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Old 04-11-2013, 04:50 PM   #1
Frey OP
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Scored a KLR Tengai, Sitting for years, Rebuild?[!]

Hey y'all so I'm a fairly new rider. About one year now. Been doing all my maintenance myself usually under the shade of a tree if I'm lucky. I posted this http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=835926 about my KLR 2005

Then when I came into a KLR Tengai for 175 Bucks I knew I had spare parts or at least a test dummy! On with the pictures...

Here's my bike now packed for camping. Just did the valves, mostly stock except foot pegs, bars, ninja twin piston front brake and cylinder, oversized rotor, acerbis standard sport bike front fender (20 years old), clutch lever, thermo bob, wrist watch on bars to tell the time



Here's a sneak peak at fork mounted YZF1000 lights. Fixing the bracket as we lost light, got them painted, this weekend we will do the wiring.



Here's the Tengai as it should look



Note: I'm going to admit my mistakes as I go!!



Had to get it into the car, it had no kick stand! was disassembling it in the front yard in the sun, now I know I could have hurt the forks with them down in the trees like this, I think they're ok. Of course I bent the stock shift lever dragging it into the Subaru Forester ha. When I got home I sat down with my [travel and only] tool kit and a can of liquid wrench and started taking everything apart.



Tengai 天涯 means "the end of the sky" in japanese which is pretty f***ing cool!



the tengai passenger foot peg bracket doubles as a rear master cylinder guard. not super vulnerable but still sweet deal, KLR should have this! It can be mounted on the KLR which makes the KLR's foot peg mount superfluous. And of course then the Tengai wouldn't have any pegs...



dont think the sprocket guard has ever been removed. there are hatched spider eggs and other goodies



this is a motorcycle



frame supported on wood, engine case not touching the ground. time to try to hammer this b**** out. if you notice something missing from this picture consider it foreshadowing. also notice the fender on the fork. the only stripped bolt! i need vice grips.



After doing this a bit with liquid wrench i had no idea what to do. I split the soft wood around the bolt and feared spreading the frame as my father has done many years ago.

Then my father pointed out without the engine mounts in there would be twisting force on the bolt, the engine is a heavy SOB. DUH



bought a can of pb blaster. tightened all frame mounts, hit intermittently with rubber mallet. put the nut on flush to the end of the threads giving me a 'nail head' turn it on the side, and one good hit with the sledgehammer and she budges. after that its all good. lots of old grey grease...

And so what now? Maybe I will split the engine here (in my bedroom room with cardboard on the floor) or I will drive it up to pop. Would be a shame to make the drive with a dud. Maybe I will end up looking for a parallel twin!!
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Frey screwed with this post 04-11-2013 at 05:05 PM
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Old 04-12-2013, 05:57 AM   #2
Tsotsie
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Great Story!

1/2 the fun is wrenching, the other 1/2 is the riding!
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:06 AM   #3
Unstable Rider
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+1 brother, it's under your skin now.

No turning back.

Do-up a rebuild on that motor and stick her back in.

Make it suffer !

Go Tengai!

Great story. Those bikes on the rare-ish side.
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Old 04-16-2013, 05:33 AM   #4
TengaiJohn
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Good deal on the bike, too bad you couldn't restore it. That tank will fetch you $75 or more, the plastics even more, the front fender is hard to find and the instrument cluster alone is worth $150.

Enjoy the bike!!!
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Old 04-21-2013, 04:27 PM   #5
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Bluhduh

Well my main bike got stolen a week which is a total bummer. It has pushed this project forward and I got a lot more done



everything on the shelves was on the floor!



here we go



we're in for it now!



getting the rotor out with the engine out is very hard. my pants are really dirty now holding the engine in my legs. with a long pipe i managed to get it off with a satisfying crack



happy that the stocker was bent not brocket, spring was intact too. got the hole drilled for the torsion spring and decided to go into the top end while i was moving forward

well all was going so well until





needless to say i was very unhappy. there was a freaking leaf in there!! i guess the spark plug was out for a long time? a leaf obviously cant fit through the carb. when i checked the spark plug on purchase it was clean on the last few threads, i guess it was a new spark plug

Question is, so what now? 685/705 kit? what all is included and what all will need to be replaced anyway? could water have slipped past the piston and hurt stuff below too? the oil didnt have water in it and everything on the left side seems fine. the coolant passages are full of gooey white stuff. while im here what can i upgrade as well? this is my first time doing this so any advice would be much appreciated. thanks for reading!
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“Don't never participate in no bad scenes, he reminded himself; that was his motto in life.”

05 KLR 650 Almost 30k *STOLEN*
90 KLR 692 TENGAI 30k *REVIVED and SOLD*

Frey screwed with this post 04-21-2013 at 04:36 PM
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Old 04-21-2013, 06:31 PM   #6
Beezer
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the 685 kit needs a cylinder that is from 1996 or newer.... the walls are thicker. what I would do is clean up the bore as best you can & take it to a machine shop & see if they think they can bore it to an oversize. then you're looking for a new piston. the Kawi pistons were changed in '08 so the rings are slightly different than the older design. if you find an old Kawi piston, it will also need old style rings.... otherwise get a matching pair of new design, or....

possibly....

http://www.wossnerpistons.com/products/


note they have a 102mm slug.... the stock bore is 100mm, so that will clean up a lot of damage if needed

as for the head. pop out the valves. the seats are the question, the rest is no big deal. if the seats are ok I would have them cut & get new valves.


any sign of rust on the con rod or crank?
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Old 04-21-2013, 06:37 PM   #7
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i read about the need of the 1996. but what about the 705? dont they replace the sleeve itself? the bottom end looks better than my 05 with twice the mileage... havent gotten any deeper than the left side off and the top...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beezer View Post
the 685 kit needs a cylinder that is from 1996 or newer.... the walls are thicker. what I would do is clean up the bore as best you can & take it to a machine shop & see if they think they can bore it to an oversize. then you're looking for a new piston. the Kawi pistons were changed in '08 so the rings are slightly different than the older design. if you find an old Kawi piston, it will also need old style rings.... otherwise get a matching pair of new design, or....

possibly....

http://www.wossnerpistons.com/products/


note they have a 102mm slug.... the stock bore is 100mm, so that will clean up a lot of damage if needed

as for the head. pop out the valves. the seats are the question, the rest is no big deal. if the seats are ok I would have them cut & get new valves.


any sign of rust on the con rod or crank?
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“Don't never participate in no bad scenes, he reminded himself; that was his motto in life.”

05 KLR 650 Almost 30k *STOLEN*
90 KLR 692 TENGAI 30k *REVIVED and SOLD*
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Old 04-21-2013, 07:13 PM   #8
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i guess with the piston rebuild (looking at the 658 kit) im looking at 400 dollars. If the motor was fine it would be worth rebuilding but at this point I think it'd be better to buy a $1500 klr and use this as a donor bike...

too bad there is no way to rebuild and improve this old 1990
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“Don't never participate in no bad scenes, he reminded himself; that was his motto in life.”

05 KLR 650 Almost 30k *STOLEN*
90 KLR 692 TENGAI 30k *REVIVED and SOLD*
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Old 04-21-2013, 08:06 PM   #9
KustomizingKid
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I'd have no qualms about rebuilding that engine... Nothing that can't be easily fixed.
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Old 04-23-2013, 03:44 PM   #10
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So the issue with the older cylinder and overboring is the water jacket aka coolant passages around the cylinder sleeve. Trying to get a 1996+ cylinder assembly now for the Tengai. Would like to come back with a bit more power to make up for the sad feeling of having my first bike stolen...
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“Don't never participate in no bad scenes, he reminded himself; that was his motto in life.”

05 KLR 650 Almost 30k *STOLEN*
90 KLR 692 TENGAI 30k *REVIVED and SOLD*

Frey screwed with this post 04-25-2013 at 07:24 PM
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:43 PM   #11
Ramv
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Nothing to add other than I loved my Tengaii which I bought used in the mid 90s.
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Old 04-24-2013, 05:26 PM   #12
Frey OP
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i think the piston is ok, i cleaned it up with a rag and solvent







Is it possible to simply clean up this sleeve and get new rings? I assume not...

LA Sleeves are 100 bucks off ebay. I can buy new valves and new rings for less than a hundo combined.

I also have read that if I replace the sleeve I will need to rebore it, if I rebore it will I need to get a new piston for it to marry up?

At this point I was thinking I should just get the $400 eagle mike 658cc kit with rebore, end up with a lighter piston and be done with it, if all that work needs to be done anyway...

http://www.eaglemike.com/658-forged-...-kit-658pk.htm

Can someone who knows better please shed some light on what here is salvageable?

Thanks in advance!!
__________________
“Don't never participate in no bad scenes, he reminded himself; that was his motto in life.”

05 KLR 650 Almost 30k *STOLEN*
90 KLR 692 TENGAI 30k *REVIVED and SOLD*

Frey screwed with this post 04-24-2013 at 10:20 PM
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:42 PM   #13
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Nuke
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“Don't never participate in no bad scenes, he reminded himself; that was his motto in life.”

05 KLR 650 Almost 30k *STOLEN*
90 KLR 692 TENGAI 30k *REVIVED and SOLD*

Frey screwed with this post 04-24-2013 at 08:14 PM
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:51 PM   #14
BenFenner
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Makes me wonder (if you need transportation on the cheap and with the quickness) if you couldn't get 30k+ miles out of it if you just wire wheeled the head combustion chamber (with valves in place or not) and then wire wheeled the cylinder wall (in diagonal directions only) with a yellow metal wire wheel to clean up the cylinder wall. You could have a relatively well sealed and operational engine for almost free. It might not last 100k miles like that, and it might suffer from some abnormal blow-by, but it could probably get you riding around with the idea that at some point you'd do the engine correctly, or swap something else in, or whatever.

You'd have wheels though... If that's a priority.

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Old 04-25-2013, 02:17 PM   #15
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I like your style.

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