do with higher rpm's in top gears. That's your mains. Like I always try to remind people. Jetting takes buying jets. If your are not willing to do that, it's pretty hard to jet unless you are just lucky. Personally, I have Bing mains from 125's to 170's in steps of five and I have needle jets from 260's to 274's in steps of two. Splitting the jets smaller than that is pretty much a waist of time IMO. For instance, I just recently changed my setup and needed to rejet the mains on my Dells. I already had 160's down to 125's in steps of five and was running 130's. Some quick tests and I found out 155's where too lean so I got on the phone and ordered mains from 165's to 180's in steps of five. I started with 175's. Not too lean at all and then progressively picked up revs on my test runs down to 165's. Knowing that 155's are too lean I stopped there to break in my engine more. I am going to test 160's soon but I am always paranoid of getting tickets. Plus I am in the middle of a few other tests as well.
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Old 03-30-2013, 05:12 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sigpe57 View Post
I changed out the fuel needle and the float. Turn on the Fuel petcock, the fuel still pours out(not dripping). I took a mirror and looked under the carburetor. I found the fuel is not coming out connected to the carburetor. I changed out the fuel line. Fuel leak stopped. For all the trouble, I had learned many new things. Thanks. Guys. Next time, look at the fuel line area first before working on the fuel needle and float.



I have fixed many a 'float' like that. I thought for sure someone had already covered that base? I have numerous times before. Woven line? From Germany and the right size? Best fuel line out there IMO. No need to replace the line. Just snip the last quarter inch off and stick it back on. I always cut my line a little long for that option. Woven line gets thrown under the bus all the time on the net. For starters, woven line from Worth IS junk. The German VW stuff? I think it's great. I have used it for decades and I still use it although now I have to go to a VW place to get it.
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Old 03-30-2013, 06:29 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
Half of your story sounds lean and the other half rich. One thing is for sure, your needle jets have almost nothing to do with higher rpm's in top gears. That's your mains. Like I always try to remind people. Jetting takes buying jets. If your are not willing to do that, it's pretty hard to jet unless you are just lucky. Personally, I have Bing mains from 125's to 170's in steps of five and I have needle jets from 260's to 274's in steps of two. Splitting the jets smaller than that is pretty much a waist of time IMO. For instance, I just recently changed my setup and needed to rejet the mains on my Dells. I already had 160's down to 125's in steps of five and was running 130's. Some quick tests and I found out 155's where too lean so I got on the phone and ordered mains from 165's to 180's in steps of five. I started with 175's. Not too lean at all and then progressively picked up revs on my test runs down to 165's. Knowing that 155's are too lean I stopped there to break in my engine more. I am going to test 160's soon but I am always paranoid of getting tickets. Plus I am in the middle of a few other tests as well.

I realise the MJ work at the higher rpm, that's why I've been investigating the float height and bowl fluid level. Level seems a tad low, but even. The floats appear parallel too though, and fluid flow shuts off, comes on appropriately.

40mm BINGs, fluid level appears to be 26mm from the bottom, 14mm from the top. From reading and cross referencing, it seems consensus is it should be 28mm and 12mm. I'm going to flush the tank and fill it up and remeasure.

I have MJ's 160, 165, 170.
I have NJ's 2.66, 2.68, 2.70.
Clean BMW air filter, Staintune touring mufflers.

Stock setup, as it was, as per BING manual is 160 & 2.66, needle @ 2nd notch.

I'll check the hoses too.

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Old 03-30-2013, 06:39 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boxerboy81 View Post

I realise the MJ work at the higher rpm, that's why I've been investigating the float height and bowl fluid level. Level seems a tad low, but even. The floats appear parallel too though, and fluid flow shuts off, comes on appropriately.

40mm BINGs, fluid level appears to be 26mm from the bottom, 14mm from the top. From reading and cross referencing, it seems consensus is it should be 28mm and 12mm. I'm going to flush the tank and fill it up and remeasure.

I have MJ's 160, 165, 170.
I have NJ's 2.66, 2.68, 2.70.
Clean BMW air filter, Staintune touring mufflers.

Stock setup, as it was, as per BING manual is 160 & 2.66, needle @ 2nd notch.

I'll check the hoses too.
Put the 170's in it and see if it makes it better or worse. If you can't tell, try some 150's. If you can't tell much difference with 150's, try 140's. Your description is definitely about main jets.
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Old 03-30-2013, 06:43 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by boxerboy81 View Post

I realise the MJ work at the higher rpm, that's why I've been investigating the float height and bowl fluid level. Level seems a tad low, but even. The floats appear parallel too though, and fluid flow shuts off, comes on appropriately.

40mm BINGs, fluid level appears to be 26mm from the bottom, 14mm from the top. From reading and cross referencing, it seems consensus is it should be 28mm and 12mm. I'm going to flush the tank and fill it up and remeasure.

I have MJ's 160, 165, 170.
I have NJ's 2.66, 2.68, 2.70.
Clean BMW air filter, Staintune touring mufflers.

Stock setup, as it was, as per BING manual is 160 & 2.66, needle @ 2nd notch.
Get some 168 MJ too.

Do plug chops to evaluate the mixture somewhat. Use a meter on it if you want to nail it.

At high altitude you end up running too rich. Change the jets if you are staying up there. The table in the Bing manual gives the altitude corrections. I live at altitude so I rejet for longer tours at low altitude. Easy side of the road deal.
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Old 03-31-2013, 07:23 AM   #56
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Thanks fellas. I won't be "up" there for a while. Really, altitude of 1200metres isn't very high. It's not been an issue before.

The easiest thing to do is change the MJ's for 165 or 170, then take it for a high speed spin. 130kph is mandatory loss of license here, so I'll need to pick my time and place!

I'm also starting to wonder if it's the aux starting mechanism. It started easily after work tonight without choke. It was 10-12C outside. It could be described as running like the choke was on a bit? It does do a bit of stuttering at 60-70kph, more like it was rich verses surging.

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Old 03-31-2013, 08:12 AM   #57
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Thanks fellas. I won't be "up" there for a while. Really, altitude of 1200metres isn't very high. It's not been an issue before.

The easiest thing to do is change the MJ's for 165 or 170, then take it for a high speed spin. 130kph is mandatory lose of license here, so I'll need to pick my time and place!

I'm also starting to wonder if it's the aux starting mechanism. It started easily after work tonight without choke. It was 10-12C outside. It could be described as running like the choke was on a bit? It does do a bit of stuttering at 60-70kph, more like it was rich verses surging.
Try some thick grease around the seam between the choke cover and the carb body and see what happens. There is one point where the cover gasket commonly gets sucked in then the thing leaks.

130 in a residential neighborhood???

that's ordinary cruising speed here. On a posted 120kph highway it won't even net you a warning.
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:55 AM   #58
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Amazing that 130kph is loss of license. It's just keeping you off front bumpers here.
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:27 PM   #59
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Amazing that 130kph is loss of license. It's just keeping you off front bumpers here.
Well, specifically 30 kph over the posted speed limit. 110kph is the fastest but only on selected interstate freeways. It's a state run by revenue from speeding cameras! Victoria, Oz where 3 kph over the limit will cost you $250 give or take a bit.

I live 5 minutes from semi rural roads where the LEO's are sparse, so if I'm careful and do a couple of drive bys first as part of a warm up ride I should be safe enough. Next days off...Friday or so.

Then, last week when up in the mountains they're showing us how it should be done! Advertising in the pissoir in a servo in the mountains!

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Old 03-31-2013, 08:38 PM   #60
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Ouch... well at least you get good fuel economy going that slow
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