ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Old's Cool > Airheads
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 04-10-2013, 06:53 PM   #31
Plaka
Brevis illi vita est
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Oddometer: 4,580
Quote:
Originally Posted by Highwood View Post
Thanks for the link to a description of "plug chopping." I'll give that some thought. There's lots of wide open prairie to the east.

Before I do anything else, I need to get properly-gapped, non-pitted points, a good condenser and the timing set. Then I'll go for a proper run and see if I can recreate the problem.

I have a suspicion that it is a multi-issue problem (points, timing, atu, idle screw, mixture screw), therefore requiring a disciplined approach. If I change too many things at once, I won't know what made a difference. I do believe the key is a very full warm up. I suspect I'll be riding around with a screwdriver and a manometer for a while.

Off for four days with my sweetie. Points and condensor won't be in until late next week earliest. Those that are helping deserve, at the very minimum, to know how it turns out. I promise to report back post points and timing.
Pitting on the points won't matter, you file off the tit so you can get a feeler gauge in there to gap them. But once they get pitted it keeps up and your dwell settings won't hold. So you replace them. But I used to keep a points file in my toolkit anyway.
Plaka is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2013, 06:59 PM   #32
Plaka
Brevis illi vita est
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Oddometer: 4,580
Quote:
Originally Posted by Highwood View Post
I believe the pitting is too severe to be addressed with a points file. Just ordered points and condenser for arrival late next week.

I'm uncertain what you mean by "do plug chops to evaluate the mixture." Help please.

There is no ghosting at the full advance mark with the old points, just at idle. Does that change your view on the bent camshaft nose? Alternatively, given no ghosting at full advance, does that mean the bend is small enough not to be having a significant impact? Or, does the bend mean that carb balance is virtually impossible because one is using mixture to try to compensate for unequal left to right ignition? Is it possible there is a bearing going that could cause the camshaft nose to wobble? Can that bearing be fixed easily?

I'm reluctant to throw $300 at an electronic ignition, but I love the bike. Is there consensus on the best electronic ignition? Dyna or Omega? Or, are both good and I am asking the equivalent of "what oil should I use and how often should I change it?"

Thanx for your help.
I know nothing about the Omega.

I was not happy with two Dyna units in a row. When they failed, as all electronics do eventually, they went intermittent, which was difficult to diagnose. Talking with the people at Dyna was not pleasant.

I got a Boyer and liked it. It died eventually, dead as in dead, easy to diagnose and lasted long enough for me to be very satisfied I got my moneys worth. I bought another and it was still going strong when I parted out the bike years later.
Plaka is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2013, 12:42 AM   #33
ME 109
Beastly Adventurer
 
ME 109's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Albury Australia
Oddometer: 2,000
Quote:
Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
Carb adjustment, carb adjustment, and carb adjustment.
Man I've been looking all over my bike for that third carb. Danged if I can find it.
Where the hell is it?
__________________
Lord of the Bings
ME 109 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2013, 09:57 AM   #34
Highwood OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Banff, AB
Oddometer: 110
More Data - Winning, I think

So, got the new points and condenser. After a short swearing session getting the points gapped correctly, including sacrificing a .38mm feeler gauge to a length I could work with, I fired the bike up and it ran like shit.

Got out my timing light and it was running well advanced and almost 1500rpm at idle. More swearing and I got the bike timed well at idle and very well at full advance, though the idle settings were still too high. (Seems remarkable to me that the timing was so advanced given i did not adjust the timing to install the new points.)

Set about adjusting idle mixture and idle stops and noticed the left carb wasn't responding as well as the right carb. Since I had all the settings ballled up anyway, I decided to check the needle settings. Off with the top of the the carbs and the discovery that the needles were at the highest setting, not the third notch as indicated by snowbum et al. Adjusted the needles and reinstalled.

Cleaned and gapped the plugs, garage set the mixture and idle to 1050 rpm including balance at idle and just off idle with homemade manometer (20ft of 1/4 inch hose and 15 inches per side of two-stroke oil). Took the bike out for a short blast, including some runs up a steep hill in 4th gear, accelerating from 2500rpm to redline.

Bike is running well now, but is was 3C and late in the day and I only rode it for about 30 minutes. I haven't had a chance to run it for a half hour or more at a cruise. That being said, it started beautifully from cold (6C in garage) with full choke and idle at 850ish. Plugs are a proper tan colour indicating that mixture is at least close to correct. Bike returned to proper idle throughout the test run.

I think I may have it sorted.

It was -10 this morning, but the sun is out. Perhaps I can get it out this afternoon for a proper, extended run and I'll confirm all is right with the world.

Thank you to all for your kind help.
Highwood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2013, 06:00 AM   #35
swanker
Shadetree Tinkerer
 
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Oddometer: 141

Hell yeah, a big +1 to that!
Great job there and something for me to keep in mind as I troubleshoot my high idle issue.
swanker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2013, 10:28 AM   #36
Plaka
Brevis illi vita est
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Oddometer: 4,580
Quote:
Originally Posted by Highwood View Post
So, got the new points and condenser. After a short swearing session getting the points gapped correctly, including sacrificing a .38mm feeler gauge to a length I could work with, I fired the bike up and it ran like shit.

Got out my timing light and it was running well advanced and almost 1500rpm at idle. More swearing and I got the bike timed well at idle and very well at full advance, though the idle settings were still too high. (Seems remarkable to me that the timing was so advanced given i did not adjust the timing to install the new points.)

Set about adjusting idle mixture and idle stops and noticed the left carb wasn't responding as well as the right carb. Since I had all the settings ballled up anyway, I decided to check the needle settings. Off with the top of the the carbs and the discovery that the needles were at the highest setting, not the third notch as indicated by snowbum et al. Adjusted the needles and reinstalled.

Cleaned and gapped the plugs, garage set the mixture and idle to 1050 rpm including balance at idle and just off idle with homemade manometer (20ft of 1/4 inch hose and 15 inches per side of two-stroke oil). Took the bike out for a short blast, including some runs up a steep hill in 4th gear, accelerating from 2500rpm to redline.

Bike is running well now, but is was 3C and late in the day and I only rode it for about 30 minutes. I haven't had a chance to run it for a half hour or more at a cruise. That being said, it started beautifully from cold (6C in garage) with full choke and idle at 850ish. Plugs are a proper tan colour indicating that mixture is at least close to correct. Bike returned to proper idle throughout the test run.

I think I may have it sorted.

It was -10 this morning, but the sun is out. Perhaps I can get it out this afternoon for a proper, extended run and I'll confirm all is right with the world.

Thank you to all for your kind help.
Now I'd get a points file. it doesn't fix the points, it just gets the little tit off so you can get an accurate setting. Goes in the on-bike toolkit for roadside repairs. Some dirt in the points compartment can hurt those point faces and on a trip, it's nice to be able to dress them and reset and just keep going.

If you know a diabetic score some alcohol pads off them. Real handy for cleaning points (and halogen bulbs). Not good for glasses. But they keep well. You could buy a box too but it's a multi lifetime supply.
Plaka is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2013, 06:10 PM   #37
Highwood OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Banff, AB
Oddometer: 110
Thumb Success!!!!

Weather got to 8C and that was good enough for me.
Took a 30 minute ride throughout the rpm range, even breaking a few laws with pulls up over 140kph..
Took a screw driver and did a final tweak on mixture on the side of the road. Returned to garage and rebalanced everything with manometer, then back out for another run.
Smooth, smooth, smooth. The tachometer is useful as my feet and ass are no longer accurate measures. Bike pulls very well. Plugs a beautiful tan colour. Idle at 1000, returning predictably and promptly.
As I said earlier, I've never ridden another airhead. But, I'm pretty sure this one is now sorted. Not quite as smooth as my R12GSA, but pretty close for gear that is 30 years older.
Many thanks for the help and suggestions.
Forecast is for rain and snow for the next three days.
Highwood is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 01:42 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014