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Old 04-16-2013, 09:56 PM   #16
team ftb OP
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awesome replies guys thanks for the responses. looks like it will be a timesert. now just to figure out how to to drill the hole straight with one arm and hand in a cast.
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:15 PM   #17
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For a temporary/permanent fix, why not just use a longer bolt and put a nut on the backside? If you don't have the time sert kit, they can be anywhere from 40-300 dollar ( the latter a big sert kit for spark plugs)

Good luck
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:40 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by team ftb View Post
just stripped a m6 screw that holds on my ktm muffler. I obviously need to redo the threads to enable another m6 bolt to be utilized. easiest way is a helicoil. however on the muffler that will be removed a few times per year is the helicoil reliable enough?

another option is a nutsert. trouble is I don't own the tool. can I install these nutserts with a rivet gun?

give me insight into what would be the best solution given my situation.

thanks heaps. apologies for no caps and not a wealth of info but the arm is in a cast and only have one finger typing at the moment.
There are threaded inserts for sheetmetal that install with an ordinary pop rivit gun. They tend to be the smaller sizes. The bigger ones need The Tool---looks like a pop riviter but has a threaded pull rod. Metric would be a special item.

Timesert kits cost a lot more than Helicoil. They have some advantages (strength) and disadvantages (you can't stack them easily). You want the Timesert drill, it does a special hole (it's counterbored)
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Old 04-17-2013, 04:52 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by team ftb View Post
awesome replies guys thanks for the responses. looks like it will be a timesert. now just to figure out how to to drill the hole straight with one arm and hand in a cast.
If you are drilling out a stripped hole, drilling straight is a non-issue unless you are really uncoordinated. The original hole will guide you prefectly. I have done about a hundred stripped valve cover threads on aluminum before and never used any kind of guide. The hole is the guide.

Jim
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Old 04-17-2013, 04:55 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
+ 1 on Timeserts.

These are hands down the best if the easy options that I have used.
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:09 AM   #21
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+ 1 on Timeserts.

These are hands down the best if the easy options that I have used.

+2. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


No wonder I do not like flying ..........the plane is held together with helicoils
Time to get aviation on the time-sert band wagon.
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Old 04-17-2013, 02:14 PM   #22
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+2. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


No wonder I do not like flying ..........the plane is held together with helicoils
Time to get aviation on the time-sert band wagon.
Perhaps there is a reason they use helical inserts?
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Old 04-17-2013, 04:02 PM   #23
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Helicoils work well as long as they are installed properly.

A helicoil must be installed below the surface. The top end has to be seated down in a full groove so it will lock itself in place. The installation tang has to be broken off and removed. Most helicoil problems occur because of faulty installation.
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Old 04-17-2013, 07:39 PM   #24
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Well for me...

I always install my Helicoils with Castrol Power RS 4T and ONLY on bikes running Michelin tires.
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:41 PM   #25
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I always install my Helicoils with Castrol Power RS 4T and ONLY on bikes running Michelin tires.
And?
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Old 04-18-2013, 04:54 AM   #26
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What air pressure are you running in those Michelin tires?
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:22 AM   #27
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What air pressure are you running in those Michelin tires?

Nitrogen and dyna beads...........
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:47 AM   #28
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Nitrogen and dyna beads...........
Nitrogen is so last year, I have moved up to Argon. It has a covalent radius of 106pm... blah, blah, blah...

Point is, hopefully obviously, that here are many solutions to this problem and like tire and oil threads a lot of huff without much real result past the basic information.
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:44 AM   #29
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Another blasphemous suggestion is that 1/4" is 6.3mm, you may be able to get by with going with a 1/4" bolt and running a tap into your boogered threads as they are, your spacers may have that much extra clearance in them.
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Old 04-20-2013, 06:16 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttpete View Post
Helicoils work well as long as they are installed properly.

A helicoil must be installed below the surface. The top end has to be seated down in a full groove so it will lock itself in place. The installation tang has to be broken off and removed. Most helicoil problems occur because of faulty installation.
Helicoils are great. Fact remains that there are lots of brands of inserts and some mfgs make more than one style or material as it is only logical for the variety of situations for where they're used. You have to use what works for that situation. It might be one of several choices or one certain choice.
I chime in on these thread repair threads often & say the same things but my point is not opinion, just reality. Sometimes I choose based on what is available w/o buying a whole box or paying shipping on a tiny piece. I used "Thinserts" for my last repair. Some of the ebay sellers do smaller quantities.
Fact that your repairing a frame tube makes me wonder how the threads were built into the frame? Say/show more?
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