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Old 04-01-2013, 09:40 AM   #16
Disco Dean
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I have mastered it now (2006 GS) after all these years but it did take a few times and some cursing the first few times.

I can offer nothing that already hasn't been suggested.... but will add,

If you have been a little overaggressive with your trying - ie. mallet or ratchet tie-downs you may have made a few of the spline gears "proud".

This would for sure - for sure - make it near to next impossible to now get on.

The fit is quite tight and with the angles involved... impossible.

My advise - if this is what has happened - is to get a nice little triangular fine finishing file. Gently take it to the splines (both sides) and remove the leading edge burr if you have tweaked it.

..patience - it will go on easily but it has to be perfect and once done a few times it becomes a breeze. I still take a bit of a breath each time to make sure I get it right.

Good luck.
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Old 04-01-2013, 10:01 AM   #17
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Hang in there. I did my 2005 once, and struggled for an hour trying to get it back. Pulled the boot back two or three times. Finally walked away from it for a while. Had lunch, relaxed to get the blood pressure down. Went back at it and it slid right in.
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Old 04-01-2013, 11:15 AM   #18
Swinefahrt
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Get a helper to hold the final drive while you dick with the drive shaft.

I had the problem once and ended up dislodging the drive shaft at the transmission end. I did not completely remove the driveshaft. The extra 1/2 inch extension made the reconnection easy on the final drive. Raising the final drive forced the driveshaft's transmission end forward, engaging the transmission output shaft.

Afterward I was concerned if the driveshaft circlip was sufficiently engaged onto the transmission output shaft. A year later I pulled the driveshaft for universal joint inspection and found the driveshaft fully engaged onto the transmission output shaft.
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Old 04-01-2013, 02:34 PM   #19
Monsignore OP
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Thanks for the advice and words of encouragement.

I've been trying for the last hour+.

I can get splines to touch enough that rotating the FD turns the driveshaft, but this rotation causes the FD unit to slowly bob up and down. This makes me think the splines aren't quite lining up 100% because the U-joint's rotation is a bit eccentric.
I've been trying to avoid force this time. I didn't notice any burrs, but maybe they're too small to feel through my gloved finger.

Oh, and it's raining now.

Halfway through a Lagunitas IPA, then I'll truck over to Home Depot to see if they have the file Disco Dean suggested. I'll give his tip a try.

I have a head lamp so my cut-off time is 8:30ish when the wife gets home and I have to start packing for our vacation tomorrow.
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Old 04-01-2013, 02:56 PM   #20
JimVonBaden
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It is very rare to damage them. Get an assistant to hold the dirveshaft and joint level with the FD as you lift it. Put the bike in gear and lift the FD while turning the brake rotor. You will eventually see how it fits in. Done like this I can have any FD on in seconds.

BTW I once get frustrated with a FD and had to step away, but it does get easier once you feel it a few times.

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Old 04-01-2013, 05:03 PM   #21
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Hallelujah!

I used the triangular file on all the driveshaft splines and the flat file on the outside of the driveshaft end. When the parts slid home, oh MAN! It was like sex the first time. It felt so good I had to try it again, but (like sex) this time with a rubber on. That was a little finickier, but it went in. I even remembered to have the paralever arm bolt handy.

I had maybe an hour of daylight left so I decided to quickly swap brake discs & pads and slap the wheel back on. Well, just to remind me that today is April Fool's Day, I rounded out the head of one of the bolts holding the disc to the flange.

So, I put back the two bolts I'd removed, ran back upstairs to my apartment to grab the rear wheel and hand tightened it back on so I could get the bike off the center stand while I'm outta town.

That leaves one question: how do you remove a rounded out torx bolt?
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Old 04-01-2013, 05:20 PM   #22
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Rounded-out torx bolt. Dang it.

It was bolt #3. If it was bolt #5 I think I'd be curled in the fetal position under the bike, sobbing.
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Old 04-01-2013, 05:31 PM   #23
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i did that to the final drive fill bolt....

and ended up soldering the torx driver to the torx bolt. worked like a charm.

good luck.

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Old 04-01-2013, 05:33 PM   #24
Paul_R_Canada
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Stripped

Well congrats on getting the FD done ! It looks to me from your pic that you just rounded the top bit and my suggestion is the clean out the top a bit, get the torx lined up straight and tap it to the bottom of the hole and try again.

To clean it use a small flat and gently dig out the flatten material on the right side if the picture

Also tapping in the torx will gently "shock" the bolt and perhaps make it easier to remove - my 2 cents

Good luck..
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Old 04-01-2013, 05:55 PM   #25
navsnipe
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For your stubborn rotor bolts get a hand impact driver. I've had mine for about 30+ years and I still go to it for the tough ones. You supply the impact with a hammer to the end of the tool and along with the rotational force it will get most bolts loose. Put some penetrating fluid on them first.

Most have a 3/8" drive so you can use sockets you already have.
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Old 04-01-2013, 06:12 PM   #26
Disco Dean
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Great news. I know how frustrating it can be.

While I haven't rounded a rear disk bolt yet... They are a $&@$. As you need a long torx extension to get in there square with the tool in the FD notch for them. I bought a long torx bit and am careful. Only putting a little locktite on them.

The recommendation of cleaning it out and tapping the bit in is a good one. I think I will get a set of stainless allen bolts from Probolt or shallow head bolts that I can wire. I hate loctite. For my new disk the stainless or even titanium bolts are cheaper than the oem ones up here in Canada.

Anyway sounds like you are on track and shod get it. Good luck.
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Old 04-01-2013, 07:47 PM   #27
trc.rhubarb
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Hey, before you leave...
PUT TAPE OVER YOUR IGNITION with a note reminding you that your wheel is only hand tightened.
Takes about 1 minute longer to torque them... This is an accident waiting to happen.

Congrats on getting the FD together. Next time will be a breeze.
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:19 PM   #28
cjack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trc.rhubarb View Post
Hey, before you leave...
PUT TAPE OVER YOUR IGNITION with a note reminding you that your wheel is only hand tightened.
Takes about 1 minute longer to torque them... This is an accident waiting to happen.

Congrats on getting the FD together. Next time will be a breeze.
I thought about that too...torque those wheel bolts.

As to the torx bolt, also make sure your torx bit is flat across the end...no raised center which prevents the tool from engaging the maximum amount of the torx splines in the bolt head. I took a set of mine to the belt sander to flatten the tip to where the torx splines started on the tool.
And use some heat on the bolt before you try to remove it.
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:38 PM   #29
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If the Torx is knackered just knock an Allen in that barely fits, then knock and turn in spurts until it comes loose.

Yes, and torque those wheel bolts now!
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:42 PM   #30
marchyman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjack View Post
And use some heat on the bolt before you try to remove it.
Heat is your friend. There is thread locker on the screws. BMW even calls for replacing the screws when replacing the disk. The stock screws are "micro-encapsulated" meaning they come with thread locker pre applied.
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