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Old 09-19-2013, 08:15 AM   #61
rstott
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Got my risers yesterday. I had to move both RH and LH cables outside of the tree. They look great and the bars will now be in a better position for me. I am 6ft with a RDL seat which sits me a little higher.
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Old 09-20-2013, 02:07 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by rstott View Post
Got my risers yesterday. I had to move both RH and LH cables outside of the tree. They look great and the bars will now be in a better position for me. I am 6ft with a RDL seat which sits me a little higher.
I'm installing mine and have moved both sides outside the triple tree. Right side brake hose seems the become somewhat pinched or doubled up when at full right lock. The pinch is right where the hoses come out from under the tank. Anybody else have that?
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Old 09-20-2013, 07:51 PM   #63
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When I put my Wunderlich up and back risers on the bike I tried moving the brake line just to see how much of a difference. It what you are reporting. No way would I ride the bike that way. Luckily I didn't need to as the lines are JUST long enough for my risers.
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Old 09-20-2013, 08:21 PM   #64
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When I put my Wunderlich up and back risers on the bike I tried moving the brake line just to see how much of a difference. It what you are reporting. No way would I ride the bike that way. Luckily I didn't need to as the lines are JUST long enough for my risers.
Unless there is a better way to do it I won't ride that way.
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Old 09-21-2013, 05:57 AM   #65
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Originally Posted by seatec View Post
Unless there is a better way to do it I won't ride that way.
I have the 40mm block Rox risers on my GS LC. Chris Olin of Rox and I worked on the installation at the MOA rally and concluded that the right brake line should be outside of the forks but also zip tied to the frame. There's a hole in the frame there just right for a zip tie.

I've got a set of his adjustable risers now but haven't had the time to install them. I think they may go on with the cables inside the forks.
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Old 09-21-2013, 01:16 PM   #66
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How did you tighten the riser up to the tree? I only have regular torx socket and that won't work. No clearance
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seatec screwed with this post 09-21-2013 at 02:44 PM
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Old 09-21-2013, 06:04 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by seatec View Post
How did you tighten the riser up to the tree? I only have regular torx socket and that won't work. No clearance
No room for what? I easily tightened mine.
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Old 09-21-2013, 06:53 PM   #68
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You must have yours pivoted pretty far away or towards you to to have plenty of room to use a torx driver. I have mine pivoted almost straight up so I don't have any room.
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Old 09-23-2013, 07:14 AM   #69
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See my problem?!
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Old 09-23-2013, 07:42 AM   #70
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See my problem?!
Show me a photo form the side. I am betting a low profile torx would do it.

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Old 09-23-2013, 09:29 AM   #71
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I ordered a set of torx wrenches that are short enough the clear the rox risers
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Old 09-23-2013, 04:13 PM   #72
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Old 09-23-2013, 06:34 PM   #73
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Looks basically like mine. Move the bars back and tighten the front bolts until you can barely knock the bars forward into place. Then tighten the rear ones using the Torx at an angle as snugly as you can get them without slipping the Torx. This will be more than tight enough.

Check this out: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=243096

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Old 09-24-2013, 06:56 AM   #74
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Got my pivoting risers today. Fitted to my LC but no test ride yet. The pulling on the cables especially the brake cable is worrying.

I have them tilted towards me with just enough room to properly socket tighten and the handlebars are tilted in a little more inboard. The hand guard to screen gap is a little wider so the bars are about the same distance from me as OEM.

I have removed the cable tie from the brake & data cable on the right side and I think it is ok. Will not be able to come any more inboard though without re routing the cables on both sides. Should be ok.

Looking fwd to test rides and adjustments. I am pretty sure I will be clearing a lot more car mirrors now in the daily traffic filtering.
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Old 09-24-2013, 08:57 AM   #75
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You can get ball-end torx bits and L wrenches that let you get in at an angle.
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