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Old 04-06-2013, 07:12 PM   #16
brittrunyon OP
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You means this?



Here's the OT mark at 1000 rpms

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Old 04-06-2013, 07:17 PM   #17
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Kaput13,
Thanks for the heads up on your similar issue.
I'm wondering at this point what should/could be done to the bean can to solve the problem.
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Old 04-06-2013, 07:17 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brittrunyon View Post
You means this?



Here's the OT mark at 1000 rpms

Exactly.
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Old 04-06-2013, 07:22 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brittrunyon View Post
Kaput13,
Thanks for the heads up on your similar issue.
I'm wondering at this point what should/could be done to the bean can to solve the problem.

This I do not know other than to say that I've seen a post somewhere of someone rebuilding a beancan (with pictures) should you be so inclined. Maybe someone in the know will provide a link. If it turns out that the beancan is at fault there are people out there rebuilding beancans and if you want to spend more money go for one of the aftermarket options. BMW item is even more. Buying a used one is a crapshoot.

kaput13 screwed with this post 04-06-2013 at 07:34 PM
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Old 04-06-2013, 07:47 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
I was interested in how it hooks up, is powered and grounds.

You have to sight dead down the notch in the window to get an accurate reading. Helps to clean it up with the corner of a file.
+ & - to battery
clip to right plug wire

I know about "sight dead down" the window, it's just taking a photo was a little difficult so the angles a little "catee wompus".
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Old 04-06-2013, 08:19 PM   #21
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Couldn't agree more:
.........misalignment of the Hale cup seems possible but not sure what to do about it.
.........it was all reassembled as I found it, but cleaner & didn't see that it could go together any other way.

Thanks for the tip:
..........light on the alternator & flyweights
..........I'll listen with scope tomorrow
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Old 04-06-2013, 08:43 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brittrunyon View Post
Couldn't agree more:
.........misalignment of the Hale cup seems possible but not sure what to do about it.
.........it was all reassembled as I found it, but cleaner & didn't see that it could go together any other way.

Thanks for the tip:
..........light on the alternator & flyweights
..........I'll listen with scope tomorrow
I didn't pull the hall cup, just worked on the weights and their pivot plate, so I can't tell you either.

Pry out the service window. Y'll be surprised how much you can see--like both ends of the springs. You can also move the weights with a probe and test the action. They should snap back crisply.
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:48 AM   #23
Bill Harris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brittrunyon View Post
Well Okie Dokie here's where I sit:

At 3000 rpm's the Z mark is just below the window, it wasn't that it isn't visible, I just needed to look down, almost out of sight.
........almost steady but not quite

So there it is:
........The OT & S marks are below the window at 1000rpms
........The Z mark is below the window at 3000rpms
........& I can't advance the the can.

I serviced the bean can last week, it was not that dirty, & lubed with silicone grease/oil.
The dynamic ignition timing, then, is somewhat retarded if the "Z" mark is low in the window. Probably by as much as 2-4 degrees. Not ideal, but it shouldn't cause serious running problems. The stumble is probably related to another problem.

Do you recall the timing setting and beancan position before the R&R?

--Bill
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:16 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Harris View Post

Do you recall the timing setting and beancan position before the R&R?

--Bill
Yes replaced the bean can exactly as I found it after the R&R.
..............I changed nothing but made it cleaner
..............It was already advanced as far as possible.

I'm thinking the Z mark is probably 4-6 degrees retarded (not to split hairs)

& yes I think the stumble is carb related.

Thanks for the input
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:53 AM   #25
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Hate clonk in the forks is likely to be the damper valve, BMW issued a couple of fixes for it, the later fix works well, but requires some parts, one of which is NLA.

You should have a F or Z mark which shows full advance at around 3000-3500 rpm. Of the 2 marks I would set the timing at F and if the bike starts ok, leave it at that.

The bike looks nice
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Old 04-07-2013, 12:04 PM   #26
Bill Harris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brittrunyon View Post
Yes replaced the bean can exactly as I found it after the R&R.
..............I changed nothing but made it cleaner
..............It was already advanced as far as possible.

I'm thinking the Z mark is probably 4-6 degrees retarded (not to split hairs)

& yes I think the stumble is carb related.

Thanks for the input
Very likely then it may be a stretched timing chain. Not a big job to replace (though the crankshaft sprocket, if worn too, is a little more work). The chains are not prone to breaking or jumping time, so this is not a super-priority, but an item for the To-Do List...

--Bill
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Old 04-07-2013, 02:05 PM   #27
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Brit needs to borrow a bean can. If that fixes it, that's it. I am leaning toward the timing chain now that we know the advance stops are close. The timing being that far off really effects performance but that is but one aspect of a badly worn timing chain.

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Old 04-07-2013, 02:41 PM   #28
brittrunyon OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
Brit needs to borrow a bean can. If that fixes it, that's it. I am leaning toward the timing chain now that we know the advance stops are close. The timing being that far off really effects performance but that is but one aspect of a badly worn timing chain.
First:
I've thought about that. My other bike is a '92 GS, so my question is, would that bean can work as the borrowed one?

Second: (Plaka's suggestion)
I put the stethescope to the timing cover and all was quiet in there.
............no change in the sound as I went from 1k to 4k rpm's

I put the timing light on the alternator and all was steady throughout the rpm range

I put the timing light through the bean can window & all was steady except at 4k rpm's and then it started jumping around in there sporadically. I would think it would remain steady throughout the rpm range.............?

Correction:

Inside the alternator appears to be jumping around sporadically at 4k rpm's
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Old 04-07-2013, 03:03 PM   #29
brittrunyon OP
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According to Clymer:

It's the same bean can in my '92 GS.........
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Old 04-07-2013, 03:35 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brittrunyon View Post
According to Clymer:

It's the same bean can in my '92 GS.........
yes, you can swap the cans. mark the gs block and can of course.

Try hooking the timing light to an external battery for it's power. I asked about the light hookups becauuse if vibration makes the light power hookups get flaky, so will the light.

With the can off the problem bike, poke around at the beancan drive and look for looseness or backlash. When you twist it with the bike in gear, how sloppy?
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