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Old 04-25-2013, 06:02 PM   #16
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haha in a forester no less!

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Originally Posted by sevenpointsixtwo View Post
I like your style.

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Old 05-20-2013, 02:35 PM   #17
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Ok! Scored a 2002 Cylinder Sleeve, sent it off to eagle mike for a 692cc over bore and all the other minor farkles, front sprocket, jet kit, valve seals, subframe upgrade etc... took my valve head to a local machine shop. waiting on both of these to come back. Got a camera card for my camera so no more phone pics! here's what i've done in the mean time!



balancer system



high res of cylinder



knowledge is power!



fork springs and spacers, these are surprisingly small... don't think progressive spring kits work from the klr for the tengai, found some tengai progressive on ebay, 200 dollars with shipping, cant bite that cost right now with everything else but maybe someday or better yet front fork swap! in a year or something...



fork seals, old, new, old, new





old piston, used needle nose pliers to remove snap rings and a 16mm socket to push out the piston pin




I'd say I'm a week away from getting the engine in the frame, I have ordered or have already received everything I have foreseen needing



expensive necessary stuff! daystar fork boots, used oem seat cover (still gotta get some foam), uni air filter, tengai brake pads, DID atv 106 link x-chain (was cheaper and heard they are stouter than motorcycle chains), moose racing control guards, pro taper high bend atv bars, clutch and throttle cables, old brake master cylinder and clutch lever stock from my 2005 KLR, YZF1000 headlight and home made brackets, fork brace, 2008 KLR coolant resevoir, iridium spark plug
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90 KLR 692 TENGAI 30k *REVIVED and SOLD*

Frey screwed with this post 06-26-2013 at 01:59 AM
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Old 05-20-2013, 07:07 PM   #18
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every little thing has to be taken care of... used DON's vermont registration trick to get a registration card and plate for my title-less bike



serviced the swing arm link bearings, had to replace one of the seals



cleaned all with solvents and a wire brush, where did my 3 hours go?



this thing was the b****



short focal length isnt the best for some things



this bolt had a tough life

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Old 05-20-2013, 07:59 PM   #19
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since there is wear on the balancer chain guide, look hard at the balancer weights too.... specifically the springs in the damper system. they are known to wear & break or fall out. screws with the balancing act as well as possibly putting more parts in the engine to float around. the system was changed in 96 to make the weights solid. the solid ones are a direct replacement if you can lay hands on them (only $$$, check Mike or ebay).

as for progressive springs.... if Ricor makes valves that will fit don't bother with springs, save money for that. you can also play with fork oil weight and quantity to change the ride. raising the oil level helps control fork dive... so does adding 10 pis air pressure
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Old 05-21-2013, 09:31 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beezer View Post
since there is wear on the balancer chain guide, look hard at the balancer weights too.... specifically the springs in the damper system. they are known to wear & break or fall out. screws with the balancing act as well as possibly putting more parts in the engine to float around. the system was changed in 96 to make the weights solid. the solid ones are a direct replacement if you can lay hands on them (only $$$, check Mike or ebay).

as for progressive springs.... if Ricor makes valves that will fit don't bother with springs, save money for that. you can also play with fork oil weight and quantity to change the ride. raising the oil level helps control fork dive... so does adding 10 pis air pressure
Thanks for the tips. What are your recommendations for fork oil, pressure and two up riding, specifically in the dirt? I got some oil, planning to go half 10w half 15w... I emailed Ricor, I think the Gen 2 or KLR 650 C valves would work as I believe the Tengai has 41mm forks (the service manual doesn't specify anywhere I've found, I've got calipers at work I reckon I otta measure them)

I am low on cash and plan to drop another k or 2 into the bike in a year, might hold off on the balancer upgrades, all the sprockets look healthy (teeth) and no springs are missing. i did check for play, there is a small amount in everything but that seems to be the case with almost everything in life. all the bearings look good in the rest of the bike too, only 12k miles on the whole bike... everything that was in oil seems happy, balancer wasn't broken nor was the spring...
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Frey screwed with this post 05-21-2013 at 09:58 PM
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Old 05-21-2013, 09:53 PM   #21
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gotta love them tengais , the klr should have been a cross between the tengai , klr600 and versys . that would be my perfect bike ..
the tengai has different forks from what i can remember , does that fork brace fit ?
humm tengai versys
tensys ... vergai ...
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Old 05-21-2013, 10:31 PM   #22
Beezer
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before I put in the Ricors I was running ATF which is apx 10 weight. the good way to get the right amount of oil is to pull out the spring, collapse the fork and add oil to a specified height from the top. for the Gen I forks that number is 165-170mm. that was the original setting that was later changed to 190mm, but 170 works better. raising the oil quantity reduces the air in the fork & that reduces the bounce. a lot of us use 170mm and 10 psi air.

the Ricors have valving that takes care of a lot of what was cushioned with air in the OEM fork. I run mine at 40mm (yes, forty) and use 5 wt (ATF and Marvel 50/50). its as good as my DRZ on washboard, potholes etc. in fact, I had YZ forks for a while but went back to the oems with the valves. easy install too,,,, drain the oil, pull the spring, drop in the valve, pour in oil, install the spring.

I know you'll ask... the giant USD forks limit the lock, and unless you are jumping it or something, the Ricors will give you all the front end you will ever need. the get a decent rear shock

fork brace is nice too, but do the oil level first. if you want a stiffer front, add oil. when I did mine first off.... it was 50cc below the 190 mark (new, from the dealer.... wobbled like hell at hiway speed). I put it at 190.... better,but.... so I pulled the air valves and added 10cc at a time until it quit wobbling. turned out to be 165mm. then later, I ran into a post about raising the oil and that 170 was the old service point.
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Old 05-21-2013, 10:57 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beezer View Post
before I put in the Ricors I was running ATF which is apx 10 weight. the good way to get the right amount of oil is to pull out the spring, collapse the fork and add oil to a specified height from the top. for the Gen I forks that number is 165-170mm. that was the original setting that was later changed to 190mm, but 170 works better. raising the oil quantity reduces the air in the fork & that reduces the bounce. a lot of us use 170mm and 10 psi air.

the Ricors have valving that takes care of a lot of what was cushioned with air in the OEM fork. I run mine at 40mm (yes, forty) and use 5 wt (ATF and Marvel 50/50). its as good as my DRZ on washboard, potholes etc. in fact, I had YZ forks for a while but went back to the oems with the valves. easy install too,,,, drain the oil, pull the spring, drop in the valve, pour in oil, install the spring.

I know you'll ask... the giant USD forks limit the lock, and unless you are jumping it or something, the Ricors will give you all the front end you will ever need. the get a decent rear shock

fork brace is nice too, but do the oil level first. if you want a stiffer front, add oil. when I did mine first off.... it was 50cc below the 190 mark (new, from the dealer.... wobbled like hell at hiway speed). I put it at 190.... better,but.... so I pulled the air valves and added 10cc at a time until it quit wobbling. turned out to be 165mm. then later, I ran into a post about raising the oil and that 170 was the old service point.
i have a fork brace i was planning to put on my '05 but it didnt fit with my low fender so if that fits on the tengai itll be there. i do like the idea of fine tuning by adding oil through the air valves, thanks for that tip. with the oil drained is it impossible to just add an equal amount of oil to each fork instead of constructing a depth measuring device... i cant imagine the volume would vary anymore than the feel would vary...

the main consideration with a fork swap is just that the tengai forks are shorter... im 6'2 so i dont find the stock klr too tall. I AM curious if the lower aero profile of the tengai will result in any dramatic highway worthiness. even without the fairings, which being as damaged as they are, and the amount of dirt i plan to see, i won't be installing.

could be genius to find a KLR 650 C or E front forks tubes (41mm) and put them into the tengai fork bottoms (which has the low mount fender and dual piston caliper stock) we'll see this all down the road. thanks for your final tuning tips also.
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05 KLR 650 Almost 30k *STOLEN*
90 KLR 692 TENGAI 30k *REVIVED and SOLD*

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Old 05-21-2013, 11:01 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepsandbikes View Post
gotta love them tengais , the klr should have been a cross between the tengai , klr600 and versys . that would be my perfect bike ..
the tengai has different forks from what i can remember , does that fork brace fit ?
humm tengai versys
tensys ... vergai ...
give us 6 gears and ill deal with having a single! i've read about klr600's with 650 pistons in there, apparently way faster than 685s... la la la if they make my perfect bike it will be a 2013+ and i won't be able to afford it
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“Don't never participate in no bad scenes, he reminded himself; that was his motto in life.”

05 KLR 650 Almost 30k *STOLEN*
90 KLR 692 TENGAI 30k *REVIVED and SOLD*
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Old 05-23-2013, 04:16 PM   #25
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wheel bearings are out! tried to cock the spacer to the side and hammer it out with a drift but i wasn't getting anywhere.

auto zone has a blind hole puller set

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=391362_0_0_

160 dollars but its a loaner so you can use it and return it for full refund. I strapped my wheels to the back of my other klr and took them down there and did it in the parking lot to save the trip, bring two adjustable wrenches/vice grips/wrench set etc and either take out the C clips first or bring that tool too.









new tires and tubes arrived as well as fork oil, cable luber. I'm gonna try to resurrect the choke cable and have replaced all the rest. Now I figure im gonna go ahead and completely dissemble the forks with the long extension, might as well since I've serviced everything else (and some of it looked so bad!)
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“Don't never participate in no bad scenes, he reminded himself; that was his motto in life.”

05 KLR 650 Almost 30k *STOLEN*
90 KLR 692 TENGAI 30k *REVIVED and SOLD*

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Old 05-30-2013, 12:13 AM   #26
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fork internals. seems the valves are simpler than the klr valves in the manual, maybe all the bikes in the 90s were like this?



inner fork tube loaded up with everything as it will sit once its inside the outer fork tube.



coworker



extension on the left to reach down into the silver fork tubes to reach the damper to get it out...



ends of the damper (where the 22mm nut fits into, the threaded end is on the opposite end, if you try to unthread it without holding the damper in place, it will just spin inside the fork tube)



half fill a 22mm socket with paper towel and then put in a 22mm nut. this will fit into the end of the damper so you can unbolt it without it spinning



how you carry pvc on a bike i guess... (got the pleasure to borrow a mates bike for a month while he was out of the country)



1.5" pvc being used as a bushing, oil, and dust seal pusher. it should be noted that i used a pvc coupling below this on the seals as it was a little wider and beefier and pushed on the outside not inside, the pvc alone worked well on the bushing as it fit the fork tubes closer. also the bushings have a split so if they aren't fitting down evenly, i took a screw driver and pressed one side in that was sticking out.



seals in, retainer clip in place



forks without the springs (fully compressed)





I have confirmed that the KLR fork brace does not fit these forks, they are 43mm and the klr is 41mm. I think the second gen KLR has 43mm so things for those forks should be able to be used... I'm gonna see about getting my brace machined out a lil... oh and I put in maxima fork oil half 10 half 15 weight 380ml each fork
__________________
“Don't never participate in no bad scenes, he reminded himself; that was his motto in life.”

05 KLR 650 Almost 30k *STOLEN*
90 KLR 692 TENGAI 30k *REVIVED and SOLD*

Frey screwed with this post 06-26-2013 at 02:02 AM
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Old 05-30-2013, 01:12 AM   #27
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there is a bushing that goes inside the left side of the rear hub.... it fits between the 2 bearings in the cush drive. be sure that gets back in there, it has a habit of falling out whenever the cush is apart
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Old 05-31-2013, 01:27 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Beezer View Post
there is a bushing that goes inside the left side of the rear hub.... it fits between the 2 bearings in the cush drive. be sure that gets back in there, it has a habit of falling out whenever the cush is apart
yeah!
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“Don't never participate in no bad scenes, he reminded himself; that was his motto in life.”

05 KLR 650 Almost 30k *STOLEN*
90 KLR 692 TENGAI 30k *REVIVED and SOLD*
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Old 05-31-2013, 01:38 AM   #29
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So I just got my new guide in the mail and it looks exactly the same! I wish someone would have told me they come dipped in plastic only on two sides.... now to pay return shipping...
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“Don't never participate in no bad scenes, he reminded himself; that was his motto in life.”

05 KLR 650 Almost 30k *STOLEN*
90 KLR 692 TENGAI 30k *REVIVED and SOLD*
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Old 05-31-2013, 04:43 AM   #30
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Cool doggie!
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