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Old 04-16-2013, 08:28 AM   #1
KimCohan OP
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R1150GS handlebar removal for painting

DSC00603 by KimCohan, on FlickrHi folks-

I'm in the middle of restoring my R1150GS.

I'm taking the stock handlebars off my R1150gs for powder coating. Looks like the disassembly sequence is important here- I need some advice.

I've got the heated grip wires loose from the connector. I have removed the brake stuff and the switches.

1- There's a rubber bushing underneath the outer third of the handlebar. Is there a way to remove this? Do I just slide the outer bar off? This bushing wont take the heat of the curing oven.

2- The grip heat wires go thru the outerbars. The hole in the outerbar looks pretty tiny, will the heated grip wire slip out thru this hole? I'm worried the connector will get hung up inside the bar and I'll be up the creek. Or do I remove the outerbar with the wires still inside, then easily fish the wire out after the outbar is off the bike.

3- Is the outbar designed to be removed?

Thanks for the help.

See my other thread for pics of the entire project.

KimCohan screwed with this post 04-16-2013 at 08:38 AM
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:20 AM   #2
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I removed my bars for re-painting a couple of years ago. I don't remember all the details, but I do remember that the heated grips wiring was a no-brainer. I did not have to cut or splice anything. I removed the old grips and threw them in the trash. Bought a new set of grips (OEM) and the connectors went right into the outer bars and came out the holes in the middle. I used spray paint and did not dis-assemble the bars so I can't respond to your question about the grommet.

BTW, since the bars don't get abused much by the elements, powder coating isn't your only option. You could simply sand them down and spray them. Or, for a tougher finish, use brake caliper paint (available in rattle cans) and use a heat gun to cure it. The rubber grommet would be likely unharmed.
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Old 04-16-2013, 01:19 PM   #3
KimCohan OP
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I may spray them to avoid total dis-assembly.

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Old 04-16-2013, 02:18 PM   #4
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Spray a bunch of wd40 around the rubber ends and inboard where the little nut and bolt are (just inboard of where the brake and clutch master cylinders were). You can use a large screwdriver to slowly ease the whole outer section off. That rubber bushing is an anti-vibration mount for the outer part of the bar, it's not vulcanized in, with a bit of encouragement the bar will break down in to three steel parts plus the two rubber sleeves.
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Old 04-16-2013, 03:31 PM   #5
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If you decide to remove the bar ends, and you use oil to help with the process, be sure the coating company uses a heated phosphate power bath prior to powder coating to remove all the oil. Also mask the OD of the bar, and the ID of the bar ends or the bar ends will never go back on.


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Old 04-16-2013, 07:38 PM   #6
KimCohan OP
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Good advice on the cleaning and the masking. Starting to think that powder coating has a lot of possible issues. I was planning to powder coast the rear frame, but worried about build up.
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:08 PM   #7
Mr Head
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Those bars may not fit back in the clamps after coating. And if forced that paint will crack.

My advice is good cleaning and sand blast to clear the old rust and paint off and rattle can them hotrod black.
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:30 PM   #8
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Powder coating could be a problem. It could increase the diameter of bars enough to cause problems. Don't ask how I know.
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