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Old 04-13-2013, 11:09 AM   #16
GAS GUY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joexr View Post
I don't think he started with the center dial on O. If it was out .1055 he would'nt need a dial indicater to see the run out. Oh and that's 1.055 by the way.
Wrong again.
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Old 04-13-2013, 11:15 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trc.rhubarb View Post
Each 10/20/30 is .01/.02/.03
Each | | is.001 .002 .003
Each full rotation of the dial ticks the little dial .1/.2/.3
10 full rotations is 1"

so... dunno what the small read but the big dial is showing .0055 (roughly) or .1055 if the small was at 0
Exactly, good info.
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Old 04-13-2013, 11:34 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAS GUY View Post
Wrong.
Right you are. Just looked at the pic again.
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Old 04-13-2013, 11:40 AM   #19
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This is a very hard thing to do via a picture... When I indicate something I make a "map" via a sharpie on the part... Pick a datum, put the indicator in the middle of its range and take 4 opposing readings.

This would be so much better as a 45 second YouTube video.
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Old 04-13-2013, 11:43 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scootertrog View Post
Testing my rotors for warpage (I'm getting a nasty brake pulse/grabbing when rolling up to a stop sign), I purchased the Clamp-On Dial Indicator from Harbor Freight Tools. I normally don't buy "precision tools" from H-F, but this particular item seems to get pretty good reviews. Anyhow, am I reading this correctly at .0055"?




The rotor service limit spec on my bike is 0.3mm, or .012". Looks like I am OK here, right?
After all this , yes you're OK.Guess was having trouble typing and counting my fingers at the same time.
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Old 04-13-2013, 12:29 PM   #21
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Also wrong adding in the 1 from the small dial because it isn't past it yet. The OP either rotated to zero with quite a bit of preload or the indicator is junk, as you'd expect that needle position from around .9 on the main dial, not just past zero. Either way, it's only total indicated runout that we're intereste in here.

I concur, it .0055"

Also, setting zero at the lowest point is valid because you're measuring total indicated run out that way. Setting it at a medium "datum" would still give the same numbers (assuming you zeroed with some preload and watched for the negative values), but what you did is spot on.
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Old 04-13-2013, 12:41 PM   #22
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if we're gonna pick fly shit out of the pepper it's prolly .0056

and if you got .013 on the other it's out. question is.... is it a thickness issue? (doubt it), bent rotor... mebby, or can the rotor be shimmed true

has the rotor been off? if so maybe a removal & cleaning of the hard points will get you back in limits

put it on a plate of glass & see if it's bent
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Old 04-13-2013, 01:13 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beezer View Post
if we're gonna pick fly shit out of the pepper it's prolly .0056

and if you got .013 on the other it's out. question is.... is it a thickness issue? (doubt it), bent rotor... mebby, or can the rotor be shimmed true

has the rotor been off? if so maybe a removal & cleaning of the hard points will get you back in limits

put it on a plate of glass & see if it's bent
Thickness is about .4mm, well within spec. Rotor has not been off, it is about 4-1/2 years old. The rotor pad area has been scotch-brited and cleaned, and the bobbins rotated freely and cleaned. The rotor carrier bolts are really tight, but at this point it wouldn't hurt to take the rotor off and check it on a plate - seems I've done just about everything else anyway, lol.

Just to be clear, I set the dial travel about 1/2 way into it's range before contacting the rotor, then rotated the dial face to zero when the lowest spot on the rotor was found, thus the measurement you see in the photo is total runout.

Thanks everyone for your input!
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Old 04-13-2013, 02:12 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joexr View Post
.....Oh and that's 1.055 by the way.

What in the fuck are you talking about?

EDIT: Nevermind...
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Old 04-13-2013, 05:54 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scootertrog View Post
Thickness is about .4mm, well within spec.
4mm I could believe, but .4 sounds a little thin.
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Old 04-13-2013, 06:08 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by troidus View Post
4mm I could believe, but .4 sounds a little thin.
Yep, you're right, my screw-up there, lol. All these ......... and mmmmmmms get to me after awhile.
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Old 04-13-2013, 06:22 PM   #27
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Cool2

I would make more than one measurement (radius-wise) and also would estimate the difference between extreme deflections rather than setting the dial to zero.

Your hand can introduce an error in the support while twisting the marker to zero.

Your measurement is above the limit only 0.030 mm, which is nothing.
I believe your pulsations are not due to that but to bad disc surface, bad pads, frozen parts, etc.

Use a micrometer to determine the rotor parallelism and to measure rotor thickness.
If the rotor thickness is below the minimum thickness, it must be replaced.

Ten rotations of your dial are one inch.

Dial's specs:


Graduations 0.001 in.
Indicator type Dial
Range per revolution (in.) 0.1 in.
Resolution (in.) 1 in.

lnewqban screwed with this post 04-13-2013 at 06:27 PM
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Old 04-13-2013, 06:47 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lnewqban View Post
I would make more than one measurement (radius-wise) and also would estimate the difference between extreme deflections rather than setting the dial to zero.

Your hand can introduce an error in the support while twisting the marker to zero.
The indicator set-up was a clamp-on type, the clamp was attached to the bottom caliper rib and seemed to be pretty steady. I know things need to be steady here, so I tried my best. I am confident that I got a good measurement.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lnewqban View Post
Your measurement is above the limit only 0.030 mm, which is nothing.
I believe your pulsations are not due to that but to bad disc surface, bad pads, frozen parts, etc.
That's what I thought too, but pads were new-ish, removed and sanded with 200-grit to exposed fresh meat. Carefully re-bedded per Galfer's instructions. Disc is clean enough to eat off, lol. Brake calipers were completely taken apart and cleaned as well. Did a complete re-bleed of fluid. Also double-checked the fork mounting heights to make sure they were equally above the top clamp. The ONLY suspect anomaly I have found thus far is the run-out measurement.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lnewqban View Post
Use a micrometer to determine the rotor parallelism and to measure rotor thickness.
If the rotor thickness is below the minimum thickness, it must be replaced.

Ten rotations of your dial are one inch.

Dial's specs:

Graduations0.001 in.
Indicator typeDial
Range per revolution (in.)0.1 in.
Resolution (in.)1 in.
Thickness is very close to original spec and still good. I've got a replacement set of rotors on order, I'll update this thread on the results of installing them.
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Old 04-13-2013, 08:58 PM   #29
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rotor bolts are probably in with a thread locker so some heat is in order.... also an impact if you can lay hands in one
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Old 04-14-2013, 07:47 AM   #30
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Yes to the micrometer. I did one like that a couple years ago, sure found it uneven in thickness. Caliper readings were "in specs" but they average over an inch or so.The micrometer way is much better.
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