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Old 04-08-2013, 07:16 PM   #46
brittrunyon OP
R 100 GS F 650 GS
 
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Location: The High Desert of New Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
BTW, Open it up and look around before you order stuff. It will be out of service the same amount of time any way you play it.
Ohhh Reeally.....

So your saying:
...........no matter how many parts I order before hand
...........no matter how many times I go over the procedure in my head
...........no matter how many of my ducks I get in a row
...........no matter how many cold ones are in the frig
...........no matter how many times I read this thread
That all is for naught...............?
That there will be that minuscule item or that big blunder, that will bring progress to a screeching halt.

Wow! The pressure really is on.

My better half is already worried about the down time. After all this is her bike & all she wants to do is ride.
If the bike's not running & I'm not working on it, I'm

But I get your point.

One of the first things I did when I got the bike 20 days ago was check the exhaust nuts. They came off easy & I applied copper anti-seize.
Everything thing up front will be coming off, wheel, fender, etc.
You only have to forget to tie the center stand off once (hopefully).
I'm of the school of thought that, if I'm going in that far, I will be replacing whatever I think I should. After all, it's been 32 years, 143,000 miles & everything on this bike looks original.
I don't want to go back in behind the timing cover for another 32 years.
Headed into town tomorrow to see if there's an appropriate puller anywhere within a 100 mile radius.

Cheers
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:56 PM   #47
Bill Harris
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I also like ot order my "known" parts beforehand and get all my ducks in a row. But oftentimes, one will get blindsided and the repair can snowball and take longer. Such is wrenching.

--Bill
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:59 PM   #48
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brittrunyon View Post
Ohhh Reeally.....

So your saying:
...........no matter how many parts I order before hand
...........no matter how many times I go over the procedure in my head
...........no matter how many of my ducks I get in a row
...........no matter how many cold ones are in the frig
...........no matter how many times I read this thread
That all is for naught...............?
That there will be that minuscule item or that big blunder, that will bring progress to a screeching halt.

Wow! The pressure really is on.

My better half is already worried about the down time. After all this is her bike & all she wants to do is ride.
If the bike's not running & I'm not working on it, I'm

But I get your point.

One of the first things I did when I got the bike 20 days ago was check the exhaust nuts. They came off easy & I applied copper anti-seize.
Everything thing up front will be coming off, wheel, fender, etc.
You only have to forget to tie the center stand off once (hopefully).
I'm of the school of thought that, if I'm going in that far, I will be replacing whatever I think I should. After all, it's been 32 years, 143,000 miles & everything on this bike looks original.
I don't want to go back in behind the timing cover for another 32 years.
Headed into town tomorrow to see if there's an appropriate puller anywhere within a 100 mile radius.

Cheers
Never underestimate either the chaos or the perversity of the universe.

Ever snapped off a factory rotor puller bolt in the rotor? (took a while to get it off with a jaw puller.) Did you order alternator brushes? How about finding bits of broken oil pressure relief spring inside the front cover?

She won't complain about not having a bike to ride if she's 'too sore' if you get my drift.
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Old 04-08-2013, 10:51 PM   #49
disston
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I'm with Plaka on this one. It's impossible to prepare for any and all eventualities. However I don't have a problem with trying if you are so inclined.

This is the tool made by Cycle Works that does such a nice job on the simplex chains. It's not cheap. $210



This is the OEM puller for the front crank sproket;



It is not cheap, if you can find one.

This is a puller that works. I've never used this tool but am told by a source I trust this tool works. Sold at NAPA stores and other places;



Hope that helps in your search.
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Old 04-08-2013, 11:32 PM   #50
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A regular three jaw puller from Sears works fine. You do need a good center no matter what type puller you use. They can sometimes be the trickiest part to find.
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Old 04-09-2013, 04:27 AM   #51
disston
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The buttons or centers are often no where to be found. A properly sized socket from a socket set will substitute. Put forcing screw inside the socket where bolt or nut head normally go. Ratchet end of socket will go on penny set on crankshaft tip.
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Old 04-09-2013, 05:20 AM   #52
brittrunyon OP
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I'll be searching for a 3 jaw puller today that I can beg, borrow or steal.........

There's a NAPA within 30 miles, for a possible rental puller.
There's a couple of Airhead Gurus hear in Northern New Mexico as well but I have no contact info.

I like the penny on the crankshaft tip with socket trick.
That kind of "how can I make this work", is sometimes the only thing I've got going for me.

I'm a sucker for tools that make my mechanical endeavors easier & this one has a siren's allure.
BTW The wife would have actually liked you if you hadn't shown me this.
I'll try & stay strong.



There is this version that's cheaper but fewer uses.



I must stay strong.
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Old 04-09-2013, 05:31 AM   #53
ME 109
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My eye says the front fender is correctly orientated. It's just sitting up at the front as high as it will go.
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Old 04-09-2013, 05:53 AM   #54
brittrunyon OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ME 109 View Post
My eye says the front fender is correctly orientated. It's just sitting up at the front as high as it will go.
I agree.
The fact that the tire is a 90/90 makes the fender look raised & larger or something.

I may go with a 100/90 when it gets replaced.
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Old 04-09-2013, 06:09 AM   #55
Bill Harris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SS
You do need a good center no matter what
An adequate center is simply a short bolt that threads into the end of the crankshaft. If your puller has a live center on the end, let it bear on the bolt head. If your puller has a conical tip on the screw, spot drill and c'sink a dimple in the bolt head and use a dollop of grease.

--Bill
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Old 04-11-2013, 03:27 PM   #56
brittrunyon OP
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3 days a searching & there's no appropriate pulley to be found locally, but I've got one coming, should be here Tuesday of next week.

So in the meantime:
Today I mounted a Dunlap K70 4.00 on the rear.
...........there was a significant difference in width from the 110/90 that was on it
...........height was very close



Installed new rear brake shoes
..........works hell of a lot better but
..........is it typical for the adjustment nut to be so far out to compensate for the thicker shoe depth?

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Old 04-11-2013, 03:34 PM   #57
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brittrunyon View Post
3 days a searching & there's no appropriate pulley to be found locally, but I've got one coming, should be here Tuesday of next week.

So in the meantime:
Today I mounted a Dunlap K70 4.00 on the rear.
...........there was a significant difference in width from the 110/90 that was on it
...........height was very close



Installed new rear brake shoes
..........works hell of a lot better but
..........is it typical for the adjustment nut to be so far out to compensate for the thicker shoe depth?
Nope. No good. You want the rod to be at about right angles to the arm or cable. Pull the arm and move it over a couple splines. Reset the pointer if you have one. But work the brake hard first and make sure everything is seated correctly.

Did you buy new shoes or re-line?
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Old 04-11-2013, 03:51 PM   #58
brittrunyon OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
Did you buy new shoes or re-line?
They came with the bike..........
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Old 04-11-2013, 04:04 PM   #59
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brittrunyon View Post
They came with the bike..........
Good deal, they're costly.
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Old 04-13-2013, 09:16 AM   #60
brittrunyon OP
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Went for a 5 mile ride & worked the brakes
..............things "seated" down some
..............pulled the brake arm & moved it one spline
..............no alignment mark that I could see so I scratched my own

Looks right to me.



Next up is the ICM
.............what should I use to clean the old "paste" off?



Found this at Electric Sheep Computers in Taos.
............"High Density Polysynthetic Silver Thermal Compound"
............thinking two or three "rice kernel" sized dollops will be sufficient.

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