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Old 07-16-2013, 05:42 PM   #136
Scubalong
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Cry Holly Batman.......

I am so glad to see you and Patty safe, sorry about the bike
As mention above take care both of you and let us know what we can do to help. Good luck getting the bike fix so you both can continue on with your trip. Thanks for sharing your adventures with us.
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Old 07-16-2013, 06:49 PM   #137
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My heart goes out to you both, glad your ok. What a nightmare but im sure the adv community will help out.
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Old 07-16-2013, 07:17 PM   #138
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Khorog - Murghab

The Pamir Lodge was full when we arrived, and had people sleeping on the verandah. All adventurers seemed to stop at this lodge on the way through and it would have been good to find another motorcyclist to get their opinion on the bike but there weren't any.

We sought out the tourist information centre to find the best way of getting to Osh via Murghab. Dushanbe was the closest in the direction we came from and also a major city but that meant backtracking and not seeing anything new, so although we had the accident we still wanted to continue on the Pamir Highway...albeit by a different means of transport. This may be our only time in the area so we wanted to forge forward and do it while we're here. The tourist information centre were very, very helpful. They called the police for us and within ten minutes of telling them we needed to get to Murghab with a damaged bike we had a phone call from a guide saying he was going that way and can take our bike on top of the 4wd

There was nothing the police could do. I forgot to mention when the accident happened the truck driver looked down to see that we were alive then jumped in his truck and drove off. At first this really pissed me off but then Patty put into perspective and said maybe he has a family and kids and paying for a new triumph may mean selling the truck and could ruin him. It's only money, no point in ruining someone's livelihood over this. We have no insurance either btw - bastards wouldn't give it to us because we're not returning to the UK.

Using a truck loading bay we hoisted the bike on top of a jeep. Sorry about the blurry photo, the camera took a knock on the viewfinder so although it still takes good pictures we can't tell until they are on the computer. I still hadn't done anything on the bike so it still had 15l of petrol in it. The german tourist with us was les than impressed.



In Khorog we wanted to ground oursleves, think things through, talk to family and have a shower but it was go go go. Tired, stinky and a bit emotional we were on the road again.

Without our own wheels we were just one of the other tourists in the area. Some of these were taken from a moving 4wd













One advantage to travelling with a local guide is they know where to stop for lunch





yummy fried fish from a local lake





The roads were mostly sealed in spectacular scenery which made it that little bit more depressing. We couldn't stop as we wished to take it in

Our first ever yaks





Closer to Murghab the scenery really started turning it up















Tourism is really starting to kick-off in Tajikistan, there are travellers everywhere.

It's still a ride report if I'm in the vicinity of the bike right?



$120 to transport the two of us and the bike and 8 hours later we arrived in Murghab.

The practical 'can-do' approach of the locals still amazes me.



To get the bike down they took it off the jeep and sat it on a tank, where it sat until morning where I could inspect it with a fresh mind.











The bike was in a bad shape. Broken frame, complete frontend smashed, smashed sump and untold internal damage, dinted tank. After seeing the herculian effort required to get it on a transport I decided then I would leave it behind and take the parts that were of value.





In the hot sun at 3600 metres I toiled away taking the bike apart

Murghab from the guesthouse



Baking bread





Ready to be left behind. Everything I could take off with the tools I had



The next day I was in pain. The altitude mixed with sun stroke really messed me up and I lay in bed most of the day.

But I wasn't ready to let her go that easily! In the afternoon we ventured into town and found a driver willing to take us and the bike the 400km's to Osh for $115.

We met a Dutch guy named Bernaud and his wife and he was a truck mechanic who had almost travelled the world several times on an Enfield and he told me stories of using corks in his clutch and other inventive things. 495,000km's he's Enfield has done so I knew he was sound for advice. He took a look at the bike and said it was repairable. My hopes lifted.

With a plan we settled down and bought a watermelon like the locals.

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Old 07-16-2013, 08:03 PM   #139
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Glad you two are all right.
The bike sucks BIG time, but even though it might be the reason for ending the trip and I can totally understand your spirits must be in the basement right now, just think you two are unhurt which is a miracle...

I hope you sort everything out the best way possible with the least amount of hassle...

GOOD LUCK!
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SS in Vzla. screwed with this post 07-16-2013 at 08:10 PM
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:11 PM   #140
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I am really sorry to hear about the bad luck with the bike but glad to hear you both are doing well and in better spirits. Watermelon helps. Cant wait to see if you both can get the bike going again with your new truck mechanic friend. Awesome pictures and great adventure. Keep up the great work and keep your spirits high. You have a lot of support on this community here.
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:26 PM   #141
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Oh man that picture of your bike just breaks my heart. I hope you guys are back on the road, on 2 wheels, in no time.
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Old 07-16-2013, 09:16 PM   #142
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Thank you

Thank you all for the well wishes and support. Luckily we are both ok, only a couple of bumps and bruises but otherwise in good health.

We don't think this is the end of the trip, this is all part of the adventure
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Old 07-16-2013, 09:30 PM   #143
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Murghab - Osh

With a spring in our step...but not too springy because the exertion causes the altitude headache to come with a vengeance we loaded the bike into the back of a transport jeep.

Our host family have been amazing and so helpful and very understanding of our situation.



The road between Murghab - Osh is an adventurers wet dream. Remote, towering mountains of all different colours and open valleys with wildlife running beside the road...mostly orange beaver looking things. We were in a Russian made van with no windows so taking photos was difficult.

Life at 4,655 metres





You can just see the chinese barbed wire border fence on the far right.



Karakul lake. The camera doesn't come anywhere close to capturing how beautiful this place is







Someone's brave, busting through the chinese fence



I thought this was hilarious. In a non-english speaking country at a military checkpoint MC Hammer still makes an appearance



Bouncing along in our jeep on mostly sealed roads listening to relaxing local music the radio would occassionally wake us from our thought to the tune of "mama said just fuck you up". I don't think he spoke english.





This has been my single most jaw-dropping view, ever. The natural mix of colours blew my mind. This is right on the Tajik border







We rolled into Tes Guesthouse for the second time and there were 16 bikes parked out front. Perfect. They were on a tour and the guide (Patrick) approached me and said he has a mechanic and a welder and a workshop where I can leave my bike until it's fixed. MuzToo http://www.muztoo.com/index.php/en/

We loaded the bike up in his 4wd and strung it from his garage where I could inspect it properly.







The radiator is bent out of shape. I don't know if the mount at the top bent in this accident but my suspicion is it took a knock awhile ago before I installed the SW-Motech bars and that would explain the overheating.



The cylinder head seems ok. You can see where the SW-Motech bars hit it but it hasn't cracked it.



The crank case looks ok. The bash plate took enough of the impact to smash the sump but the fact the plastic oil pickup has only very minor damage to me means the crankcase didn't take a big hit.



There is a pipe next to the oil pickup that I can't identify from the workshop manual so I'm not sure where it attaches, if at all. Any ideas?



Exhaust seems ok. There are a couple of knocks but I can't tell if there are cracks or not. I suspect not.



The yokes are ok. Forks compress as normal.



Frame is broken all the way around and has a 3mm crack running from it. We can drill a small hole to stop the crack travelling and weld and brace it all up. Makes me happy it's a steel frame. Weight in the pannier should put the cracked frame into compression not tension and according to the few people I've spoken to is repairable.



Plastics are all smashed to shit but that's the least of my worries



Cockpit and headlight assembly is completely smashed and wasn't recovered. The wires connecting the headlight had a few cut but fixable.

So once all is said and done it looks repairable, at least enough to finish the trip and get it to Oz where more permanent repairs can be done. If this accident happened in Oz or UK it would be a 'constructive write-off' to use insurance speak but right now we're in Kyrgyzstan mid-trip so we can't abandon it like that.

I emailed and called Triumph central to see if there is anyway in which they can help by way of recommending a repairer and telling me where the closest parts outlet is so I can save on postage costs. UK team couldn't help and overseas team took my email but I'm yet to hear from them.

I contacted Jack Lilley Triumph UK for a quote of the parts and included some photos so they can help me select the parts I need to get it going. I heard from them almost immediately and they had some questions which I've answered now I'm waiting for them to come back to me.

I think Triumph's response will be important through all this if the 800xc is to live up to the adventure name that it's being touted as. If a dutch guy can make an enfield run on corks as clutch plates then we still have hope.

Today I will look over it again with a fine tooth comb and see if there is anything I have missed.
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Old 07-16-2013, 10:02 PM   #144
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Glad you two are OK.... as a bike builder buy trade, from your photos its definitely repairable, it'll take some work but you'll be amazed what the locals can do...NOTHING goes to waste, and i mean NOTHING...if i can help in anyway from mechanic/ welder/ builder point of view drop me a PM
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Old 07-16-2013, 11:26 PM   #145
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You're attitude is awesome! Not only do you continue to take photo's you continue to post a report for us sitting at home watching and wishing you well from afar.

I sat here looking at some of your sump pics thinking "That's farked! He'll just leave it and walk away" only to find you are going to see if you can fix it and continue

I would have told the insurance mob you were going to go back to England... and when you got here cancel the policy.

Good luck! I have nothing that I can offer you, for if I did I would I wish you all the best and thank you for sharing the highs and lows with us
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Old 07-17-2013, 12:00 AM   #146
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Glad you guys are ok. When I got your email the other day, all I could think was F**k.

I hope you get her running.

Will you plan to just run the trans Siberian to Vlad or will you try to catch us for the BAM? We will start Aug 1 from Irkutsk. As of now, you still have 2 tires waiting for you in Irkutsk.
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:27 AM   #147
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So glad you two are ok...
Hope you can get it fixed for the journey to Oz
We were the two ozzies on the Strom we met near Bishkek
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Old 07-17-2013, 04:12 AM   #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtb View Post
You're attitude is awesome! Not only do you continue to take photo's you continue to post a report for us sitting at home watching and wishing you well from afar.

I sat here looking at some of your sump pics thinking "That's farked! He'll just leave it and walk away" only to find you are going to see if you can fix it and continue

Good luck! I have nothing that I can offer you, for if I did I would I wish you all the best and thank you for sharing the highs and lows with us
As stated your can-do attitude and documentation is impressive-both of you! Great you are not also broken- (I like my Tiger too but its just a machine after all). You certainly go the extra mile with the 'real world" testing.
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Old 07-17-2013, 04:46 AM   #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuiltyParty View Post
I think Triumph's response will be important through all this if the 800xc is to live up to the adventure name that it's being touted as. If a dutch guy can make an enfield run on corks as clutch plates then we still have hope.
+1

If Triumph is smart, they'll do what they can to help out. This is a perfect publicity opportunity for them. They'll likely not see the big picture though if the pencil pushers get involved
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Old 07-17-2013, 05:08 AM   #150
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Patty's reaction to the trucker running off shows what kind of a person she is. Even if your bike never goes again, you're still way ahead of the game if you hang on to her.
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