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Old 04-13-2013, 10:11 AM   #61
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brittrunyon View Post
Went for a 5 mile ride & worked the brakes
..............things "seated" down some
..............pulled the brake arm & moved it one spline
..............no alignment mark that I could see so I scratched my own

Looks right to me.



Next up is the ICM
.............what should I use to clean the old "paste" off?



Found this at Electric Sheep Computers in Taos.
............"High Density Polysynthetic Silver Thermal Compound"
............thinking two or three "rice kernel" sized dollops will be sufficient.
Clean with anything. Don't get strong solvents, if used , on the plastic.
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Old 04-13-2013, 10:50 AM   #62
Bill Harris
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Originally Posted by brittrunyon View Post
They came with the bike..........
Give the new shoes a 1000 miles and check the contact pattern. If they're not seating will you may need to arc the linings to the drums.

--Bill
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Old 04-13-2013, 12:52 PM   #63
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Arc the linings?

I have seen SO many ICU's never have issues and never get the heat transfer grease cleaned. I don't see how it makes any difference. I clean and grease them if I am there but I am hardly ever there but I think the 'ritual' is yet more idiotnet snake oil.
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Old 04-13-2013, 12:54 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by brittrunyon View Post
3 days a searching & there's no appropriate pulley to be found locally, but I've got one coming, should be here Tuesday of next week.

So in the meantime:
Today I mounted a Dunlap K70 4.00 on the rear.
...........there was a significant difference in width from the 110/90 that was on it
...........height was very close



Installed new rear brake shoes
..........works hell of a lot better but
..........is it typical for the adjustment nut to be so far out to compensate for the thicker shoe depth?

ALL tires get flatter and wider as they wear. Back tires anyway.
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Old 04-13-2013, 02:04 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
ALL tires get flatter and wider as they wear. Back tires anyway.
And the mission is to find a tyre that will least flatten off.
Some mountain work will greatly assist.
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Old 04-13-2013, 06:14 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
Arc the linings?

I have seen SO many ICU's never have issues and never get the heat transfer grease cleaned. I don't see how it makes any difference. I clean and grease them if I am there but I am hardly ever there but I think the 'ritual' is yet more idiotnet snake oil.
"Snake oil" you say ? Is that like a placebo?

Wow, I feel better already!
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Old 04-17-2013, 06:48 PM   #67
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Well, it was fairly straight forward getting down to the nitty gritty.
..........front tire off, fender off, exhaust off, starter cover off, now lots-o-room
..........I just have to remember how it all goes back together
..........the timing chain cover came off easily with a little heat and tap of the dead blow

..........looks like there was a gasket sealer applied to the cover side but not the block
..........made it easier to clean up



..........I noticed upon removing the chain guide rail that it can be set in and really apply pressure on the chain.
..........it's slightly worn on the bottom end, perhaps it was not exactly parallel to the chain (?)
..........it was definitely applying pressure to the chain, cause if shifted away when I loosened the bolt & nut
..........I believe it's there as a "guide", not to apply pressure
..........the chain tensioner showed only slight wear from the chain

How does this sprocket look?
Note the bend in the chain from the chain guide rail.



I had to rotate the shaft & move the master link so there was adequate room to remove it.
..........didn't want it dropping in that hole



I should receive the puller tomorrow, so for now I'm cleaning things up.
When comparing the two chains, there doesn't appear to be any difference in length, but maybe that's not an accurate way to tell if the old chain is worn/stretched.
Things don't look to bad to an untrained eye.
I wonder if someone has be in here before?
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Old 04-17-2013, 07:51 PM   #68
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Yes, Mr. Goober A. Lot has been in there. Those gaskets are installed dry from the factory. Certainly no need for any sealant there let alone all that.

Did you check the timing before you took the chain off?

We need a close straight on view of the sprocket's teeth to access the wear.

supershaft screwed with this post 04-17-2013 at 08:07 PM
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Old 04-17-2013, 11:28 PM   #69
Prutser
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+1 on the sealant.
The chain tentionair is one of a later type. Not one the bike came with from germany. Thats another thing how you can tell its not the first time someone is taking the front cover off.
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Old 04-18-2013, 04:28 AM   #70
brittrunyon OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
Yes, Mr. Goober A. Lot has been in there. Those gaskets are installed dry from the factory. Certainly no need for any sealant there let alone all that.

Did you check the timing before you took the chain off?
No, did not check the timing before the chain came off, but it could easily be reinstalled then done if necessary.
I 'm supposing you speaking of lining up the timing marks.

At least you called me "Mr. Goober" and not just Goober.
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Old 04-18-2013, 09:48 AM   #71
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brittrunyon View Post
Well, it was fairly straight forward getting down to the nitty gritty.
..........front tire off, fender off, exhaust off, starter cover off, now lots-o-room
..........I just have to remember how it all goes back together
..........the timing chain cover came off easily with a little heat and tap of the dead blow

..........looks like there was a gasket sealer applied to the cover side but not the block
..........made it easier to clean up



..........I noticed upon removing the chain guide rail that it can be set in and really apply pressure on the chain.
..........it's slightly worn on the bottom end, perhaps it was not exactly parallel to the chain (?)
..........it was definitely applying pressure to the chain, cause if shifted away when I loosened the bolt & nut
..........I believe it's there as a "guide", not to apply pressure
..........the chain tensioner showed only slight wear from the chain

How does this sprocket look?
Note the bend in the chain from the chain guide rail.



I had to rotate the shaft & move the master link so there was adequate room to remove it.
..........didn't want it dropping in that hole



I should receive the puller tomorrow, so for now I'm cleaning things up.
When comparing the two chains, there doesn't appear to be any difference in length, but maybe that's not an accurate way to tell if the old chain is worn/stretched.
Things don't look to bad to an untrained eye.
I wonder if someone has be in here before?

The blue sealant looks like Hylomar.

With it assembled you try to lift the chain away from the big sprocket on the side directly across from the little sprocket and in a direction directly away from the little sprocket . The amount you can move it shows the wear to the chain/sprocket.
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Old 04-18-2013, 11:55 AM   #72
supershaft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brittrunyon View Post
No, did not check the timing before the chain came off, but it could easily be reinstalled then done if necessary.
I 'm supposing you speaking of lining up the timing marks.

At least you called me "Mr. Goober" and not just Goober.
I was talking about however used all that sealant the last time it was put together.

My point about checking the timing before you took the chain off was to see if it wasn't timed right. We can't tell that now.
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Old 04-18-2013, 12:05 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
I was talking about however used all that sealant the last time it was put together.

My point about checking the timing before you took the chain off was to see if it wasn't timed right. We can't tell that now.
Sometimes I feel like "Mr. Goober" when it comes to getting this far into engine repair.

Your absolutely right!
I will put the chain back on now, no big deal & take a look. Now I'm curious.
I " jumped the gun".

Here's what I found:
..........there's what appears to be yellow paint marks on both sprockets
..........looks like it's one tooth off
..........TDC (S mark) is in the timing window on crankcase
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Old 04-18-2013, 12:41 PM   #74
supershaft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brittrunyon View Post
Sometimes I feel like "Mr. Goober" when it comes to getting this far into engine repair.

Your absolutely right!
I will put the chain back on now, no big deal & take a look. Now I'm curious.
I " jumped the gun".
I wouldn't bother. It is too easy to pull the sprockets this way or that while you are putting the chain back on. That is unless you are positive nothing moved? Put the master link in from the front and roll it around. I suspect it was timed right anyway. I suspect a new chain was put on without replacing the crank sprocket. That gets a sloppy chain pretty quickly. About twice as fast as normal in my experience. The answer will be in how your crank sprocket looks.
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Old 04-18-2013, 12:52 PM   #75
Airhead Wrangler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brittrunyon View Post
Here's what I found:
..........there's what appears to be yellow paint marks on both sprockets
..........looks like it's one tooth off
..........TDC (S mark) is in the timing window on crankcase
Whoa there, Goober. The timing marks are not those yellow marks (although one of them is right). With the stamped dot on your cam sprocket pointing up, the tooth on the crank sprocket with the dark mark (now a yellow paint mark also) on it should point straight down at the dot on your cam sprocket. Turn your engine over a little and see what happens. You also need to take the slack out of the chain by pushing in on the right side of it like the tensioner would. That will affect the position of your timing marks a bit also. Last and certainly not least, the 'S' mark is not the mark for TDC. You want the 'OT' mark.

However, if you are right and it is a tooth out, who do I need to talk to to claim my prize?

From page 1:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler View Post
Or timing chain installed one tooth out maybe?
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