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Old 03-29-2013, 08:04 AM   #1
egwags OP
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2010 GSA Spark Plug (I think)

I have searched everywhere, and I can't seem to find a good description of how to replace the spark plugs on a 2010 GSA with the metal covers. Anyone have a good youtube video or even photos with description? I'm mechanically inclined, but I have very little experience working on this machine.

And this is assuming that the plugs are the problem. My bike sat a long time in this cold winter with the charger on, so the battery is charged, and the starter is activating, and even the exhaust is making some sound - it just won't catch as it tried to turnover. Spark plugs right?

Open to any help at all!!!

Thanks
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Old 03-29-2013, 08:15 AM   #2
egwags OP
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And a follow up!

Ok, also, could you recommend which spark plugs to go with for the first and secondary?
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:53 AM   #3
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I currently have the same problem, but haven't had the time to troubleshoot. '11 GSA, fresh gas in January filled half way, sat for two months on a battery tender and didn't start two weeks ago before I left for vacation. I figured I'd deal with it once I got back.

The bike cranks without any problem. I even thought it was going to start at one point as the left cylinder started to fire, but then it gave up; it even gave a few puffs of black smoke out the tail pipe. Cranking it more did nothing, and I tried over a 3 day period only to get the same results each day.

I removed the injectors to verify they were spraying gas, and they appeared to be functioning properly (although that's a subjective test). A fine mist plumes from each injector, but I don't know if it's the proper volume...

I then sprayed some starting fluid into the injector ports with the injectors removed, then installed the injectors and tried to crank it. Still didn't start.

Since those tests failed, I'm too considering it to be a spark issue and have to check that out.

From your post, it's not clear to me where you're having trouble removing your plugs. I assume you've removed the valve cover protectors from the heads, and you're now looking at your valve covers. Be careful threading screws back in when you put it together; that aluminum is very soft compared to the bolts!

If that's the case, you'll next remove the black plastic cover that's in the center of the valve cover for the primary plug and then remove the secondary plug's cover (that's on the bottom of the head). The secondary cover has a few screws holding it on.

Once you have the plastic removed, you can pull the ignition coil off the primary plug. I have the cheap BMW tool that is a PITA to use, but is functional if you work with it to squeeze the coil by manipulating the BMW tool, and simultaneously use a screw driver to leverage the coil off the plug. You may be able to do this without a tool, but I haven't devised a way to do it myself; I'm sure someone else has though.

The secondary plug, if I remember correctly, is much easier to remove since its coil is not held in the same way.

From there you should be able to remove your plugs and then check for spark.

I'll be doing that next week when I get back home.

Best of luck! Let us know your findings.

-acs
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:03 AM   #4
egwags OP
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Thanks

Sounds like we're having the same issue. I'm going to remove the spark plugs and replace them this afternoon. If that doesn't work, I'm going to have the shop pick it up.

As for the spark plugs, do you recommend the NGK MAR 8B-JDS, which I think are the equivalent to the BMW part# 12 12 7 726 112? If I can't find those, would the NGK DCPR 8 EKC or the Bosch YR 5 LDE (BMW 12 12 7 677 560) work?

Thanks again, and good luck to you!
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:19 AM   #5
jdub
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It appears the good folks at Beemer Boneyard can fix you up for the MAR 8B-JDS plugs.
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:46 AM   #6
rdwalker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egwags View Post
... Spark plugs right?...
No. No way.

It's not possible for all of the 4 sparkplugs to suddenly go out just by sitting. No such thing. Plugs do not self-explode en-masse by being idle.

Read up the threads here on diagnosing no-start. I'd suspect a fuel delivery issue. Can you hear your pump running up in the tank? (There were some reports here of E10 fuel gumming up the pump).)

Much has been written here on troubleshooting, so I don't want to repeat the info. Just search the forum for topics on starting problems.

But there is nothing wrong with your spark plugs. Just think the problem through and follow proper diagnostic procedure before you start swapping random parts.
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:50 AM   #7
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No. No way.

It's not possible for all of the sparkplugs to suddenly go out just by sitting. No such thing. Plugs do not self-explode by being idle.

Read up the threads here on troubleshooting of no-start. I'd suspect a fuel delivery issue (can you hear your pump running up in the tank?)

Much has been written here on troubleshooting, so I don't want to repeat the info. Just search the forum for topics on starting problems.

But there is nothing wrong with your spark plugs. Just think the problem though and follow proper diagnostic procedure before you start swapping random parts.
I agree. The plugs are HIGHLY unlikely to be bad themselves.

For myself, I checked with the GS911, and found the pump is operating, and I could hear it actuating on both start up and with the GS911. That, however, does not eliminate the possibility of a fuel issue. Sitting for a few months could potentially clog things up.

-acs
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:51 AM   #8
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If after all that cranking you still aren't firing up, I'd check a few things before the plugs.

1. Fuel - at least one of you did that part :) but with all that cranking it should have a strong odor of fuel in the exhaust.
2. Air - is anything blocking your air filter/intake? I've never seen it personally but some people have rat/mice problems. Blocked air will stop it from starting.
3. Spark - ok, this one is a tough one... but highly unlikely with 4 coils that they all failed. Plugs die when being used, rarely from sitting.

I'd look at your fuel and air before addressing the spark.
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Old 03-29-2013, 12:44 PM   #9
lkchris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egwags View Post
As for the spark plugs, do you recommend the NGK MAR 8B-JDS, which I think are the equivalent to the BMW part# 12 12 7 726 112? If I can't find those, would the NGK DCPR 8 EKC or the Bosch YR 5 LDE (BMW 12 12 7 677 560) work?
You're asking if the plugs specified for the 2005-2009 models will work in the 2010-on models.

Well, no, as they aren't even the same physical size. It's a new engine, you know. New cylinder head, more specifically.
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Old 03-30-2013, 12:58 AM   #10
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Mice love to nest in the air snorkel. Make sure your air intake is clear!!
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Old 03-30-2013, 05:56 AM   #11
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I concur with bildonna, mice love to sneak in the garage over the winter. I usually put steel wool at the entrance of the air intake snorkel when not riding the bike for a while. Just have to remember to take it out again!
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Old 03-31-2013, 02:23 AM   #12
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I concur with bildonna, mice love to sneak in the garage over the winter. I usually put steel wool at the entrance of the air intake snorkel when not riding the bike for a while. Just have to remember to take it out again!
Try using a 1/4" steel mesh screen over the snorkel. It keeps mice and crap out + it can be left in place year round.
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:53 AM   #13
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Kill switch or sidestand switch?
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:04 AM   #14
trc.rhubarb
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Quote:
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Kill switch or sidestand switch?
Both of those as well as the clutch/neutral safety switch prevent engagement of the starter.
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:31 AM   #15
a.c.s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRP View Post
Kill switch or sidestand switch?
Quote:
Originally Posted by trc.rhubarb View Post
Both of those as well as the clutch/neutral safety switch prevent engagement of the starter.
Both of these bikes crank.

Still, you are correct; if the side stand switch or neutral switch is engaged, the motorcycle will not crank.
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a.c.s. screwed with this post 03-31-2013 at 08:37 AM
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